No point in skimming my head due to the holes in it. See the hole in the pic of the head between the top two cylinders to the left of the valves. My head was beyond repair or use hence the new one.
That's true but I have never herd of land rover saying don't skim a head as they warp only resin I can think them saying not to skim is to sell you a new one
 
And did you ever get them presser tested and did the ones you done get hot as when they get hot they deform done 100s in my time and never had one come back for head gasket again
Nope never pressure tested any of them.
Reused the head bolts as well.
Still have two of them sat on my driveway, cars that is not the engines!

I always found the 300 to be a bit fragile compared to the 200.
 
Nope never pressure tested any of them.
Reused the head bolts as well.
Still have two of them sat on my driveway, cars that is not the engines!

I always found the 300 to be a bit fragile compared to the 200.
Best off look all I can say 300 crack heads and warp them all ways pressure test and if they pass skim them back flat and ues 3 hole head gasket
 
And yes head bolts can be re used

Why would you want reuse a TTY bolt, go to all the bother to do all that nice work & use the old cr@p bolts.
Yup people do I dont id rather spend the few extra quid as id probably snap the fookers putting them back in lol.
 
Why would you want reuse a TTY bolt, go to all the bother to do all that nice work & use the old cr@p bolts.
Yup people do I dont id rather spend the few extra quid as id probably snap the fookers putting them back in lol.
You can re use them twice if that's if there ok when cleaned up
 
Hi All,
New discovery for me today (not the car😴), I wanted to do a quick test, I took my wireless barbecue temperature sensor and stick it on the expansion tank. Cool gadget as I can read the temperature wirelessly on my phone. See photos.

Guess what the engine does not seems to warm up even if the gauge says otherwise.

What do you think? Except that I am crazy 🤪
 

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It's not the correct expansion tank for sure.
Is it perhaps not the correct sensor ?
There are two, a black one and a green one, the wrong one tells you your engoine is overheating when it's not.
Black is for the Defender & green is for the Discovery.

Also check the gauge is not earthed by removing the earth for the lamp, the gauge will only read correctly if the earth is via the sensor.
You also need a good engine earth.
 
Bet its a mismatch of the sensor, that's where my son's tdi conversion in his Ninety sirs on the temp gauge It isn't running hot. Would have been a good idea to check actuall temp earlier on.
 
good evening, another test today and I think I loosing coolant but I cannot find from where, I had to add about a liter of coolant today after driving 30´ and letting the car sit for 24h.

I know the expansion tank need to be changed but what about the piping down there. See photos.
 

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good evening, another test today and I think I loosing coolant but I cannot find from where, I had to add about a liter of coolant today after driving 30´ and letting the car sit for 24h.

I know the expansion tank need to be changed but what about the piping down there. See photos.
Take a phot of the pipe going into the bottom of the header tank.

Pipes look like power steering pipes
 
That is a header tank from a NA or 19j truck.
If you want to know the actual running temperature fit an aftermarket gauge that reads in numbers/degrees.
 
Dear All,

Finally the head is out :) no major struggles and all the bolts were easy to remove, that's a good point. I only found one point of "possible exchange" between the coolant and the oil, but I do not know if this will be enough to loose that much coolant.

Please let me know if you see anything else suspicious.

Furthermore, if you have the reference of a good head gasket kit I will be grateful.

I will poste further photo once the head is back from the workshop.

Have a nice sunday
Defender - 1.jpeg
Defender - 2.jpeg
Defender - 3.jpeg
Defender - 4.jpeg
Defender - 5.jpeg
Defender - 6.jpeg
Defender - 7.jpeg
 
the presence of rust shows in areas it shouldn't be in tells me that either it was a dud head gasket or a warped head from a previous overheating event

our brit in canada seems happy with the all steel gaskets

new bolts and you good to go again

the bores look good from the pictures as well

hope all works out well
 
Dear All,

Finally the head is out :) no major struggles and all the bolts were easy to remove, that's a good point. I only found one point of "possible exchange" between the coolant and the oil, but I do not know if this will be enough to loose that much coolant.

Please let me know if you see anything else suspicious.

Furthermore, if you have the reference of a good head gasket kit I will be grateful.

I will poste further photo once the head is back from the workshop.

Have a nice sunday
View attachment 302971View attachment 302972View attachment 302973View attachment 302974View attachment 302975View attachment 302976View attachment 302977
Sometimes you cannot see where the issue was, but a new gasket fixes it, slightly annoying as I like to see a failure point.

Head gasket I changed the other day, reused head bolts and took a guess at the torque figures @370nm.
Screen Shot 2023-11-16 at 21.15.52.png
 
Sometimes you cannot see where the issue was, but a new gasket fixes it, slightly annoying as I like to see a failure point.

Head gasket I changed the other day, reused head bolts and took a guess at the torque figures @370nm.
View attachment 302990
as least on yours you see the problem. not so easy on mine.

I am taking the head to a workshop to plan it.

so I will be hopefully good with it.
 

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