NIgor

NIgor

Member
Hello!
I have quite many problems with my p38. biggest is air suspension. It won't raise or it won't raise enough. Front right corner was only one which raised and i think it didn't raise enough, when i compared it to L322.

I tried to leave it running door open for 10min but it didn't help anymore, it helped in november and before.

It gives lots of fault codes and some codes disappear and others come on. When i clear fault codes it usually gives only cannot lower FL FR RL RR.

FL FR RL RR signal incorrect
Cannot lower FL FR RL RR
FL FR RL RR valve stuck closed
FL FR RL RR valve stuck open
Inlet valve stuck closed
Exhaust valve stuck closed
Inlet valve stuck open
Exhaust valve stuck open
Air supply fault
Air supply leak
Pressure signal constantly high
Pressure signal constantly low
Vehicle speed fault
Target heigts incorrect


And other problems are srs airbag light. Autumn it started once or twice and code was same one but now when i try to clear it it comes back in 30sec- 5min. Fault code is "Pass. airbag module open cct."

Also tachometer don't work, it worked in summer sometimes but not after it. And it gives "alternator fault" Sometimes. I have changed alternator twice and checked cables back of it.

And it also gives some times transmission fault, but everything is working fine.
And it also started to burn fuse 15 "20amp" Courtesy lights, handset receiver, loadspace light, rear wiper, sub-woofer, rear audio system amplifiers

I wonder if all or lot of those faults are connected to each other like bad ground some where?
P38 range with 4.0 v8 and automatic transmission, 1998
 
Wow, that's a tough start to the year!!!
How good is your battery?
Start with your compressor,
If you look through the range rover section for technical archive (at the top), there is a guide on checking some of the EAS system that could give you some starting points.
Good luck;)
 
NIgor said:
Hello!
I have quite many problems with my p38. biggest is air suspension. It won't raise or it won't raise enough. Front right corner was only one which raised and i think it didn't raise enough, when i compared it to L322.

I tried to leave it running door open for 10min but it didn't help anymore, it helped in november and before.

It gives lots of fault codes and some codes disappear and others come on. When i clear fault codes it usually gives only cannot lower FL FR RL RR.

FL FR RL RR signal incorrect
Cannot lower FL FR RL RR
FL FR RL RR valve stuck closed
FL FR RL RR valve stuck open
Inlet valve stuck closed
Exhaust valve stuck closed
Inlet valve stuck open
Exhaust valve stuck open
Air supply fault
Air supply leak
Pressure signal constantly high
Pressure signal constantly low
Vehicle speed fault
Target heigts incorrect


And other problems are srs airbag light. Autumn it started once or twice and code was same one but now when i try to clear it it comes back in 30sec- 5min. Fault code is "Pass. airbag module open cct."

Also tachometer don't work, it worked in summer sometimes but not after it. And it gives "alternator fault" Sometimes. I have changed alternator twice and checked cables back of it.

And it also gives some times transmission fault, but everything is working fine.
And it also started to burn fuse 15 "20amp" Courtesy lights, handset receiver, loadspace light, rear wiper, sub-woofer, rear audio system amplifiers

I wonder if all or lot of those faults are connected to each other like bad ground some where?
P38 range with 4.0 v8 and automatic transmission, 1998
Click to expand...

I take it you are using EASunlock, that is bad comms with the ECU. You cannot have the same valve stuck open and closed at the same time. Get good idle and try again.
 
wammers said:
I take it you are using EASunlock, that is bad comms with the ECU. You cannot have the same valve stuck open and closed at the same time. Get good idle and try again.
Click to expand...
Hello wammers, i agree, the program can be a bit erratic just like our buses!!:p
 
I'm using lynx evo. If i use force commands should i open inlet or exhaust valve? Which one lets air flow to airsprings or reservoir?

I just charged battery, but today i will try another battery.

Thanks for help!
 
NIgor said:
I'm using lynx evo. If i use force commands should i open inlet or exhaust valve? Which one lets air flow to airsprings or reservoir?

I just charged battery, but today i will try another battery.

Thanks for help!
Click to expand...

That explains it then. The inlet valve allows air to flow from tank into fill gallery through NRV2, which is sealed at one end by exhaust valve. Opening of corner valves then sends air to bags. Exhaust valve allows air to flow out though NRV3 to atmosphere through fill/exhaust gallery to lower bags. NRV 1 seals air in tank. NRV2 prevents air flowing from bags into empty tank if inlet valve and corner valves are opened to raise car with no air pressure in tank. NRV3 prevents high pressure air from forcing past exhaust valve when compressor is filling tank.
 
NIgor said:
Hello!
I have quite many problems with my p38. biggest is air suspension. It won't raise or it won't raise enough. Front right corner was only one which raised and i think it didn't raise enough, when i compared it to L322.

I tried to leave it running door open for 10min but it didn't help anymore, it helped in november and before.

It gives lots of fault codes and some codes disappear and others come on. When i clear fault codes it usually gives only cannot lower FL FR RL RR.

FL FR RL RR signal incorrect
Cannot lower FL FR RL RR
FL FR RL RR valve stuck closed
FL FR RL RR valve stuck open
Inlet valve stuck closed
Exhaust valve stuck closed
Inlet valve stuck open
Exhaust valve stuck open
Air supply fault
Air supply leak
Pressure signal constantly high
Pressure signal constantly low
Vehicle speed fault
Target heigts incorrect


And other problems are srs airbag light. Autumn it started once or twice and code was same one but now when i try to clear it it comes back in 30sec- 5min. Fault code is "Pass. airbag module open cct."

Also tachometer don't work, it worked in summer sometimes but not after it. And it gives "alternator fault" Sometimes. I have changed alternator twice and checked cables back of it.

And it also gives some times transmission fault, but everything is working fine.
And it also started to burn fuse 15 "20amp" Courtesy lights, handset receiver, loadspace light, rear wiper, sub-woofer, rear audio system amplifiers

I wonder if all or lot of those faults are connected to each other like bad ground some where?
P38 range with 4.0 v8 and automatic transmission, 1998
Click to expand...
Just regarding the airbag my mate had same problem and it turned out to be a bad connection in a block under the drivers seat
 
Yesterday was first day of the year when was sunny and roads started to melt. And also first day when air suspension worked!! (almost) o_O I was meant to move car a little bit but then i noticed that lift button light was blinking as it should. car raised to normal height. but when i tried to raise it off road position it went to fault mode. Well it might need calibration, because rear was bit much higher than front.

I will check connectors under driver seat, because it would be nice to have working air suspension every time :)
 
I meant for the SRS airbag on the steering wheel,that was the connection under the seat,sorry didn't make that clear
 
wammers said:
Connector under seat has nothing to do with steering wheel bag. I is for the seat bags.
Click to expand...
Oh ok,well you know what landys are like you mess with one bit and it does something else lol, I'll get me coat
 
Last edited:
Airbag fault was loose connector behind glove box. Just opened and closed the connector and then i cleared fault codes it hasn't come back.

Also alternator fault, tacho meter and air suspension started working after i tried to change instrument panel which didn't help but i noticed that there was loose connector also because when i touched left side connector instrument panel went black. And i also opened those two connectors under fuse box which come from engine to becm, and also opened ecm connectors.
I also noticed strange thing before cleaning connectors air suspension worked when gear stick was low range "D". And when i pushed it to neutral or park air suspension went straight to fault mode. When moved back to D it started working...

I don't know where those problems we're but was just corrosion in connectors, but still i couldn't see any green connectors.

Few faults left, when car is shutdown but key is in position 2 it says alternator fault sometimes.
Keeps blowing fuses 6: Rear view mirror dip, automatic gearbox ECU,
sun visor illumination, transfer box ECU
and 15: Courtesy lights, handset receiver, loadspace
light, rear wiper, sub-woofer, rear audio system
amplifiers

When it started to blow fuses i smell burning plastic in car, but i couldn't found any marks of melting, i'm not sure but i would say it came from trunk...

Which explains why i get transmission fault message when i shutdown car.
I put bigger fuse so i could fast open tail gate and test rear wiper, both seemed to be working.

And also today my L322s side light stopped working :D Fix few faults and more come.
 
Last edited:
NIgor said:
Airbag fault was loose connector behind glove box. Just opened and closed the connector and then i cleared fault codes it hasn't come back.

Also alternator fault, tacho meter and air suspension started working after i tried to change instrument panel which didn't help but i noticed that there was loose connector also because when i touched left side connector instrument panel went black. And i also opened those two connectors under fuse box which come from engine to becm, and also opened ecm connectors.
I also noticed strange thing before cleaning connectors air suspension worked when gear stick was low range "D". And when i pushed it to neutral or park air suspension went straight to fault mode. When moved back to D it started working...

I don't know where those problems we're but was just corrosion in connectors, but still i couldn't see any green connectors.

Few faults left, when car is shutdown but key is in position 2 it says alternator fault sometimes.
Keeps blowing fuses 6: Rear view mirror dip, automatic gearbox ECU,
sun visor illumination, transfer box ECU
and 15: Courtesy lights, handset receiver, loadspace
light, rear wiper, sub-woofer, rear audio system
amplifiers

When it started to blow fuses i smell burning plastic in car, but i couldn't found any marks of melting, i'm not sure but i would say it came from trunk...

Which explains why i get transmission fault message when i shutdown car.
I put bigger fuse so i could fast open tail gate and test rear wiper, both seemed to be working.

And also today my L322s side light stopped working :D Fix few faults and more come.
Click to expand...

I thought this was a P38?

What's the battery condition like? Lots of spurious faults together with the ALTERNATOR FAULT sounds like volts are low. P38 hates low volts. If you have a short-circuit or drain then that will pull the battery down. Other popular reason for battery drain is the old type of RF receiver getting interference from weather stations and the like.

Fusebox under the bonnet is usual place for burning smells. I think bonnet is hood and boot is trunk in American.
 
Yeah this is about p38 which is my second car. My main use car is L322.
It feels like battery is draining quite quick. Maybe i just disconnect rf receiver since key fob doesnt work and it is useless in my use. I started to think maybe it burns fuse 15 because there is some problems with amp or sub... i dont use audio system so i could disconnect those also.

I measured volts and when car is running its 14.4 even when i turn on blower, lights and hi-beam. when off it was something like 12.3v
It was -27 degrees and smell was inside the car. I'm sure it didn't smell outside.
 
NIgor said:
Yeah this is about p38 which is my second car. My main use car is L322.
It feels like battery is draining quite quick. Maybe i just disconnect rf receiver since key fob doesnt work and it is useless in my use. I started to think maybe it burns fuse 15 because there is some problems with amp or sub... i dont use audio system so i could disconnect those also.

I measured volts and when car is running its 14.4 even when i turn on blower, lights and hi-beam. when off it was something like 12.3v
It was -27 degrees and smell was inside the car. I'm sure it didn't smell outside.
Click to expand...

14.4V is OK for charging. 12.3V sounds low for the battery though. I'd use BrianDSE's 2 fob trick to cure RF issues.

After market radios are notorious. Don't know about the flashy amps in the boot as mine's a budget model. I know the DSP amps tend to fail but never heard of them burning. @martyuk is the electrical genius but I think he might be working away from home at the moment.

Have a good sniff round the fusebox in the bonnet. It tends to burn the tracks underneath, I think.
 
I am away working at the moment, and not back home properly until the start of April...

I'll have a think and see if I can come up with anything, but if you are getting fuses burning out, and smell in the cabin, then I wouldn't be surprised if there's a damaged/shorting wire somewhere which is causing it.
A 1998 will have amplifiers in the doors, rather than anything in the boot - unless it's aftermarket in which case who knows! I'll have a dig and see if I can find anything in common between the 2 fuses that are failing and other things in the vehicle.

I would check the normal things like behind the radio/under cigar lighter for pinched/shorting wires as they are easy to catch.

I'll see what else I can some up with when I have had a bit of a look through the electrical manual....
 
Just a moment ago when i tried to start it battery was empty.
I took subwoofer off from trunk since it is broken anyway.
But car wont start anymore, when i try to start i can just hear a click, maybe starter is freezed? It’s over -20 degrees.
I charged battery and i gave more boost from another battery
 
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