Locky1978

Active Member
Dont worry this isn't a one shot vs EP90 thread. I rebuilt my front swivels and went with the one shot grease. Is one sachet per side suppose to be sufficient or are you suppose to fill to the level of the filling plug as per normal?
Also one interesting thing I came across while debating what to use was that someone recommended leaving the oil seal out of the axle tube. Then you share ep90 between the whole axle assembly and swivels.
 
Don' know about how much one shot grease to use but I guess that an advantage of sealing the swivels from the diff means that if one becomes full of water and mud or broken bits of metal, in theory this won't mean that the other parts of the axle will be taken out too.
 
Yeah, I did put the seals in mine as I was using grease. Plus I think the swivels are probably prone to a bit of ingress where as the axle is sealed pretty well.
It was an interesting idea though.
 
One pack of one shot grease per swivel, and make sure that your shaft oil seals are in place.

That's why you have a filler on each of your swivels and one for the diff.
 
One sachet per swivel housing should be fine, although I put an extra 1/3 of a sachet in each side to help achieve more splash to the top pin / bush (hopefully!)
 
Hi Land Raver, that was my worry. Although my new raikos had a much larger lubrication hole than the originals. I was thinking of topping the swivel housings up with ep90. So I'll maybe have a slightly more fluid grease/ ep90 mix. I'm sure once the UJ is spinning up in that housing it throws plenty of grease up the top.
 
I have modified the top swivel pin on my series three with a drilling and grease nipple plus a groove and cross drilling. I can now pump in EP90 or grease to help out the top bush,they are small holes as standard to rely on splash alone.
 
I have modified the top swivel pin on my series three with a drilling and grease nipple plus a groove and cross drilling. I can now pump in EP90 or grease to help out the top bush,they are small holes as standard to rely on splash alone.

That sounds like a good idea. I plan to remove the top pin annually to re lubribate with some grease or moly slip as part of my service regime. I rebuilt the axle with almost all new bits earlier this year so want to keep it in good order. I would love to see your mod re the grease nipple if you have any pics etc :)
 
My defender 90 puma uses one shot grease to swivel housing I have just checked it at 9 years old and 55,000 miles
I topped up to about half full using a nylon cable tie as a dipstick it was easy to do even in my own drive, I can't find any info on how much to put in some say one sachet per side some say fill it to the top and some say about halfway
I settled for about halfway
Any comments ???
 
Old Thread and in Series Land Rover section. Try Defender section. Also it's always a good idea to introduce yourself in the Welcome/Introduction section then i'm sure the members on here will happily help with your question. ;)
 
Halfway is fine, lube is better than no lube. If you fill it right up it will only force its way out when hot.
Forget the introduction bit,nobody cares.
 
Old Thread and in Series Land Rover section. Try Defender section. Also it's always a good idea to introduce yourself in the Welcome/Introduction section then i'm sure the members on here will happily help with your question. ;)
I've tried the intros section but couldn't make any sense of it ???????
 
Yeah, I did put the seals in mine as I was using grease. Plus I think the swivels are probably prone to a bit of ingress where as the axle is sealed pretty well.

When I changed my axle oils recently the front was milkier (from water ingress I assume) than the rear. Assuming the back axle goes through all the same water as the front one (!), I put it down to being the swivels where the water gets in more. Is this other people's experience when servicing, particularly those off-roading regularly, does the front axle oil come out with water in more often?
 
In theory the front axle should be better sealed than the rear, the rear is open to the hubs. I suspect it a simple lack of temperature. The back axle is the one doing all the work, condensation is a fact of life, get the oil hot and you stand a chance of driving out the moisture. Problem is worse if you run FWH.
 

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