m.r.smith said:

Thanks Gav!!! Yeah that is very true!!!!! I think there must be some problem somewhere close to heating because the heating got worse its blowing out hot air when set to cold and it messes around constantly, giving hot and cold air when ever it likes, maybe theres a fault on thermostat too....
Gav you got huge amount of knowledge, how did you get all this experience? You'r really good!!!!

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i have very little knowledge as such, i only read and have read so many articles and posts on the liners and p38's in general. i am not any kind of mechanic although i have been around car repairs since my child hood(thats what you get from rough council estates and a stepdad with a fetish for buying ****e cars) and if you think logically there are only so many options open to you at any point! you can test the stat by putting it in a pan of just off the boil water, you should see it open, you should do this when fitting new too just to check it! i dont think its the stat tho, they usually stick open i think. prolly get corrected on that!! check it anyway then at least you can re bleed the system of air!!!

BigJock2005 said:

Hey gav, tell me how do reckon land rover managed to end up producing a block that can either do 60k and slip a liner and become a basket case, or do 170k with no bother? achieving that kind a quality variance is a bloody mystery to me.

Jock

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as john(irish rover) points out(or at least has to me) its prolly down to a number of things, maintenance bieng one of em.

mine has dealer service upto 120k and then it was serviced but the book was full so i have no trace of it. over the recent years, before my ownership it prolly wasnt done regular or properly, then the block gave up when a hose broke up and it overheated. it was happening to cars just a few years old but landrover refused to aknowledge it. i know a fella who used to reline blocks for a local landrover place under warranty. then after a while they just put new engines in!! told him it was cheaper to fit a new lump. didnt solve the underlying issue that the design was poor and the casting wasnt uniform. the other fact is that the ductile iron liners expand at different rates to the ally block, obviously this cause the liner to lose its grip and move with the piston. this should only happen when the engine has overheated, which they do if not bled correctly or thermostat goes or viscous fan etc etc!! that could explain the cars doing different mileage before failure, i suppose it all depends on circumstances!!

also, as far as i have seen there doesnt seem to be much holding the liner, i think there is a lip beneath the liner but there is a gap between the lip and base of the liner, coincidently the gap is roughly the same size as the gap at the top of the liner on the pic i posted. so prolly poor quality leads to big problems in the future!!!:doh::doh:

hi gav could not find any leeks in block seems to hold the water so have put new h/gs on and hoping one was faulty i know i am being opptermistic going to start it in an hour or so any body reading this say prays for me let you all know how it goes a bit later have to go now knees geting sore and need a cupper j

how did you test the block? ideally it needs to be hot(nigh on impossible diy) and under high pressure, dont forget the combustion pressure is considerably higher than the coolant pressure.

hi gav i put it in to get tested properly i hope ? stated it fri 10 mins great then same like a kettle boiling starts with steem then thows water out like its blocked also bottom of rad not getting hot should get result of test on lunch time if not going to put engine in next week having time out this weekend try get hesd round it j

sell it.

take the stat off and test it, just boil a big (ish) pan of water on the stove, take it off the stove and chuck the stat in.

also while its in bits, check that when you spin the water pump its free and also the correcponding pulley moves.

i never got steam out from anywhere, the cap could be shagged!!

well mines still drinking... level down to bottom of bottle this morning. it reeks of coolant sometimes, but can't find a leak, and oil and water both clean. will get the boys to check it at the next service.

its gotta be going somewhere jock!!! after my shinanagans with water etc i sympathise with anyone in these circumstances!

hi gav put hot water through therm it opened and let water run out. get result today one way or other let you know later how it going j

at work 2-10 so will have a browse then, good luck!!!

hi gav block got crack opens up when its hot just put iron tite in it see if that gets me over the nexed few weeks as i set out my court case against the bas.... that sold it to me. thanks for your help gav j

nice.
just bung it up and sell it.go buy a scrap car drive it through the guys house front door and buy a doisel disco...

no bankrupt him then kick the s... out of him or lend your chainsaw

was it sold as a second hand unit or recon, was it a firm or a private seller?

i would start saving for a replacement!!!

bought from car sales think ihave good chance and yes starting to save as we talk been looking around think we looking about £2500 to£3000 well **** happens i will send you a pm when i get it going fingers crossed j

if you can get a flanged block, as far as i can tell there is no way ever that the combustion gasses will come into contact with the coolant, except obviously head gasket, the only way the gasses can escape is by cracks, which shouldnt happen with rthe flanged liners, or rings into crank case, which lets be honest is not gonna happen very soon!

even if water does get past the liners, that irontite stuff should be plenty to seal the water galleries!

if it just keeps going till i can sort the ar.. ho.. out i will put new engine in it and then i can start enjoying my r/r and look forward to other thing going tits up