Taggy

New Member
found out last night that if you remove the cover on the master cylinder and use a LARGE screwdriver to activate the master cyl. it was possible to activate it and reach down and turn the bleed nipple on the slave from above. To hold the cyl. in was able to place a second screwdriver between the wing nut on the air filter (orig type) and the top of the brake fluid res. Was pretty easy really. dont know if its of any use to anybody but its not always possible to have another bod handy!

taggy
 
On a 90 if you take the drivers floor panel out you can lie underneath doing the bleed nipple with one hand while you do the clutch pedal with the other hand.
 
On a 90 if you take the drivers floor panel out you can lie underneath doing the bleed nipple with one hand while you do the clutch pedal with the other hand.

On a 2a there is a rubber bung by the clutch peddle that will allow you to get to the slave cylinder bleed nipple.
 
found out last night that if you remove the cover on the master cylinder and use a LARGE screwdriver to activate the master cyl. it was possible to activate it and reach down and turn the bleed nipple on the slave from above. To hold the cyl. in was able to place a second screwdriver between the wing nut on the air filter (orig type) and the top of the brake fluid res. Was pretty easy really. dont know if its of any use to anybody but its not always possible to have another bod handy!

taggy

get one of those one handed bleeding kits, only about a tenner
 
Generally you don't need to do any of that clever stuff.

Just top up the master cylinder to the brim, and open the bleed nipple on the slave.

Gravity should do the rest, slowly, but very thoroughly usually.

If the fluid doesn't start to drip out begin to suspect your master cylinder seals are swelling up, which may have been the cause of your problems in the first place.

CharlesY
 
twas def the slave, fluid in, fluid out of slave cos the seal went! but something to bear in mind for the future! cheers!
 

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