WayneRR4x4 said:

According to most of the feedback I've had across a few forums, the threads will be destroyed if I try to take them off in the traditional way.

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Mark Piercy said:

I did one recently, maybe just lucky. I used plenty of wd40 and repeatedly backed off and tightened gently. Also had to do the gearbox cooler in the same fashion.

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Mark Piercy said:

If changing just the pipes! How about a dremel or air grinder to cut the nut then chisel it open enough to budge the fittings or at least allowing oil to run into the threads a little?

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wammers said:

Nuts can be removed by cutting and splitting for sure, have done it.

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wammers said:

cases

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wammers said:

Nuts can be removed by cutting and splitting for sure, have done it.

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Mark Piercy said:

If changing just the pipes! How about a dremel or air grinder to cut the nut then chisel it open enough to budge the fittings or at least allowing oil to run into the threads a little?

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wammers said:

The pipe is sealed with an O'ring no oil can flow out until nut is backed off.

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Mark Piercy said:

To allow the penetrating oil to run into the thread wammers B-)

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Dean Whittam said:

if the threads do come out with the bolt and theres enough metal on the mating parts could you not drill and thread them and fit helicoils to repair the threads ive done a few alloy cast iron and steel thread repairs with helicoils and all are still working perfectly well , as for those O rings dont use ****part only use genuine otherwise youll be doing it again and again ive been there done that several times and after fitting the oem no leaks at all now .

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