B

Bofvonhookstinar

New Member
Hey all. I am replacing my rear hatch door and got a line on a decent used one for cheap but I cant open the door because they removed the wiring harness from the engine bay. :(
So... ya. Not sure how to feed power into the system. is there a way I can power just the rear section... or maybe pop the trim in back to actuate the door mechanics?
Any help would be great.
thanks you all. :)
 
Bofvonhookstinar said:
Hey all. I am replacing my rear hatch door and got a line on a decent used one for cheap but I cant open the door because they removed the wiring harness from the engine bay. :(
So... ya. Not sure how to feed power into the system. is there a way I can power just the rear section... or maybe pop the trim in back to actuate the door mechanics?
Any help would be great.
thanks you all. :)
Click to expand...
Hmm a reet problim :confused: i have driven the rear window down with a 12v small battery by connecting the window motor cables on rhs looking in [cable harness] if it try's to go up just reverse the polarity , well thats the first bit done, then you have to power the door realaese bit the wiring is in the same part. . . . .maybe sumwun else can help wiff that :)
 
Thanks Ming the Merciless :blabla:

I know the computer will stop the door from doing different things based on the window and such. So wasn't sure if I could just put power to certain wires and have it pop open.
 
There's a connector under the trim inside the door just over the RH rear wheel. You can put 12v there to make it go up and down. It'll be a bit tricky to get to without the opening the door.
 
Has it still got the handle on the door? If it has and you dont need it Im looking for one. Give me a shout if you want to sell it.
 
So I saw on another web site that one can remove the door panel while the door is closed. its a bitch I guess but can be done.
Is there a way I can remove the door lock mechanism from the inside of the door to release the door? has anyone ever had to work on there door lock mechanism on the rear/boot hatch/door?
 
Ok, so a little update. poured over my rave manual and thought i had what seamed to be the right wires on the right connector but alas nothing.
Are there any joes on here who are adept at understanding land rover wiring and ccu what not's?
It should be to easy. find the right hot wire, throw some 12v down it, (and yes I know the ground/earth also) then it should pop the release motor and whama bamma thank you mamma the door should open. To easy or so I thought. (the window on the donor's tail door is already down so no worries there, even though the goal is to bypass the computer compleatly since I cant put power to the freelanders power grid.)
 
Bofvonhookstinar said:
Are there any joes on here who are adept at understanding land rover wiring and ccu what not's?
It should be to easy. find the right hot wire, throw some 12v down it, (
Click to expand...
Reet then Earthling , had a werd wiff ma mutt ,Porky as e is a furra bread an got an NVQ in plumbing, so e sez. . . . .find the wire [on rhs rear buklhead above the wheel,looking into the back] that is PU/BL in Earth speak thats purple with a blue stripe :) . . . .he say's ,cut this wire and strip a bit off [on the one going towards the door] and get a battery of 12 Voltaire's [a motor bike size one would do] apply POSS + TO THE PU/BL AND NEG - TOO [oops caps on ] the chassis of the gaylander ,he sed. . .only blip it and get someone to pull open the rear door at same time, do not keep the + on for a long time as its a spring return solenoid and you'll feck it. . . . . .hope this helps :) :) :)
 
Bofvonhookstinar said:
Hey all. I am replacing my rear hatch door and got a line on a decent used one for cheap but I cant open the door because they removed the wiring harness from the engine bay. :(
So... ya. Not sure how to feed power into the system. is there a way I can power just the rear section... or maybe pop the trim in back to actuate the door mechanics?
Any help would be great.
thanks you all. :)
Click to expand...
You need to remove the trim panel, 3 or 4 screws along the lower edge and then pull upwards (not easy but it does release eventually) to open the door you need to identify the lock motor/solenoid and manually operate the door lock release rod using a piece of strong wire, a bent tent peg is ideal.
 
Ok, so once I translated what Ming said to an English I can understand I went back and looked at the wire and not the pin locations out of the book. they have the PU wire listed on a different pin. So anyway I just followed the PU wire and the B wire used those pins and put some voltage across them and woot it worked. so now I just need to hook up with the guy whose got that door and I am golden. :)

Thanks Ming for making me actually do some looking instead of just following the book. thanks broham! :D
 
A little update. After getting back from a wonderful field exorcize ( :mil83: ) I finally got the door out and swapped.:5bparty:
So I have all the parts from a 2002 rear door minus the glass so if anyone needs any of those parts hit me up. There just sitting here and I don't really have a place for them in the barracks. ;)
Oh and I noticed the new doors glass has a broken tab for the rear defrost. any ideas of "fixing" that without having to buy a new rear glass for it???
 
two stage repair - araldite the tag back onto it, then when fully dry, get some heated screen repair paint from halfords, rough up a bit of the track near the tag (gently though, don't want to rip it from the screen) paint over the roughed up bit and all the way up to and over the tag, then when fully dry, plug connector back on.
 
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