johnny curt 1

johnny curt 1

Well-Known Member
got a couple of questions wich i cant find the answer to in the search thingy and i need some help :eek: what jc askin fer help :faint2:

now me tratter appears to be running in nicely shes got all the power in the world like setting off in 2nd to 15 mph then into 4th pulling the trailer usualy weighing a good half tonne usually without so much as a faulter exept one thing

when i hit the amazing death defying mind boggling speed of 40mph shes screaming her bollix off and aint got no more revs ( believe me ive tried like fook )

now ive got 2 hoptions

1 get a ****ty old untested or broken overdrive i dont give a flying rats ass how bad it is as long as its cheap :) ( like the budgie ) :D:D

the question with this part is are they a twot to recon meself and are parts cheap enough to get hold of to do this

2 go for one of these high ratio transfer conversion thingemabobs ive been reading about

but the question lies whats that gonna cost me in graft fitting it and money buying the bloody kit

has anyone got any ideas wich would be the way to go or how much each would cost me to do :confused::confused:
 
Hi ratio box is going to cost £300.
You could get and rebuild an overdrive for a fair bit less.
But neither is going to be as cheap as 354 diffs.
 
i keep hearing mention of cheap overdrives - buggered if I could find one...ended up getting a roverdrive. I'm looking for another now, from what I've seen/read they look easy to rebuild and parts do seem to be available...if you see a good un for less than a couple of hundred I'll have one!

If you've got enough torque to set off low but not enough revs you might need to twiddle yer timing?

3.54 diffs work well but you might find that 3rd to 4th is too big a jump and you have to scream yer tits off to get into 4th on any sort of incline. same goes for high ratio box. 3.54s plus an overdrive is perfect as you can go from 3rd (which is like 3.5rd) to 3+OD which is like original 4th then use 4th and 4th+OD for fast!
 
i was toying with the 354 diff idea but i dont like the idea of having te split me axles to change the buggers over

the front axle i could do as i have done one before but the rear i havent got a clue about where to start in getting the half shafts out to get the splines outta the diff plus id like to put a new pan on the back one

so i was saving that job fer summer

i have got a source where i can get a shot to **** overdrive for about £80 - £100 that will need a refurb but i have to wait till the fella gets one in thats too far gone for him to make any money on after hes rebuilt it

its this deal that makes me ask are they cheap and easy enough to refurb myself as at this time of year and temperature id rather rebuild something small on the shed workbench than have to put me swimming trunks n snorkle on to go through a diff change and have no wheels for a couple of days while i do it :D:D
 
have you found a source for bits ,we were never able to years ago when we looked into them apart from bearings high gear teeth pit,rear diff is easy just undo drive memebers and pull out shaft a few inches ,you can also pour fresh measured oil through short side if you jack it up enough
 
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jamesmartin said:
have you found a source for bits ,we were never able to years ago when we looked into them apart from bearings high gear teeth pit,rear diff is easy just undo drive memebers and pull out shaft a few inches ,you can also pour fresh measured oil through short side if you jack it up enough
Click to expand...

ive found a chap that does all manner of series and deffender bits and sometimes breaks them but nothing goes to waste and if he cant get the part i need or hasnt got one he does point me in the direction of people who do

its good old fashioned customer service at its finest :)
 
ive also on me travels found an old boy in his garage at home and it dont matter what you bring him he will copy it and make yer a brand new one who i first used to get a new bull gear made for me raglan lathe

bloody genious he is :D:D
 
johnny curt 1 said:
ive found a chap that does all manner of series and deffender bits and sometimes breaks them but nothing goes to waste and if he cant get the part i need or hasnt got one he does point me in the direction of people who do

its good old fashioned customer service at its finest :)
Click to expand...
you tend to find all the same parts are worn in each ,though if any one can it wil be you jc:)
 
back axle on a SWB should take about 20 minutes. undo the 5/8" bolts holding the hafshafts in and slide em out, undo 4 propshaft to flange bolts and drop shaft, undo diff to axle bolts and drop the ****er on your head...reverse sequence with new gaskets if you can be arsed....no bearings or owt complicated.

If you've got a number/address for your overdrive mate give me a shout. For the Landy I've got for rebuilding next I'd got a budget of 200 quid for an overdrive, so if he's got one or any other bits I'll be interested

D
 
dominicbeesley said:
back axle on a SWB should take about 20 minutes. undo the 5/8" bolts holding the hafshafts in and slide em out, undo 4 propshaft to flange bolts and drop shaft, undo diff to axle bolts and drop the ****er on your head...reverse sequence with new gaskets if you can be arsed....no bearings or owt complicated.

If you've got a number/address for your overdrive mate give me a shout. For the Landy I've got for rebuilding next I'd got a budget of 200 quid for an overdrive, so if he's got one or any other bits I'll be interested

D
Click to expand...

he has a good one in at the moment but he wants £250 i think and im gonna fone him again when he starts up again after the crimbo break to see if he has any diffs going for a good rate :cool:
 
I had an o/d on my S3...bought it new with the Landrover in 1975,

It would have not be liveable with without over all these years but even thought I bought it new and looked after it...never ran it low on oil....they do leak and only hold around 0.75 pints,

But it was still a bit noisy...I fitted at 200di a few years ago and at the same time fitted the 3.5 diffs from the donor Disco I got the engine out of...the Landrover is so much quieter with the h/r diffs than the o/d...more or less the same ratio as the o/d was in high o/d 4th....sold the o/d then to a mate for £350,

Easy change if your used to that kind of job but not with out probs...I had to weld in 2 new diff oil filers as the new diffs had none....my old ones had the filer plug in the diff casing....also the speedo will under read by about 25%....I just took the glass off mine and put white dots of paint on the dial to show 10/20/30/40 ect mph it works a treat...had to work out the speeeds with a gps first,

I just fitted the rear diff at first...only a 1 hour job on the rear...the front is more time consuming....but you cant use 4X4 with odd diffs....I tried it in the heavy snow last year...the back end wants to over take the front...but it got me up a few hard p[acked icy roads till I had time to fit the front diff,

Cheap as chips compared to re-building an o/d which will prob still be noisy when done,

You do need an engine that will pull with the 3.5 diff though...my old 2.25d would have struggled...I would think a good 2.25p would be fine.

Nick.
 
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nickjaxe said:
I had an o/d on my S3...bought it new with the Landrover in 1975,

It would have not be liveable with without over all these years but even thought I bought it new and looked after it...never ran it low on oil....they do leak and only hold around 0.75 pints,

But it was still a bit noisy...I fitted at 200di a few years ago and at the same time fitted the 3.5 diffs from the donor Disco I got the engine out of...the Landrover is so much quieter with the h/r diffs than the o/d...more or less the same ratio as the o/d was in high o/d 4th....sold the o/d then to a mate for £350,

Easy change if your used to that kind of job but not with out probs...I had to weld in 2 new diff oil filers as the new diffs had none....my old ones had the filer plug in the diff casing....also the speedo will under read by about 25%....I just took the glass off mine and put white dots of paint on the dial to show 10/20/30/40 ect mph it works a treat...had to work out the speeeds with a gps first,

I just fitted the rear diff at first...only a 1 hour job on the rear...the front is more time consuming....but you cant use 4X4 with odd diffs....I tried it in the heavy snow last year...the back end wants to over take the front...but it got me up a few hard p[acked icy roads till I had time to fit the front diff,

Cheap as chips compared to re-building an o/d which will prob still be noisy when done,

You do need an engine that will pull with the 3.5 diff though...my old 2.25d would have struggled...I would think a good 2.25p would be fine.

Nick.
Click to expand...
dont need to be worrying bout me 2.25 diesel being able to pull it mate as its practicaly a brand new engine been fully rebuilt and rebored to 60 thou over :D
 
hey JC i remember a while back you having a problem with your injection pump on your 2.25 diesel do you still have the problem or not? if you do i have a solution for you i found 2 brand new not recon cav injection pumps and a load of bits and pieces all in sealed plastic with the wax paper on
 
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