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B7YEN

New Member
Today i changed the glow plugs and bleed pipes, it was still smoking so i decided to try and remove the EGR thing. Feeling well confidant after fitting a new front bumper and light bar took to the challenge with great joy.
Unfortunately that didn’t last long as i realised the some git had already tried and broken the alan heads. So i got my stud extractor and started to but couldn’t get it in because of the valve bit was in the way:doh:.
After losing much skin I took to the dam valve with a plastic mallet to get the valve out of the way to clear the bolt remover. But unfortunately both bolts snapped at the sodden things even though the engine was very hot.
Any ideas on what i can do, one thought is to drill and tap. HELP
 
Take the manifold off, take to an engineering firm for spark erosion .. ;)
 
The manifold is the exhaust manifold that the egr valve bolts down to.

An Engineering Company is a Company that does Engineering.

Spark Erosion is a way of burning out studs down a threaded hole. The hole will probably need a tap running down it afterwards to clear it out thoroughly .. ;)
 
got the EGR blanking plate fitted went out for a spin only to find that its still smoking and it seems to be down on power. almost like the timing is out. still got some investigation to do i feel
 
B7YEN said:
got the EGR blanking plate fitted went out for a spin only to find that its still smoking and it seems to be down on power. almost like the timing is out. still got some investigation to do i feel
Click to expand...

How did you get the rounded alan head out? I have the same problem.
 
hi sandman,
i warmed the engine up for around 20 min (made a fantastic noise) after farting around with an extractor set I simpoly drilled an 7.5mm hole and ran a tap down the whole took about 10 min as everything was hot.

i was lucky a friend of mine tried extracting them with a special extractor but no joy they where rusted nicely. I have no doubt i did it wrong but it worked for me and at the cost of 2 m8 bolts and a steel drill
 
I did speak to a mechanic who said to drill a 9.5mm hole and retaap the threads with a 10mm tap, but i managed to get away with the m8 bolts.

the smoke is grey and only realy at startup but does create small clouds when driving until the engine is realy hot. I replaced glowplugs full service and bleedoff pipes
it is not using any oil from the engine,
 
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Nice one .. I never seem to be able to drill on a centre line of a snapped stud .. ;)
 
Truth be known i had to file the bolt flat first then using a punch make a starting dent, also used a much smaller left hand dril first. plus the engine was hot so fairley easy.

just take your time is my advice.
 
B7YEN said:
Truth be known i had to file the bolt flat first then using a punch make a starting dent, also used a much smaller left hand dril first. plus the engine was hot so fairley easy.

just take your time is my advice.
Click to expand...

DO you have a really small drill? There is no way I could get sqaure onto the bolts with the radiator in the way. I am really at a loss on how to do this. :mad:
 
Ahh Sandman the very reason I snapped the bolts to begin with,:eek:
I used the trusty hammer and pry bar after discovering some goosing idiot had rounded the internal alan heads and then, i snapped the alan key i bought, so resorted to sheer violence. I should have grinded the valve off first i guess....:doh:

I did spray some wd on them the day before and then an hour before trying but nothing was going to move the bolts. I have no idea why the valve has to sit in the way of the alan heads or what moron decided alan heads where the best option or why (my own opinion m8 bolts would have been fine)
 
tip-if you round off allen key bolts, beat a spline drive into it
 
The saga continues, following a number of cars today in Fmbro I overtook a police man on a push bike only to be forced to slow down I realised the rozza was somewhat ****ed at me due to the smoke covering him, so I sped up slightly and noticed the smoke cleared. To test the theory I slowed back down and smoked the rozza out again.:ballchain:

I don’t know what was better finding out that 2000rpm in any gear creates smoke, or ****ing off a old bill on a push bike, who couldn’t keep up?:5bauto:
 
sounds like it might have something to do with the turbo (dont panick);

There's usually a pipe to the injection pump which alters timing and quantity of fuel injected when the turbo's doing its thing (more air-more fuel), I'd have a look at that and the pipes from the turbo to the intercooler and from the intercooler to the inlet manifold.

I'd also have a play with the pump timing (guide online) but if you're due a timing belt, do that first.

Have you tried injector cleaner?
 
remember the pulley on the end of the injector pump? it's got three bolts in it, slacken them and turn the big nut in the middle, this adjusts the timing which may help (there's a guide about somewhere) they're slotted holes so you can't get it too far out.

Have you checked the pipes I mentioned? they may be split or breaking up on the inside and restricting air going in.

This didn't start when timing belt was changed did it? just a thought.

Other than that, there's a few things you could tweek on the pump that might help. Would also be worth checking that none of the brakes are binding.

Sorry if any of this is teaching to suck eggs, I don't know anything about you or your ability but going back to basics will often cure problems you were sure was more complex.
 
Thin_trucker said:
Sorry if any of this is teaching to suck eggs.
Click to expand...

dont worry abou that,

i did check the bleed off pipes and the fue line. cant remove the pannel in the rear to see the sender thouugh. I have checked with challanger on the timing hopefully they can tuning it :doh:. driving me mad all this hunt the problem. guess i musnt grumble to much..

breaks are not binding, and it only happens at 2000rpm or when cold. wonderd if it could be an injector?
 
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