RangeRoller dt
Well-Sprung Member
Too much oil is worse than too little. Most I’ve seen keep it a little below the top mark.
Do the oil/water levels change at all?
Do the oil/water levels change at all?
It depends when he dips his oil. If oil is dipped hot it will always be higher up the dip stick. Oil is always dipped cold. Correct method of filling is, fill to just below full mark. Start engine and wait for oil lamp to go out. Switch engine off and dip, then top up to full mark.
RangeRoller dt
Well-Sprung Member
If empty I always fill to max mark and fill the oil-filter chamber so less chance of starvation on new cold oil.
Ok carry on, but if you ever come to own a garage do it my way. Then you don't get smart arsed customers coming back and claiming you have charged them for oil you have not put in.
RangeRoller dt
Well-Sprung Member
See your point, I get the luxury of checking it whenever I want. Not 15mins to do the job and someone complaining like it’s your responsibility to keep the level constant eternally
See your point, I get the luxury of checking it whenever I want. Not 15mins to do the job and someone complaining like it’s your responsibility to keep the level constant eternally
Had one customer bring his car in for a six monthly service. Told him to be careful as his oil level was at minimum. He said that was because i had not filled it properly six months before. The idiot had never checked his oil since the last service. All kinds of idiots own cars.
RangeRoller dt
Well-Sprung Member
Many people disregard oil levels. They don’t know which type, it’s more than a £5 and may even put it in the wrong place - fair enough. But Culture these days is if it’s wrong, who do I blame and therefore is responsible other than myself? Amount of people walk into the intro saying my 24”wheels have cocked up my Landy, does the garage I bought it off owe me free maintenance as 24” wheels aren’t suitable. I won’t let them change them as it’s the only reason I bought it
Many people disregard oil levels. They don’t know which type, it’s more than a £5 and may even put it in the wrong place - fair enough. But Culture these days is if it’s wrong, who do I blame and therefore is responsible other than myself? Amount of people walk into the intro saying my 24”wheels have cocked up my Landy, does the garage I bought it off owe me free maintenance as 24” wheels aren’t suitable. I won’t let them change them as it’s the only reason I bought it
There are moves afoot to ensure only qualified people work on vehicles. Mainly in Europe but that could spread here. Vehicles are being made that to a large extent preclude home maintenance. Some of the dickheads around the country and sadly some on here will hasten that outcome with their sheer incompetence. Thankfully i am fully qualified so i don't really give a toss. You can only advise you cannot force.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
As far as I'm aware the moves to stop DIY maintenance have been abandoned I'm pleased to say.
There are many dickheads working in garages purporting to be professionals.
This is true but many more working from home who only think they know what they are doing sadly. Lots on here in various sections.
mercanlandy
Active Member
Not quite. The oil level is static at approx 8mm above top mark on dip stick. At last oil change a bit to much was put in and I was to lazy to drop it again and refill. When I say it's running hot, it shows temp on guage as just above the center mark, which is higher than it used to run before all the recent new parts. The guage occasionally jumpes upto the red mark but then down again to near the middle. It is not showing water loss on the floor but ince cooled down you can get some water into header tank. The top hoses, especially the right hand side hose on the fuel pump side. I have tried two different stats now and this odd behavior is still there. I am checking the stat again and alao checking the rad has a baffle in the head and also the rolled papaper test on the new viscous fan. I just did 400 mile run, as sweet as you could want before it played up again so it is really a mystery at the momentSo..
It keeps overheating.
Oil level is rising.
Etc
And it's driven 'till it stops?!
Ahh!
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Drop some of that oil from the sump.
brianp38dse
Well-Known Member
Is the small hose from the left top of rad to expansion tank clear and putting a small trickle of coolant in to the tank, as it sounds like air locks
Or hairline crack in head.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Pessimist.
RangeRoller dt
Well-Sprung Member
Could just be temp sensor.
mercanlandy
Active Member
Right, I have drained the overfilled oil and refilled to the correct level. I have checkef stat opens in a pan of boiling water and it does. I have refilled the cooling system and believe I have purged all the air from the system. I have been on a 100 mile run around and all seems good regarding the tempreture now. No running hot and the temp gauge sat just slightly over the center mark on the gauge and never moved no matter how I drive it. However as I was almost home the engine surging at idle started again. As I take foot off throttle when coming to a stop the revs drop off to normal for a second them surge back up to about 1500rpm making it dangerous to drive and also a pig to select park as its trying to pull away being an auto 2.5 diesel, 1995 P38. I was thinking it may the the TPS failing. Just a bonus fault now the over heating seems to be sorted out.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Needs diagnostics.
mercanlandy
Active Member
Thought as much.
RangeRoller dt
Well-Sprung Member
Maybe but sounds more like dying FIP.
Nanocom06 diagnostics check for sure before spending on parts that may do nothing.
Nanocom06 diagnostics check for sure before spending on parts that may do nothing.
