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6704nathan

New Member

• Mar 20, 2011

• #21

also i have done this conversion! unbolt the vac pump the cam sprocket retaining bolt is different either change but only if you have timing tools as there is no keyway on the shaft or grind the small lug off will make sense when you see it.
also if you have done what i did and got a small flange engine you can have the 994 pump turned down to fit the hole by an engineering shop or use the mechanical part of the small flange pump with the electronics from the original 994 pump but it will have to be calibrated by an injection pump specialist.
as i have done all of this myself any questions give me a shout!

 

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B16FUN

Active Member

• Mar 20, 2011

• #22

The inlet manifolds are both alloy but the BMW one is different so I'll be using the Rangie one. Cheers Seanmull!
In terms of the vibration damper mcapinha, I presume you're talking about the little one at the front of the engine attached to the auxuilary drive belt tensioner? It looks to be the same between the two, hope that helps?

 

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B16FUN

Active Member

• Mar 20, 2011

• #23

Hi Nathan, sorry if this seems a bit daft but I don't intend on removing the pump at all as I do not have access to any timing gear to reset the pump timing if I were to remove it. Other than switching the very top part of the pump to the one from the Range Rover for the electronics the whole BMW engine is going into the Range Rover (apart from the ancillaries).
Also, it if isn't a straight forward job of just blanking off the vacume pump on the front of the BMW engine then I'll just leave it on.

 

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6704nathan

New Member

• Mar 20, 2011

• #24

problem when changing the top part of the pump is it is set up with the finest tolerance and even a 10th of a mm will make a diff.
get it to far the wrong way and it will rev its nuts off till it goes bang to far the other way and throttle response will be so soft you wont be able to pull away!
so good luck!
as for vac pump take it off the blanking plate from the rangie will have a small lug that hits the center bolt of the cam chain pulley grind a little off and fit the plate this is what i did to mine 6000miles later no problems!

 

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seanmull

Active Member

• Mar 20, 2011

• #25

nathan is correct about the pump i have changed two tops and it takes time and patience to get it correct but it can be done. if you had the pump removal tool it might be a good idea to use the rangie pump

 

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seanmull

Active Member

• Mar 20, 2011

• #26

hmm nathan i had forgot about the lug on the blanking plate lucky somebody is awake

 

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markowl

New Member

• Mar 20, 2011

• #27

hi there is the rr engine ok apart from the pump if so when you take it out i wood be intresterd in buying it as my engine is nakerd but my pump is ok

 

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B16FUN

Active Member

• Aug 29, 2011

• #28

Ok, so, nearly nine months later and I've finally finished the engine swap! I had the engine in a while ago but then found that the starter motor was knackered. So, I replaced that and then found the in tank fuel pump was knackered, so I have now replaced that and ... it runs, beautifully! It idles perfectly and revs with no problems to the red line and it has no fuel leaks anymore. As such I just wanted to say thanks to all those that have helped me along the way with advise on here!
Andy.