The top one is indeed just a swivel pin in a plastic bush. On the old ones I removed, one pin was like a pryck in a bucket and fell out. The pin on the new ones was a very tight fit and would take a good pull to get it out. Not sure anything holds it in other than vacuum. It needs to be able to move in and out to allow for collet adjustment to centre the drive shaft and manufacturing tolerances of the yoke.
 
Datatek said:
The top one is indeed just a swivel pin in a plastic bush. On the old ones I removed, one pin was like a pryck in a bucket and fell out. The pin on the new ones was a very tight fit and would take a good pull to get it out. Not sure anything holds it in other than vacuum. It needs to be able to move in and out to allow for collet adjustment to centre the drive shaft and manufacturing tolerances of the yoke.
Click to expand...
ok so i somehow did something insanely hard by accident, yes.

Ill guess ill order 2 new balljoints.
One happy news is that i did manange to get the old collar out with the saw :)

its atleast going forward, and gosh how great thoose taper joint tools are...
upload_2022-7-2_20-46-49.png
 
Ok so, an update. Everything went on track until, the axle height is impossible to adjust. It does not move,

ive done as the peeps has said, torqued the top nut to 110, then adjusting the collar for the axle height, but it does not do much…. It actually twists the lower boot abit..

Do i need to have the allen key in the ball joint in order to hold the joint still to adjust the collet?
Ive done just as youtube has.. (work on p38)

this is so exhausting to not progress when its done by the book
 

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Okay so ive done it 10 times now, the axle height is not moving upwards by me turning the collet. I guess i need a new swivel hub?
 
Here you can see the flange is all the way at the bottom, rubbing the lower side. Collet is no more adjustable
 

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Here you can see how far up the collet is, i am unable to tighten it more..
 

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synchro said:
Here you can see how far up the collet is, i am unable to tighten it more..
Click to expand...
So, either the swivel or collet have a dimensional problem allowing the taper to go too far into the collet. I can't think of any other reason why the alignment should be that far out.
 
I'm trying to picture the set up in my mind as I forget things not long after I've done a job and I've done this job with no issues. I would first check both balljoints are fully home then rotate the drives haft and see if it moves up down side to side as it rotates. If it does you may have a bent drive shaft or axle tube or a damaged cv or I may be talking crap.
 
Flossie said:
I'm trying to picture the set up in my mind as I forget things not long after I've done a job and I've done this job with no issues. I would first check both balljoints are fully home then rotate the drives haft and see if it moves up down side to side as it rotates. If it does you may have a bent drive shaft or axle tube or a damaged cv or I may be talking crap.
Click to expand...
Not crap
 

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Flossie said:
Any updates you poor suffering 38 owner @synchro
Click to expand...

Sadly not.
I dont progress with it.
The collet does not adjust the heigth of the axle at all.
I've tried selling it for 1500pounds for 2 weeks but it aint gone yet... Needs an MOT otherwise in good shape really... just need to fix the trans leaking (plug) and its coolant leaking out the engine warmer. Also 2 rear seat buckle recievers.
 
It's a wonderful car to drive and all, so i mean idk. I might just try to fix it up now as its not been sold for 2 weeks. 1500 pounds is a bargain, ii even had included nanocom and many special tools and spare parts...
 
The ball joints are seated correctly, all the way trou untill the ring stops it protruding.

I used a sledgehammer getting the swivel off the first time, i guess i have bent
A: Swivel hub
B: Axle tubing/casing where balljoints are seated

I suppose the swivel hub is bent due to my sledgy time?
Usually the weakest part/link takes the beating first, so i suppose that would be
Balljoints->Swivel Hub->Axle casing?


Sooo i should try to aqquire a swivel hub again i suppose.
My motivation has been 0 after it all derailed…
I really do miss driving the thing tho, its a bad ass car, not the typical yaris on the street..

Even got 2 speeding tickets on it, explains more about me than the car i suppose :D
 
synchro said:
The ball joints are seated correctly, all the way trou untill the ring stops it protruding.

I used a sledgehammer getting the swivel off the first time, i guess i have bent
A: Swivel hub
B: Axle tubing/casing where balljoints are seated

I suppose the swivel hub is bent due to my sledgy time?
Usually the weakest part/link takes the beating first, so i suppose that would be
Balljoints->Swivel Hub->Axle casing?


Sooo i should try to aqquire a swivel hub again i suppose.
My motivation has been 0 after it all derailed…
I really do miss driving the thing tho, its a bad ass car, not the typical yaris on the street..

Even got 2 speeding tickets on it, explains more about me than the car i suppose :D
Click to expand...
A sledge hammer:eek: You might be in for a new axle if the yoke is bent:eek::eek::eek:
 
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