Another update , So finally managed to give it a good run , alas soon as I hit 50mph it went into limp mode

Pulled over and read codes

P0234-00 (68) Turbo/supercharger overboost condition

Turned engine off / on , ok coming home under 50mph

Pulled onto drive and noticed the engine was hunting , went to have a look at the turbo actuator arm, noticed it was very slightly moving

I did free it off months ago, must have been around jan/ feb so I’m thinking if it’s sticking again , I’ll also buy some Wynn’s VVT cleaner to put in the tank , will need to find something better to spray the actuator as been using GT85

Looks like I’ll need to get the actuator wire out again and give it another spray , plus at the end of the day if It ever did need a new turbo I think it could write the D3 off as I expect that would be a £2,500 job

However what else could I buy for £2,500 , lol, but then there’s what garage would be able to do it as I know for one I wouldn’t be able to fit a new turbo

As always many thks for putting up with me waffling
 
Plus going to put some turbo VGT cleaner into the tank, choice between Wynns and Forte

also wondering if white lithium grease might be the best thing for the actuator arm , or does someone have a recommendation please

Then seeing it’s such a sod to get to am wondering if there’s a grease gun with something like a 2 x foot hose etc

many thks
 
gstuart said:
Plus going to put some turbo VGT cleaner into the tank, choice between Wynns and Forte

also wondering if white lithium grease might be the best thing for the actuator arm , or does someone have a recommendation please

Then seeing it’s such a sod to get to am wondering if there’s a grease gun with something like a 2 x foot hose etc

many thks
Click to expand...
Sorry to see your ltest problem after all the work you have put in. I guess you have already seen this?
 
PopPops said:
Sorry to see your ltest problem after all the work you have put in. I guess you have already seen this?
Click to expand...


hi mate

bless and indeed seen that , have ordered a grease gun and some white lithium grease as I’ve been using GT85 and personally think with it being very thin doesn’t stay on the actuator arm long enough , so just hoping the lithium grease will be more suitable, plus it’s for high temperature

fingers crossed I don’t have to go down the turbo replacement route , have looked and can get a fully reconditioned one for around £600 , getting it replaced I imagine would cost around 2k as I assume many garages would simply lift the body off , just a shame by back wasn’t in a better shape as would have done it myself

oh and ordered some JLM lubricants diesel VGT turbo cleaner as it’s supposed to be very good and save me messing around as it just goes in the fuel tank, not keen on the other type that u spray in the air Inlet , supposed to take longer doing it that way

Handy as I’ve only got around 1/4 tank , plus don’t fancy nearly spending £200 to fill up the tank, lol

refuse to let it beat me, just my sodding back drives me nuts in restricting me in what I can/ can’t do

sorry I’m waffling again , lol, many thks
 
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so looks like one of my neighbours is keen to sell his battery grease gun , will chat with him later how much he wants

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/224841580271

Have spent some time looking at these extension kits https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/334093989717

noticed the majority of these extension/ adaptor kits are for manual grease guns only , assume they can’t handle the higher pressures that battery ones produce

plus link for the VGT cleaner

https://www.jlmlubricants.com/en-gb/products-additives/jlm-diesel-turbo-cleaner



6C7E27F2-78CE-462D-9C9C-207BF0B0FADE.jpeg
 
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Grease specs below alas couldn’t find one solely for VGT actuator arms, unless someone’s know if there is please , would be very grateful

Will of course update with Some live data of how I get on

thks again and as mentioned am so grateful

2D1E6DA9-86A0-4A75-B3C8-770938E9F0BC.jpeg
 
Quick update , So been researching the cost of getting a brand new genuine turbo fitted as to be honest it’s dam right dangerous when into limp mode kicks in , particularly whilst driving on a motorway etc

Just feel due to it not being a 5 x minute job don’t really wish to go down the reconditioned route

will of course update this thread after I’ve looked into it, etc , plus I’ve also got to get new rear lower wishbones , tie bars, , MOT and find the leak on the AC system

@lynall , hi mate , apologises asking but was it ur goodself that replaced ur AC compressor please , did a lot have to come off to gain access to it plse, many thks
 
gstuart said:
Quick update , So been researching the cost of getting a brand new genuine turbo fitted as to be honest it’s dam right dangerous when into limp mode kicks in , particularly whilst driving on a motorway etc

Just feel due to it not being a 5 x minute job don’t really wish to go down the reconditioned route

will of course update this thread after I’ve looked into it, etc , plus I’ve also got to get new rear lower wishbones , tie bars, , MOT and find the leak on the AC system

@lynall , hi mate , apologises asking but was it ur goodself that replaced ur AC compressor please , did a lot have to come off to gain access to it plse, many thks
Click to expand...
Hi, did you try the turbo cleaner & is turbo failure common ish on the D3 ? as I don't remember reading much about said failures (cranks yes).
I hope it doesn't come to replacing it after all the effort you've put in (I've got me fingers crossed for you), all the best.
 
gstuart said:
Quick update , So been researching the cost of getting a brand new genuine turbo fitted as to be honest it’s dam right dangerous when into limp mode kicks in , particularly whilst driving on a motorway etc

Just feel due to it not being a 5 x minute job don’t really wish to go down the reconditioned route

will of course update this thread after I’ve looked into it, etc , plus I’ve also got to get new rear lower wishbones , tie bars, , MOT and find the leak on the AC system

@lynall , hi mate , apologises asking but was it ur goodself that replaced ur AC compressor please , did a lot have to come off to gain access to it plse, many thks
Click to expand...

Ac comp right cock of a job
 
Andy Warren said:
Hi, did you try the turbo cleaner & is turbo failure common ish on the D3 ? as I don't remember reading much about said failures (cranks yes).
I hope it doesn't come to replacing it after all the effort you've put in (I've got me fingers crossed for you), all the best.
Click to expand...

hiya

Many thks , Must confess haven’t tried anything as of yet, however in the past have freed the actuator up along with lubricant but doesn’t seem to last very long before it goes into limp mode again

Think I have everything now, got that cleaner , lithium grease , along with a Milwaukee battery grease gun and an adaptor kit, small 90 degree , plus long extension tube , so I’m going to use my endoscope positioned above the actuator in order for me to inject the grease on both ends of the actuator arm as previously only sprayed the top one , plus made up a make shift tool from a wire coat hanger to allow me to move the arm back and forth

Plus after a lot of reading I’ll use my gap iid before I touch anything to check the VGT % movement , then recheck it as I move the actuator arm , have some figures which I hope will help to determine if the arm has full movement or not

know it sounds really sad but spent a lot of time trying to get as much info as possible , plus only ever used a spray which I feel is to thin whereas I’m hoping this lithium grease will be a big improvement , , ie, it actually staying on each ends of the actuator arm,

then log all the VGT % movement figures in stages to see if it matches what it should be

indeed fingers crossed I don’t have to replace it but is getting to the stage where the limp mode keeps happening, but will try everything I can before biting the bullet so to speak

Thks again
 
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gstuart said:
hiya

Many thks , Must confess haven’t tried anything as of yet, however in the past have freed the actuator up along with lubricant but doesn’t seem to last very long before it goes into limp mode again

Think I have everything now, got that cleaner , lithium grease , along with a Milwaukee battery grease gun and an adaptor kit, small 90 degree , plus long extension tube , so I’m going to use my endoscope positioned above the actuator in order for me to inject the grease on both ends of the actuator arm as previously only sprayed the top one , plus made up a make shift tool from a wire coat hanger to allow me to move the arm back and forth

Plus after a lot of reading I’ll use my gap iid before I touch anything to check the VGT % movement , then recheck it as I move the actuator arm , have some figures which I hope will help to determine if the arm has full movement or not

know it sounds really sad but spent a lot of time trying to get as much info as possible , plus only ever used a spray which I feel is to thin whereas I’m hoping this lithium grease will be a big improvement , , ie, it actually staying on each ends of the actuator arm,

then log all the VGT % movement figures in stages to see if it matches what it should be

indeed fingers crossed I don’t have to replace it but is getting to the stage where the limp mode keeps happening, but will try everything I can before biting the bullet so to speak

Thks again
Click to expand...

I think you will find it is not the actuator arm themselves that seizes up it is the vanes and linkages inside the turbo charger itself, Moving the arm only frees up the swept the area of soot using the vanes inside the turbo
If you look on YouTube quite a few people mainly Volkswagen owners have used Mr muscle oven cleaner to great effect
 
lynall said:
I think you will find it is not the actuator arm themselves that seizes up it is the vanes and linkages inside the turbo charger itself, Moving the arm only frees up the swept the area of soot using the vanes inside the turbo
If you look on YouTube quite a few people mainly Volkswagen owners have used Mr muscle oven cleaner to great effect
Click to expand...

many thks as always , funny enough read some of those reviews ref VGT turbos , hopefully I’ll be able to monitor the turbo over time whilst using the cleaner and grease to see if there’s any improvement

will try it over the next few months , if it fails I’ll then more than likely get the turbo replaced with a brand new one

since I’ve fixed all the intercooler leaks it drives really well to just under 50mph , anything above the limp mode will kick in, so in one sense is a big improvement from where it useto be by eliminating all the air leaks etc

Will be interesting to see how this cleaner performs as it’s supposed to be very good , including some feedback from VAG owners

thks again
 
Quick update

going in for its mot with my local garage on the 28th sep, very handy as my road tax runs on the 30th sep, lol
 
tyregeezer said:
Probably have an actuator here should this turn out to be your issue TY
Click to expand...

thks so much and very kind of u, alas turbo would have to come out to fit another actuator as it has to be calibrated

bless u though for the awesome thought
 
UPDATE

so looks like I may have resolved it and all the hard work has paid off , ( fingers crossed )

my mechanic who does all my servicing picked my disco up on the 28 th Sep , passed its MOT , yippie

he plugged in his scanner , no error codes , took it for a test drive, no vibration or limp mode

so after replacing all the turbo intercooler hoses plus T bolt clamps
Air inlet plastic pipe that attaches to the turbo ( this is a complete and utter pig to do )
New MAP sensor
Smoke tested intercooler system, resolved EGR leak
Tested all wires and connections of the ECM and engine loom
Greased turbo actuator arm, moved so it was free and using the gap iid, monitoring the % range is now 8 to 97 %, ( pics below at tickover watching the discos software program moving the actuator arm )
Put some turbo actuator arm cleaner on the fuel tank

will give it a good test run in the next few weeks

in the spring time I intend to replace
Rear lower wishbones
Rear tie bars
Discs , pads, calipers all round

have seen a kit , alas don’t know what ALLMAKES 4X4 / UNIBRAKES are like

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/275341482881

wondering as I’m going to fit my 19 rims next year if it’s worth fitting the larger V8 discs, I don’t tow so just wondering if there will be any benefit

Can’t thk everyone enough for the fantastic help , am over the moon and hopefully the hard work has paid off resolving this issue

95FFD4E7-A9E2-45CD-A885-3F79EEDF4F51.png
BB51B865-F823-42AF-A814-59DFD9D3E14A.png
 
think the grease will be better than the normal anti seize spray I used in the past , managed to get the red grease on both connection points of the arm using a long extension

FFB76CE1-3289-4A24-A31A-64E3ABCE7BEC.png
7219B5B7-9C77-472D-80B6-2CBBDE0EA60F.png
F958174A-ACA1-4319-9942-AAFB8F4BB708.jpeg
 
Plus almost forgot , 2023 my timing belt etc is due , gulp

will more than likely along with the belts , tensioners , aux belt etc , fit another new oil pump for peace of mind , did have the fuel belt replaced and wondering about leaving that , it was replaced 2016

don’t know how much genuine oil pumps are these days

Also had the water pump replaced when the belts were changed , might get that changed as well seeing there only £50.00
 
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Hi mate great work much patience and determination shown great job turbo side is the hardest area to work in, Changing the oil pump same time as the belts is something I would always recommend on tdv6 most belt failures are due to idler or tensioner failure. You can pick up a genuine fomco oil pump for around £150. I have been lucky with my electronics so far, most things have been plug and play, what diagnostic device would you recommend, i only have one of those Isoft, for d3.
 
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