indeed and seems it’s quite common for the TCM pins to turn green , has something to do with water ingress as it’s also known water can get into the pollen filter , water normally gets past the bonnet seal

Will use the smoke machine inside the cabin but then admittedly I thought how am I going to turn it off , my auxiliary fuse box cables pass into the cabin via the bulkhead , so I’ll put the smoke machine on top of the engine and push the smoke machine nozzle into the cable entry hole, that way I’ll be able to turn it off , plus not having to open any doors as that would indeed defeat the test

Think it will take a while to completely fill up the cabin area but have ment to do it for ages as got an annoying water ingress on the passenger side , but all the door seals etc are original so wouldn’t surprise me if it’s getting past there

Also didn’t realise all the doors have 2 x seals , plus did get a set of 4 x window seals last year , thought the best thing was maybe having my iPad handy and take a video so that way I can go back through it so can see where the smoke is escaping

once it warms up I’ll do that continuity test between the actuator and ECM , dreading it seeing there’s so many wires

thks again
You just need the colors and wire pin numbers.
 
Can you trace the wires from the associated pins to and from the turbo with the plugs off?

that’s what I’m hoping I can do, got a full wiring diagram so can see I’ve got 5 x wires on the turbo actuator and the colours on reading the wiring diagram

as always just a bit tight as need to lift the wiring loom out the way in order for me to gain access to the 3 x connectors right at the back

If I’m reading the wiring diagram correctly it looks like the Map sensor goes into the same terminal on the ECM as the turbo VGT + actuator

also have some thin back probes for my multimeter which will be handy , interestingly I found the post where the battery ground connects to, right at the back of the fuse box

thks again

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You just need the colors and wire pin numbers.

think the hardest bit will be identifying the pin letters and numbers on the ECM as see the wires go into the 2 x right hand ECM connections

also as there’s 3 x ECM connectors I don’t know which one is which as on the wiring diagrams there’s
C0411
C2518
C0872

but no hardship if there’s some wires that are use the same colour coding as can very easily just move my multimeter probe to each one

I’m so grateful to u and can’t begin to say how much I appreciate it , thanks so much

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Don't forget to unplug the map when you go to do a cont test. Also cont check the map connections to the ecu in the same manner.
 
Don't forget to unplug the map when you go to do a cont test. Also cont check the map connections to the ecu in the same manner.

awesome as must admit wouldn't have thought of that , bless u as that’s extremely helpful

Re looking at the wiring diagram I also see the trotted body actuator is tee’d into the turbo actuator circuit, H also goes towards the MAF and ECM fan

is it also worth disconnecting that please, many thks

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I can't see where it's tied into the turbo actuator?

apologies , on the wiring diagram shows SJ2 and SJ3 where the throttle actuator tees into the turbo actuator wires

It’s in the last pictures, J and K, throttle is in the 2nd picture

many thks
 
So, everything that is attached to the actuator wiring should be disconnected.
Check all the connections ie, Throttle body to ecm and actuator to ecm for continuity. Try bemdand moving the wiring harness to detect broken hidden wires.
Once you have continuity through all the connections then the problem itself could still rest at the turbo end. Is there anywhere it England you could have the actuator tested?
 
So, everything that is attached to the actuator wiring should be disconnected.
Check all the connections ie, Throttle body to ecm and actuator to ecm for continuity. Try bemdand moving the wiring harness to detect broken hidden wires.
Once you have continuity through all the connections then the problem itself could still rest at the turbo end. Is there anywhere it England you could have the actuator tested?

bless u, really appreciate this, thank u for helping me

Alas regarding the the actuator I haven’t looked into getting it tested , however when I turn the key off the actuator motors back and forth as part of the anti jam software program

apologises asking a daft question but what’s the reason please with removing the throttle body connector plse

thks so much once again
 
bless u, really appreciate this, thank u for helping me

Alas regarding the the actuator I haven’t looked into getting it tested , however when I turn the key off the actuator motors back and forth as part of the anti jam software program

apologises asking a daft question but what’s the reason please with removing the throttle body connector plse

thks so much once again
If it's tied into the tbo actuator and you checking for continuity you don't want any other source connected in case there is a false reading or wrong result. Remember, at this point your checking the wires only for breaks. ;)
 
If it's tied into the tbo actuator and you checking for continuity you don't want any other source connected in case there is a false reading or wrong result. Remember, at this point your checking the wires only for breaks. ;)

bless u and see where ur coming from , will of course update u when I’ve done the checks and not do anything else

thks again
 
Keep it simple dude.
Your more than welcome and if it helps, I'll be happy. :)

indeed and will ensure I don’t go down the rabbit hole so to speak but take one step at a time

Very grateful to u and will of course update u , many thks
 
Also been messing around with the gap iid, must admit didn’t realise u could do this , including stretching out the graph for finer detail

is from idle to 2,500 revs and back to idle

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Quick update

So managed to do some basic checks of continuity , did find on a smoke test the intercooler wasn't leaking , however on the throttle body even after fitting new O rings on the Egr pipes there was a smoke test leak

Suppose my next step will be to sort out those egr pipes, reinstall the TCM and ECM connectors , batteries and carry out a 5Vdc signal reference check on sensors, trouble is I won’t be able to gain access to the ECM after the battery is reinstalled , unless I use some jump leads , put the battery on the floor so I can still back probe the ECM connectors

I haven’t fitted the new air intake and intercooler pipes onto the turbo in case I need to gain access to the actuator’s connector , ie, when the battery is reinstalled

Opened up the looms going to the ECM connectors , didn’t see any bad wires

Did write out the wires I tested as reference

So that’s where I’m currently at and really hoping when I test the 5Vdc signal test on the various sensors something shows up as running out of ideas

Thks again

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Plus may i ask what are peoples opinions on these clamp type multimeter test probes that pierce the cables plse ,many thks

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Plus just a thought , I put the smoke machine on just the intercooler to ensure it didn’t have any splits etc , which it didn’t

however I put the smoke machine nozzle on one end and turned it on before blanking off the other end, smoke came out the open end extremely slowly , suppose I was expecting it to come out faster seeing the smoke machine produced quite a bit

just made me wonder if maybe the intercooler was partially blocked , but couldn't really tell how fast it should come out seeing I’ve not got another intercooler as a comparison
 

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