TAKdriver

TAKdriver

Active Member
I really do know how stupid I have been ...OK ?
The Background :
Looked like alternator failure : non-starter : battery flat : in an underground dark secure carpark with pillars hard beside the door. Tried jumpers ...no success ...Ended up putting a new (borrowed )battery in and working in the dark....I reversed the polarity !
Much black smoke and a crazy couple of days trying to work out how to get it out of the carpark and home.
Wiring harness frazzled.
Present Situation
I have sourced a new identical loom (from Emmots) and fitted a new alternator. Local Indy is fitting the wiring harness. There is no obvious blackening at the fusebox.
Question : Any hints about additional damage I may have done down the line ?
 
With much luck you wont have fried BeCM or other ECUs

One of the longest threads in Landyzone history was by a member called Neo2 he shorted at the fuse box and had an epic hill to climb!
 
Saint.V8 said:
With much luck you wont have fried BeCM or other ECUs

One of the longest threads in Landyzone history was by a member called Neo2 he shorted at the fuse box and had an epic hill to climb!
Click to expand...
I see from an old thread that you are an archer : compound or longbow
 
I shoot both....

I have 2 Longbows....a 55lb@28" Bickerstaffe and a Paul Reid 50lb@28"

My compound is a Hoyt Contender Elite 2011 model with Cam 1/2 eccentrics, Truball 3 release, Freakshow Rest, Bieter long rod and twins, Blackhawke scoped sight...she is wound into about 57lb at my draw length with a 70% let off.
 
I saw a picture of the inside of a BECM which had the battery connected backwards and it wasn't a pretty sight. However, hopefully the fuses have protected it and it is OK.

I think it's going to be a case of waiting for the new loom to be put in and then seeing what doesn't work and then working through each issue one-by-one.
If it has turned the BECM into chargrilled components, then I have spare boards etc if you need any parts for that. The vehicle identity and programming *should* still be recoverable too.

Hopefully you've had a lucky break and it's just the wiring loom/fuse box at the most.

You say there isn't any blackening at the fusebox, which is probably a good sign.... Does it smell burnt though?

Marty
 
Good luck but a word of caution...

The reason the loom melted was that systems it was connected to were drawing far too much current when the reverse voltage was applied. Now provided this was not due to internal short circuits caused by component failure within them, you should be fine. But if the short circuit condition is still there, you could end up frying your new loom once you reapply the power.

I would spend time checking the other systems, ECUs, BECM etc carefully for any visible damage - internal and external first. Sniffing them to check for a burnt smell is the first step.

If all seems good, it still may be worth applying power with some fuses removed to units and gradually replace them keeping an eye on the current draw of each circuit as you introduce it.
 
Saint.V8 said:
I shoot both....

I have 2 Longbows....a 55lb@28" Bickerstaffe and a Paul Reid 50lb@28"

My compound is a Hoyt Contender Elite 2011 model with Cam 1/2 eccentrics, Truball 3 release, Freakshow Rest, Bieter long rod and twins, Blackhawke scoped sight...she is wound into about 57lb at my draw length with a 70% let off.
Click to expand...

I was on longbow and packed in a couple of years ago when I did my back in. I still have two longbows : a Bickerstaff at 60lb and one made by a lass in the Borders in Scotland whose name I forget. It's at 55lb. If you know anybody who needs/wants one they could have them at a sensible price.
 
Zigzagsky said:
Good luck but a word of caution...

The reason the loom melted was that systems it was connected to were drawing far too much current when the reverse voltage was applied. Now provided this was not due to internal short circuits caused by component failure within them, you should be fine. But if the short circuit condition is still there, you could end up frying your new loom once you reapply the power.

I would spend time checking the other systems, ECUs, BECM etc carefully for any visible damage - internal and external first. Sniffing them to check for a burnt smell is the first step.

If all seems good, it still may be worth applying power with some fuses removed to units and gradually replace them keeping an eye on the current draw of each circuit as you introduce it.
Click to expand...

I'm in the hands of my local indy. They're good people but not RR specialists. I suspect that they won't have enough RR experience to go through the sensible process which you suggest. I'm going to be needing some luck here and it sounds as if it could be a long and expensive job.
Thanks for the advice.
 
martyuk said:
I saw a picture of the inside of a BECM which had the battery connected backwards and it wasn't a pretty sight. However, hopefully the fuses have protected it and it is OK.

I think it's going to be a case of waiting for the new loom to be put in and then seeing what doesn't work and then working through each issue one-by-one.
If it has turned the BECM into chargrilled components, then I have spare boards etc if you need any parts for that. The vehicle identity and programming *should* still be recoverable too.

Hopefully you've had a lucky break and it's just the wiring loom/fuse box at the most.

You say there isn't any blackening at the fusebox, which is probably a good sign.... Does it smell burnt though?

Marty
Click to expand...

Thanks Marty. I think that praying is going to be one of the inputs when the new loom goes in. I'll report back.
 
domino said:
Speak to Seton Engineering just outside Longniddry :)
Click to expand...
I don't know them. Are they RR specialists or just leccy wizards ?
Main problem will be of course that I can't get the car down to them.
I'll report back when everything gets back together.
 
Saint.V8 said:
With much luck you wont have fried BeCM or other ECUs

One of the longest threads in Landyzone history was by a member called Neo2 he shorted at the fuse box and had an epic hill to climb!
Click to expand...

Time to buy a lottery ticket :
I have the RR back with new ( 2nd hand) alternator, new (2nd hand) wiring harness and a new battery.
When they were all connected up she fired up without a warning light in sight ( except usuals about windows not set etc..). Not even a fuse needing replaced.
The first thing I notice is that the speed of cranking is vastly improved. Is it possible/likely that the alternator has been slowly dying over a period of time and finally gave up the ghost while the car kept running on the battery ? I ask partly because I would not have expected a five year old battery to need replacing unless the failing alternator has done for it.
( I haven't got the bill yet but it's cheaper than another car......I hope.)
I know that you have all been worrying for me and thought I should report back to let you guys get some sleep at night.
 
Def get a lottery ticket if you still had a good battery after five years turning a large diesel engine
 
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