OIls : how good is the new britpart10/40 semi synthetic

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  • but use

    Votes: 1 100.0%

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Yep, and we still do!

Three D2 V8's and a 4.6 Rangie Vogue, all running on 10W-40 diesel oil, 94k miles on my D2 V8 with original cam followers and camshaft**

I have often recommended diesel lubricating oil as long as it is a quality brand.

Peter

** We put a genuine Rover short engine in it in 2009, but the camshaft and followers were transferred from the old 4.6 that was in there illegally.
 
Whilst 10 or 15/40 magnatec will be happy under most operating conditions, you'd be surprised how quickly I could drive away and bring it back with the top end knocking. It wouldn't last 10 minutes on a track.
 
What's £120 for 8 litres? Penrite hpr is £120 for 20 litres Inc delivery. Hot hatches 10/40 ss with zddp is much cheaper.
Castrol edge is very pricey though. And still only hydrocrack.
oops Johnny B I got that wrong .re price . I'm going with the magnatec semi synth 10/40 for this service thks for input
 
Whilst 10 or 15/40 magnatec will be happy under most operating conditions, you'd be surprised how quickly I could drive away and bring it back with the top end knocking. It wouldn't last 10 minutes on a track.
5000 miles and the oil is changed .. and no tracks ..
BTW I have another marmite car mazda RX8 40th anniv
you should see the wide variations on oil debate re forums for those
cheers
GB
 
Magnatec is a premium priced product and fairly well suited. Overpriced for a semi though. And only in 4l. Could have more zddp to. Miller's products are also very suitable.
 
5000 miles and the oil is changed .. and no tracks ..
BTW I have another marmite car mazda RX8 40th anniv
you should see the wide variations on oil debate re forums for those
cheers
GB
Change it every 3000 or go by the colour. It's small change compared to the fuel economy. Dark brown = detergents spent
 
Oil is a touchy subject for many. Tell people there oils no good and you've lit the blue touchpaper!
V8s are funny old engines but there very expensive to rebuild and as such I think need the very best oil.
What that is goes from universal tractor oil to the cheap 20/50 to fully synth 5/40 and everything but the fuel economy oils(pee thin).
It's no surprise diesel oils may cause problems in petrol engines... They are fundamentally inappropriate..note I say may. Because Chevron seems fine but choose another and your engine may wear faster!
 
you should see the wide variations on oil debate re forums for thoseGB

High performance oil is tricky stuff (as your earlier post suggests) and so much is intellectual property so there is a lot of misdirection and snake-oil. For the age and length of time to spot the oil is no good, it is too late for most of us, hence you need someone with insider knowledge. In the past Shell were way ahead of the game: no-one else could touch their premium products. I suspect their Helix offering is probably similar but I have no evidence or comparators. Most of these synthetic oils were primary designed for long service changes. For those of us who are a bit more cautious with their engines and change the oil (and filter!) every 5k miles or less they are more than likely overkill. When I drop my oil and try to pinch it on my fingertip I can feel it is still doing its job. Any car I have had has rotted before the mechanicals let go. Colour doesn't help on a diesel (always black!) or on LPG (hardly any change).

But as you say on a lot of forums it is almost like a religion, driven by belief in the lack of any concrete published evidence. People have their favourites that haven't let them down but I suspect most are pretty similar unless you go for the real bargain basement stuff or the extreme top end stuff.

If I had the money and wanted the best I think I'd have a punt on Shell (no affiliation), purely on historic track record and in the absence of any more recent data. Until then I'll stick with cheap and chearful Smith & Allan, something like

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10w-40-S...ine-Oil-ACEA-A3-B4-20-Litre-20L-/252471326993
 
High performance oil is tricky stuff (as your earlier post suggests) and so much is intellectual property so there is a lot of misdirection and snake-oil. For the age and length of time to spot the oil is no good, it is too late for most of us, hence you need someone with insider knowledge. In the past Shell were way ahead of the game: no-one else could touch their premium products. I suspect their Helix offering is probably similar but I have no evidence or comparators. Most of these synthetic oils were primary designed for long service changes. For those of us who are a bit more cautious with their engines and change the oil (and filter!) every 5k miles or less they are more than likely overkill. When I drop my oil and try to pinch it on my fingertip I can feel it is still doing its job. Any car I have had has rotted before the mechanicals let go. Colour doesn't help on a diesel (always black!) or on LPG (hardly any change).

But as you say on a lot of forums it is almost like a religion, driven by belief in the lack of any concrete published evidence. People have their favourites that haven't let them down but I suspect most are pretty similar unless you go for the real bargain basement stuff or the extreme top end stuff.

If I had the money and wanted the best I think I'd have a punt on Shell (no affiliation), purely on historic track record and in the absence of any more recent data. Until then I'll stick with cheap and chearful Smith & Allan, something like

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10w-40-S...ine-Oil-ACEA-A3-B4-20-Litre-20L-/252471326993
great response .. thanks for your contribution ... GB
 
Just to add a caveat away from brands as such. The wife runs a 1.4 tdci Ford. A psa engine. I have only ever run Ford application oils in this car. Any brand as long as it's "for Ford applications" because these engines have a tendency to egr and injector problems both of which can contaminate the oil with carbon. Use fleet oil and this leads to a blockage of the turbo lubricant gauze and a turbo failure. Then unless Ford's tsb is followed to the letter another turbo failure and so on. Also pre 12500 m oil change helps.
Use an appropriate oil.
 

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