Not too difficult; remove 4 prop flange bolts, remove circlip thing and undo main big nut on pinion, i think there may be a spacer as well?, you then need to carefully prise old seal out using a big screwdriver and some punches, mine was metal so i used a self tap screw and pliers.
Oil the new one and drive it in straight and gently with a big socket or tube, refit the bits and torque up as in manual.
You need a 9/16 ring spanner for the prop bolts and a breaker bar for the pinion nut!
 
If you don't drain the diff first it will **** all over the ground when you take out the drive flange...just be aware. :)I always forget that and either end up staining all the already-oily patches or going through yet another half-bag of kitty litter.

ajr
 
There's a special tool for holding the flange while undoing the pinion nut - two flange bolts, a ring spanner and a piece of scaff pole (or similar) will do the job just as well. Undoing/torquing up the pinion nut is a pig without this 'cos all you do is wind up the rear drive until the wheels slip! And torque the pinion nut up to up to 70 to 120 ft lb.
 
oxides said:
There's a special tool for holding the flange while undoing the pinion nut - two flange bolts, a ring spanner and a piece of scaff pole (or similar) will do the job just as well. Undoing/torquing up the pinion nut is a pig without this 'cos all you do is wind up the rear drive until the wheels slip! And torque the pinion nut up to up to 70 to 120 ft lb.
Click to expand...

called a air impact with 6 point socket, or a electric/or battery impact will do:D
 
I am off to machine mart Monday to get a impact wrench, don't fancy trying it without!
 
if you are using one take care, they strip a thread easier than you would imagine! the clarke 240v one i have is a beast and i would never tighten up with it, just loosen after wire brush and wd40 inxs!
 
ronsealdeath said:
if you are using one take care, they strip a thread easier than you would imagine! the clarke 240v one i have is a beast and i would never tighten up with it, just loosen after wire brush and wd40 inxs!
Click to expand...

thats the exact one i was looking at, for taking off stuff rather than tightening, i prefer a torque wrench and feel to tighten. Some things are a bitch to get off though!
 
Nothing has ever stopped it, its well worth the money, heavy and not for tight spaces but got tonnes of torque, my air powered one us miles less powerful
 
Mine was WELL stuck- in the end I had a socket with a bar? Rather than a rachet and had to use a trolley jack to lift / move the end of the bar. It was on so tight that as I was lifting the jack it was lifting the front end then all of a sudden something gave- didn't know if the socket had shattered, bar broke etc but it turned out the nut had RELIEVED!!!!:p
 
sm0129 said:
Mine was WELL stuck- in the end I had a socket with a bar? Rather than a rachet and had to use a trolley jack to lift / move the end of the bar. It was on so tight that as I was lifting the jack it was lifting the front end then all of a sudden something gave- didn't know if the socket had shattered, bar broke etc but it turned out the nut had RELIEVED!!!!:p
Click to expand...

thats cheaper than me spending £70 on a impacter, think i might give it a go first without and then rush down the shop and buy the wrong thing in a panic when i cant get it undone - thats my standard OP.....
 
As told you above its an easy task in this case if you have a little knowledge about DIY.
First remove flange bolts and circlip thing after that undo main big nut on the pinion. You need to careful praise old seal out using a big screwdriver. Oil the new one and repeat the same thing which you have done for removing.

Get details about repair and maintenance | car repairs brisbane
 
Last edited:
ykeor said:
As told you above its an easy task in this case if you have a little knowledge about DIY.
First remove flange bolts and circlip thing after that undo main big nut on the pinion. You need to careful praise old seal out using a big screwdriver. Oil the new one and repeat the same thing which you have done for removing.
Click to expand...

Spoken like a true Haynes manual author!
 
"Asssembly is trhe reverse of disassembly".

Uhhhh...yah. Right.

The trick with these things is shock - you can yank on it all day (oo eck!) and it won't come loose, but the shock of an impact driver will break it loose.

Barring that you can always do my favorite last-resort trick of jacking it, jamming a breaker bar with a bit of scaffold pole on it against the ground, having someone stand on the brakes and use the vehicle's weight to spin it off. Not a great idea but it's never failed me.

ajr
 
A piece of flat bar drilled with two holes so that it can be bolted to flange and other end sitting on ground hold the flange still very well ,then use the same torque wrench you are going to retighten it to 80ft/lb to undo the nut.
Worth checking the seal area on the flange when you remove as if badly grooved new oil seal is not going to solve the leak.
A bit of sealer around the new oil seal outer edge will aslo help.
 
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