Cashpat

Member
Defender, ‘01, 110. Recently the passenger’s wiper locked up and refused to sweep as per normal and as per driver’s side. I’ve dismantled the assembly, replaced cable with new, replaced wheel bracket, spindle etc with new, changed wiper arms but still the set up on passengers side will only run without wiper attached. I would like to know if the wiper motor is the cause as, through the elimination process, I’ve tested everything else. Is it possible that the motor no longer has the capability of lifting both wipers for clean sweep across the window due to the necessary lift of their weight? I don’t have an ohms tester available and not sure I would be fit to determine from one whether that was the problem given technical spec involved. Have been working on this issue for a while now, several days minimum and need a bit of help. Appreciate your time in responding as ever.
 
First check the driver side spindle is free and moves freely, extra load here may result in a stop when friction of other wiper is added.
The motor bearing/bushes can get dry and tight more so the bottom one. Loosen lower plate and spray some penetrating oil in the gap [ not WD40 ] something like RP90.
Next try disconnect wire drive from motor, you should be able to move wipers by hand, wet window before you try.
 
Cheers for the swift response. On your points then: the drivers side spindle moves around when active without any difficulty, when the wiper is or isn’t on the passenger side. As I’d said, without the wiper on the spindle, everything goes according to plan. As soon as the wiper arm is attached, however, the cog in the wheel assembly is static while the driver’s side continues to operate as normal.
I’m not 100% sure about your second point, by which I mean, loosening the lower plate part. During replacement/reattaching cable I had cause to undo the motor to access cable connection, everything in that area was working with grease aplenty to help along. Are you talking of the opposite side of the motor? What I might call the back, where cable is present in the “front”?
As to the last point, I should’ve mentioned that, when in rest position, I’m able to move the passenger’s side wiper v freely backward and forward, as if no resistance from the cable to wheel assembly cog. But it’s the opposite on the driver’s side, v little or almost no movement by hand. Is that what you would expect? Anyway, I’m here to learn and thanks for taking the time to give advice.
 
Cheers for the swift response. On your points then: the drivers side spindle moves around when active without any difficulty, when the wiper is or isn’t on the passenger side. As I’d said, without the wiper on the spindle, everything goes according to plan. As soon as the wiper arm is attached, however, the cog in the wheel assembly is static while the driver’s side continues to operate as normal.
I’m not 100% sure about your second point, by which I mean, loosening the lower plate part. During replacement/reattaching cable I had cause to undo the motor to access cable connection, everything in that area was working with grease aplenty to help along. Are you talking of the opposite side of the motor? What I might call the back, where cable is present in the “front”?
As to the last point, I should’ve mentioned that, when in rest position, I’m able to move the passenger’s side wiper v freely backward and forward, as if no resistance from the cable to wheel assembly cog. But it’s the opposite on the driver’s side, v little or almost no movement by hand. Is that what you would expect? Anyway, I’m here to learn and thanks for taking the time to give advice.

Have a search on YouTube for “britanica restorations”. Search his videos for the one that has a similar issue with the wipers. Do what he says in the video.

Basically, what I think is the issue, is that the “cable” is slipping over the “wheel” in the wheel box, making that wiper slip. The fix for it is to knock the top of the wiper box over slightly, this moves the cable closer to the wheel.
 
Cheers for the swift response. On your points then: the drivers side spindle moves around when active without any difficulty, when the wiper is or isn’t on the passenger side. As I’d said, without the wiper on the spindle, everything goes according to plan. As soon as the wiper arm is attached, however, the cog in the wheel assembly is static while the driver’s side continues to operate as normal.
I’m not 100% sure about your second point, by which I mean, loosening the lower plate part. During replacement/reattaching cable I had cause to undo the motor to access cable connection, everything in that area was working with grease aplenty to help along. Are you talking of the opposite side of the motor? What I might call the back, where cable is present in the “front”?
As to the last point, I should’ve mentioned that, when in rest position, I’m able to move the passenger’s side wiper v freely backward and forward, as if no resistance from the cable to wheel assembly cog. But it’s the opposite on the driver’s side, v little or almost no movement by hand. Is that what you would expect? Anyway, I’m here to learn and thanks for taking the time to give advice.



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Hi, Thanks for that. unfortunately I’d watched that video last week, did as they’d suggested with bending top of wheel box, to null effect. Currently, with a new wheel box, I can clearly see there is contact between cable and cog in the wheel box when the wiper arm is off. What’s happening is that as soon as the load of the wiper arm is placed on that spindle then the cable tries to move the cog but it’s refusing to go.
 
Hi, Thanks for that. unfortunately I’d watched that video last week, did as they’d suggested with bending top of wheel box, to null effect. Currently, with a new wheel box, I can clearly see there is contact between cable and cog in the wheel box when the wiper arm is off. What’s happening is that as soon as the load of the wiper arm is placed on that spindle then the cable tries to move the cog but it’s refusing to go.

Have you bent the top too far now? So it’s too tight and the wiper is causing extra load. Does the wiper motor blow the fuse?
 
Does it work it the wiper arm is on but the wiper is up and away from Window.?

Mine had all new bits apart from motor and that kept blowing fuses. A mate had it overnight, cleaned it all reseated the brushes and it works a treat.

Not that bad a job to take teh wiper motor off and clean it etc.
 
Does it work it the wiper arm is on but the wiper is up and away from Window.?

Mine had all new bits apart from motor and that kept blowing fuses. A mate had it overnight, cleaned it all reseated the brushes and it works a treat.
Have you bent the top too far now? So it’s too tight and the wiper is causing extra load. Does the wiper motor blow the fuse?


Not that bad a job to take teh wiper motor off and clean it etc.
Have you bent the top too far now? So it’s too tight and the wiper is causing extra load. Does the wiper motor blow the fuse?
hi mick, No the top wasn’t bent too much. Then, afterwards the whole wheel assembly was replaced and it’s clear that there’s a connection between cable and cog in the assembly but not enough pull in it to get the cog to shift when resistance caused by load.
 
Does it work it the wiper arm is on but the wiper is up and away from Window.?

Mine had all new bits apart from motor and that kept blowing fuses. A mate had it overnight, cleaned it all reseated the brushes and it works a treat.

Not that bad a job to take teh wiper motor off and clean it etc.
Hi Casey, thanks. Yes, the wiper arm will sweep seemingly normally when not laid on the window.. no fuses have been blowing so I think it’s something else, and likelihood it’ll be the motor innards. I’ve taken it off and put it back on so many times over recent times, changing cables, properly setting the cable link into the motor after not setting it properly and it’s now time to wonder if I take it apart will I change anything. I will add, that when it stopped working a few weeks ago, that is whenever the passengers wiper was trying hard to sweep but hadn’t the capacity to cope with the resistance of the window ( the kind of thing you might see when trying wipers on a frosted windscreen) makes me think that this sudden change had been the result of something giving up then. It’s not the cable nor the wheel assembly or the spindle as they’ve all been replaced so...the motor seems prime suspect and I’ll prob have to take it off again, hope I see a fault, and if not then get a new one of fleabay. C’est la vie a la Defender.
 
Just to clear point two . At the opposite end of the wiper motor can to where the wiper wire attachment point is, is the motor end plate held on by two screws and in this plate there is a bearing/bush for the motor armature. This can get dry and the motor waists power turning itself. It was the problem I had with mine.
 
So, an update for those bothered- The wiper motor was working without any obvious signs of wear or whatever when it’s cap at the end was removed. Of note I think is that even with the drivers side wiper off, and thus lightening the general load, when the psssengers side had the wiper fitted, the same problems occur. That’s where the cable tried to continue the process but when the wiper touches the window, it all becomes too difficult, there’s a stuttering as the motor turns and then the wiper finds a position where it holds and the lift has gone. The cable has been adjusted, in order to ensure its catching the cable and sits firmly and of course without wipers attached it runs smoothly with the cog connecting.n just noticed the drivers side spindle circle movement is not quite circular, with the more egg shaped turning movement. So, I’m about to remove it and replace with another albeit knowing the grub screw looks decidedly unwelcoming for leaving the spindle head. However, would that present the level of disruption to the overall movement of cable and cog gears remains to be seen. It would seem a replacement motor will be in the offing even though I’m resisting any purchase lest the problem is not in the motor but something else I’ve thus far missed.
 
We like folk who come back with how they get on with the problem they have on this forum.:)
Any thing that can put extra load on the system can cause a problem.
Also old motors can get weak.
One more thing, make sure the earth point on the bulkhead is good.
 
We like folk who come back with how they get on with the problem they have on this forum.:)
Any thing that can put extra load on the system can cause a problem.
Also old motors can get weak.
One more thing, make sure the earth point on the bulkhead is good.
And I would like to come back with positive news. Other than a lot of learning has been made over this process, the latest news might have some of you wondering why, oh why. So, took the motor apart to ‘check’ bushes inside. Long story short, once put back together again, the motor wasn’t keen on responding. While there was some initial movement of the inner gear while on intermittent wipe mode, it became apparent that it wasn’t going to go full movement. Removed the bottom cap again, checked connections, and secured it again. Result: no movement whatsoever. Not sure whether I’ve hampered some electrical link, blown a fuse, wrecked a relay or, killed the motor. Thought better of trying anymore diy and did the right thing and left it for the night- maybe some mechanically minded elves will emerge and sort it. Thoughts on progress will be welcome from here regardless.
 

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