gti power

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looking to start removing my a/t box tomorrow on my 4.0 p38 any one offer advise etc?
im told to expext this to take a few days im doing it on the drive with a compressor(little faster) anyone found easy ways to go about this?
im planing on dropping the box,transferbox & diff all as one can anyone advise? could i unbolt the box from the transfer and leave the transfer box up inthe transmition tunnel on stands?
also im told the torque convortor is a pain to re-aligne?
 
I have never taken one of these out but what i can advise is make shure you fit a new flexi plate before putting the gearbox back in. There cheap and its a box out job to fit one if it goes later. (Don`t ask how i know)
 
I have never taken one of these out but what i can advise is make shure you fit a new flexi plate before putting the gearbox back in. There cheap and its a box out job to fit one if it goes later. (Don`t ask how i know)

Sound advice my flex plate gave up on the M6 at 80 mph shattered and bits ended up everywhere smashed the crank sensor and on it went so for a few quid replace it - I had trouble getting hold of one and ended up buying it from Atlantic British in the states. hope this helps
 
The first thing to remember is that if the vehicle sits still for to long the suspension will settle to the bump stops, not good for access once the box is repaired.

My advise would be to get the Rangey as high as possible, use car ramps under all the wheels then use wooden chocks through the ramps to stop the motor rolling off the ramps or have one pair facing the opposite direction so the stops hold the wheels (remember no transmission, no hand brake). If you only have one set of ramps use them under the rear wheels. Now raise the suspension as high as possible and place wooden blocks between the bump stops and the chassis then lower, you now have a safe vehicle to work on.

I'd drain all the transmission oils then remove the transfer case from the transmission before trying to pull the auto trans, pull the auto box with the torque converter as a complete unit. You will have to replace it like this due to possible damage caused the transmission input drive/oil pump if you don't.

A 4x4 style transmission assembly shape does not make it easy to control plus they can be very very heavy once you are underneath them. I'd also recommend that you use at the very least a trolley jack to try to support the weight of the box, plus 2 other people to help control the box and jack. A transmission can easily break an arm or hand if not controlled (if you can hire/find someone with a floor transmission jack, beg or pay to use it).

Pulling a transmission on these vehicles is not fun from underneath without a 4 post ramp, but can be be done with great care and consideration, before unbolting anything, ask yourself what could happen if you get it wrong, it will hurt you.

Remember to control/support the engine while removing the trans as you have also removed the rear mounting for the engine.
 
With help, I would remove the transfer box first before attempting the gearbox. with the engine lowered at the back to facilitate the box clearing the underbody, be prepared for a gush of ATF from the torque convertor. As per previously written-yes, change the flexplate and check the condition of the starter pinion gear whilst you are at it. With the transfer box off, golden opportunity to check & service the handbrake assembly. Dont forget to match mark the propshaft flanges before unfastening.
 
done it today took bout 7hrs with the use of an impact gun lol,on drive just jacked rear up on stands was no too bad of a job will get it looked at over next few day.
not sure what this flexi plate is that you guys mentioned?pic's?
 
Connects the torque convertor to the crankshaft-bit like a thin flywheel with the starter ring gear on it.
 
Assuming its a 4.6 Automatic, the drive plate-if you want to change it-is part no.FTC 4607 @ £22.33 incl. VAT (Genuine) a spurius alternative is FTC 4607P @ £18.28 incl. VAT from Rimmer Bros. If you need it, the starter ring gear is no. 603340 @ £40 + VAT from Craddocks, Cannock.
Hope this helps.
If you need any more info....just shout.
 
Assuming its a 4.6 Automatic, the drive plate-if you want to change it-is part no.FTC 4607 @ £22.33 incl. VAT (Genuine) a spurius alternative is FTC 4607P @ £18.28 incl. VAT from Rimmer Bros. If you need it, the starter ring gear is no. 603340 @ £40 + VAT from Craddocks, Cannock.
Hope this helps.
If you need any more info....just shout.
sorry mines a 4.0, i work in cannock so could collect from there.not sure i will need one but a guy mentioned his shattered after re-fitting box and wrote of sensor's etc:eek:
 
Right...... checked on the EPC and the drive plate details are the same for the 4.0 as the 4.6, so the part details mailed previously are correct.
 
right got one cost me £20 lol,would you fitthe the torque convertor then the box or fit the torque convertor to the box and lift in to gether?
 
I would fit the convertor to the box first ensuring that the drive shaft is aligned and after the box is in position and a couple of bolts are holding it to the engine, fit the convertor to drive plate bolts from underneath through the access space where you removed the small plate at the bottom of the bell housing. Full refit procedure is on RAVE. Remember that the convertor has probably lost a fair bit of ATF and it wont fill until the engine is running. Keep topping the level up-pain in the ass throught the dipstick tube-whilst moving the gearstick through all the gear range with engine idling and handbrake ON until level is correct. Allow engine to get cold and repeat procedure until level is correct. Gearbox oil level should be checked when COLD.
Did you check the handbrake condition?-easy to get at whilst everything is out. Likewise easier to get the grease gun on the prop shaft U.J's as well.
Good luck........let us know how you get on.
 

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