Thanks for the reply its got red coolant at the moment, not sure if any sealant has been added sometime previous.
It ticks over just fine but over heats after about 30 mins driving.

Is that driving at decent speed (cooling will be ram air, but will be compromised if the radiator is not working) or urban driving ( in which case assistance from the viscous fan will be needed, and so if it's not working, that's probably the problem). So yes, probably fan or rad - fan's quick to change over - rad's obviously a bit more of a faff. If they replaced the water pump then in theory they renewed the coolant, but they cd have poured the old stuff straight back in - it wd have been interesting to see the condition of what came out
 
Weird on mine had a custom made aluminium rad installed, it was the head that was cracked causing my overheating in the end, but I took the rad out and it was full of gunk partially blocked. Might be worth taking rad out see if it is full of crud as a matter of course?

After that the rad felt like it should heatwise, might not solve the problem but may help it cool it better?
 
Weird on mine had a custom made aluminium rad installed, it was the head that was cracked causing my overheating in the end, but I took the rad out and it was full of gunk partially blocked. Might be worth taking rad out see if it is full of crud as a matter of course?

After that the rad felt like it should heatwise, might not solve the problem but may help it cool it better?

This is the v8 so probably head gaskets gone. The sniff test has already been mentioned and I think someone mentioned pressure test. Other option is to bung some UV dye in the coolant and then see if it turns up on the dipstick.

Viscous fan and water pump or thermostat are the cheaper options you pray for.
 
Thanks everyone for the help and information that you have given i finally changed the bottom thermostat and the radiator, it nows runs great.
The next issue i need to sort out is the suspension it has springs on it at the moment but it seems to be sitting to high and it bounces and wanders all over the road is there a set hight of spring that would give me a decent stable ride.
Steve
 
Thanks everyone for the help and information that you have given i finally changed the bottom thermostat and the radiator, it nows runs great.
The next issue i need to sort out is the suspension it has springs on it at the moment but it seems to be sitting to high and it bounces and wanders all over the road is there a set hight of spring that would give me a decent stable ride.
Steve
A set of airsprings would sort it:rolleyes:
 
Forgive me im not mechanically minded if i look on ebay would i find them or should i just tell my mechanic air springs.
Steve
The P38 is supposed to have EAS and ride on airsprings. If your car has been converted to coils, unless you can DIY forget trying to convert it back.
 
The P38 is supposed to have EAS and ride on airsprings. If your car has been converted to coils, unless you can DIY forget trying to convert it back.
Ok thanks for that i might just give him the key's and say sort it out , is it worth putting it back to air suspension or is that asking for trouble.
Steve
 
Ok thanks for that i might just give him the key's and say sort it out , is it worth putting it back to air suspension or is that asking for trouble.
Steve
Defo revert it to eas.that's the way it's supposed to be.when a P38 is on coils IMO it has not been looked after by someone who knows the marque. or their "mechanic" has limited knowledge about it.
 
Defo revert it to eas.that's the way it's supposed to be.when a P38 is on coils IMO it has not been looked after by someone who knows the marque. or their "mechanic" has limited knowledge about it.
I was thinking about going down that route, is there a after market set up that doesn't suffer from the constant problems that was fitted originally.
 
I was thinking about going down that route, is there a after market set up that doesn't suffer from the constant problems that was fitted originally.
No its just down to maintenance and knowing what to do when things inevitably go wrong, plenty of help and information on here.
 
Would be costly for a garage to revert to air but very doable by DIY
 
I was thinking about going down that route, is there a after market set up that doesn't suffer from the constant problems that was fitted originally.
The EAS is reliable if maintained. I doubt that many garages would take on converting back to air. You need to look and see what components are still there, the EAS box under the bonnet should contain the compressor, valve block and driver pack. Under the passenger seat you should find the EAS ECU.
 
Ask your mechanic what they think. Some won’t touch EAS.
Because they think its witchcraft, just after I got mine an old friend asked if it was on air, his had developed a fault and the Main Stealers had put it on COILS!!! God help us if the stealers don't know / cannot be bothered to fix it. He said they charged him £2500 for the pleasure of ruining the ride.:eek: That was back in 1998.
 
Stealers fitting coils crikey Jim!?!
They have no way of knowing if they can actually get it done so likely to say no. Not easy to tell your customers we can try until you run out of money :eek:
 
Because they think its witchcraft, just after I got mine an old friend asked if it was on air, his had developed a fault and the Main Stealers had put it on COILS!!! God help us if the stealers don't know / cannot be bothered to fix it. He said they charged him £2500 for the pleasure of ruining the ride.:eek: That was back in 1998.

Too many fitters calling themselves technicians.
 

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