Pete, if there's leaks on the underside of the valve block, you're unlikely to find them while its inside the housing. First check is definitely to unplug the EAS timer, and wait overnight.

It's a bit of a pain, but the best air-leak test without bench testing is:
  • Deflate & disconnect the pipes.
  • Remove block from housing.
  • Turn valve block 90deg so all th solenoids are horizontal
  • Reconnect airline pipes & re-pressurise the system
  • Then you can spray the soapy water on all the seals, top, bottom & sides.
 
I've told matron about my issues in group sessions. She said someone should tell me where the leak is. So. Where is it ?:cool:
 
I've got a plan. I'm starting to get stuff in order. As I've done on other topics, thanks to you all. I can't get at the airlines which are nailed to the topside of the the nearside chassis. I can feel them but they're wrapped in some kind of protective sheathing.I'm reluctant to disturb them as only one stands to be duff with two others ripped out unecessarily. Obviously, I've got sight of the front plumbing, drier and exits from the valve block. As it's the nearside rear in question I intend to disconnect the line both ends and loosely plumb it with a length of new pipe. I've got the rad out at the moment performing surgery on the drainplug and replacing the Alternater, tensioner and idlers. When I can fire it up again and that's behind me I'll do the delay-pull and overnight vigil. Then, if that's positive I'll pull the valve block and recheck my work as above. I know I can bridge the relay to lift the suspension but, I want nothing else on my plate when it comes to sorting the suspension.Now, the order of the weekend is: home brew, scribble on the telly, car boot sale, Sunday lunch out or in the home, home brew, more scribble on the telly, see how my stuff's doing on you know where to finance this overhaul. Monday wait for the idler to come that I didn't order because matron didn't tell me there were two, clipping the grass around the caravan in the meantime. No wonder I've got some kind of syndrome !
 
if the compessor keeps cutting in and out is the pressure cut out switch faulty and not cutting out at the right pressure or cutting in too soon?
 
I hope not. I've just replaced it brand new. Knowing my luck, though. If it comes to tipping the valve block on its side, I'll switch it back if all else fails. I've got a plan. Thanks for the hint.
 
Now THAT'S a plan. I'm chairman of the escape committee. I'll suggest it at the next meeting. The only trouble is, no-one can remember why we're there.
 
Done that. Replaced air line from valve block to rear nearside bag. That's the valve block O rings & diaphragm, airline & bags replaced. As soon as I take the key out after lifting to extended and the pump stopping, the chattering kicks in and the nearside drops to about a couple of centimeters below offside. I measured before leaving yesterday afternoon and on return this morning precisely the same distance from hub centre perpendicular to arch. On all corners to boot. I'll do the block thing again today and make some for highway and extended. Then, my next step in this masterplan will be to drive it into the bay. I probably won't get it in on account of all the other previously discarded P38'S.
 
If the counts side to side are too far apart then people have had issues. The height sensor arms haven't been bent in the past?
 
supapete said:
Done that. Replaced air line from valve block to rear nearside bag. That's the valve block O rings & diaphragm, airline & bags replaced. As soon as I take the key out after lifting to extended and the pump stopping, the chattering kicks in and the nearside drops to about a couple of centimeters below offside. I measured before leaving yesterday afternoon and on return this morning precisely the same distance from hub centre perpendicular to arch. On all corners to boot. I'll do the block thing again today and make some for highway and extended. Then, my next step in this masterplan will be to drive it into the bay. I probably won't get it in on account of all the other previously discarded P38'S.
Click to expand...

This must be done on level ground. Bits side to side are very important on front.
 
That makes sense. I did a few years of pretty severe off roading in my game keeping days. It may be that I'm concentrating on each of my issues in focus and haven't noticed it so much till now. It's the downside of road camber into the bargain. In truth, there have been leaks all over the place but only enough to kid me there isn't . Soapy water comes out frothy so I've hypnotised myself into wishful thinking. I've been tipped off about hasty parts ordering prior to logical diagnosis, but, another donation to Island's holiday fund is coming off methinks. Can these sensors be replaced singly, in pairs or altogether? Just my luck ! The tide's out. Damn.:mad: But, many thanks for the lightning response. Regs. P.
 
Sounds to me that if it self levels a "few cm" and then stays at that height overnight then you've probably fixed most of the leaks. Leaning over on flat ground implies it needs calibrating rather than new sensors ?
 
No need to post in "what did you do today" thread. I'm a block makin and a calibratin. Yep. Beats making lampshades in Matron's handicraft sessions.
 
pwood999 said:
Sounds to me that if it self levels a "few cm" and then stays at that height overnight then you've probably fixed most of the leaks. Leaning over on flat ground implies it needs calibrating rather than new sensors ?
Click to expand...

Mine's an early one. In the right (wrong?!) position it can happily self-level down overnight. Usually it doesn't move or only moves a bit. I had it on axle stands with no battery on for 3 weeks and it barely dropped a mm. Only way to exclude self-levelling is take the delay timer out or disconnect the battery.

The lean is a bit more interesting. Maybe put the missus on a diet?
 
You suggest she goes on a diet! I'll show her your post at visiting hour. I've done the block thing and,of course, all's level from side to side. I get the sensor heights and write them in. Get it off the blocks and it reverts to a list to port. The sensor heights as read/got are now different. I can level the whole thing up by being creative but the analogue readings have to be between 5 & 9 apart cross axle. I've spirit levelled with a batten from bottom rim to bottom rim before starting. The clattering and dropping has stopped and the damn thing is looking like butter wouldn't melt anywhere near it. I seem to recall seeing an instruction somewhere saying cross axle readings, as opposed to hub/wing, should be within 2. Any pigs ears here? Tell the wife to loose weight. Blimey.You're my hero.
 
The expect bit count differences between Left-Right are in the EAS SID on Page8 & 14.

Page-8

Screen Shot 2017-07-18 at 14.44.06.png


Page-14

Screen Shot 2017-07-18 at 14.41.57.png
 
supapete said:
You suggest she goes on a diet! I'll show her your post at visiting hour. I've done the block thing and,of course, all's level from side to side. I get the sensor heights and write them in. Get it off the blocks and it reverts to a list to port. The sensor heights as read/got are now different. I can level the whole thing up by being creative but the analogue readings have to be between 5 & 9 apart cross axle. I've spirit levelled with a batten from bottom rim to bottom rim before starting. The clattering and dropping has stopped and the damn thing is looking like butter wouldn't melt anywhere near it. I seem to recall seeing an instruction somewhere saying cross axle readings, as opposed to hub/wing, should be within 2. Any pigs ears here? Tell the wife to loose weight. Blimey.You're my hero.
Click to expand...

Cross axle sensor readings should ideally be within 2 bits side to side, more importantly at front. With sensors set so, actual heights as measured, can be within plus or minus 7 MM. So with height sensors set at standard for instance and within 2 bits side to side the nearside could theoretically be plus 7 MM and the offside minus 7 MM. Giving a 14 MM difference side to side. If when sat on blocks at standard height and the bit count is greater than 2 side to side either the sensors can be wriggled on their mounts to try and get within 2 or the sensor with the highest readings connecting bar can be flexed to shorten it. But that is being really pedantic.
 
I can live with pedantic. I've been known to be creative. Now I've got the spec, thanks again to you guys, that's what I'll be. Are we talking new sensors here, really? I got a real mixed bag of readings on the acquired height page and even conjoured up a 35mph owing to wrong target height. Again, though, I can't thank everyone enough mainly for the education. Regards. P.
 
pwood999 said:
The expect bit count differences between Left-Right are in the EAS SID on Page8 & 14.

Page-8

View attachment 127705

Page-14

View attachment 127704
Click to expand...
That's really kind and helpful posting that. Often a "look in rave" is posted. I've got RAVE and do look in it. Trouble is, until you get the ground level understanding that you chaps share, the level is just simply beyond a layman. I 've got the manual on cd and RAVE on my hard drive. Searching, reading absorbing and learning is another thing entirely. It's like someone asking me how to carry out a function editing a documentary or preparing a sound track. "look in the comic" just serves to bewilder. Who doesn't like instant gardening? Isn't that what forums are for to an extent?
 
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