Done it but I think I would follow the manual when troubleshooting to make sure everything is factory spec. The part everyone forgets is the shim under the cam locking tool on higher mileage engines because it is in a different section from the FIP timing. I'm sure it makes a difference.
If you can get the modulation within plus or minus 20% of where it should be using the dial gauge method, you are a better man than me or anyone else I know that have done the modulation that way.
 
If you can get the modulation within plus or minus 20% of where it should be using the dial gauge method, you are a better man than me or anyone else I know that have done the modulation that way.

I don't recall it being that hard. I did nip it up and then rotate the engine and check it again 3 times before finally tightening all the way. The major issue for me was my small torque wrench wasn't reading correctly and I partially stripped one of the bolts and had to use Loctite to save it. Lesson learned: calibrate your torque wrenches regularly.
 
Please enlighten me :):)
PM me with an Email address and I'll send you the info. For my method you have to have the FIP within a working range to start with but it enables the setting of the modulation accurately to 50%.
 

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