Intestinalworm · Mar 7, 2020

2003 Discovery 2 Td5

Will be doing the annual service next month. For peace of mind I was thinking whether or not I should check the oil pump sprocket bolt while I'm at it? Of course this would now require me buying an oil sump gasket (genuine) and a new bolt (with Loctite).

I have a standard jack of course and two axle stands. From what I've read, getting the sump off and back on can be a real problem. Any thoughts on this?

Feathers McGraw · Mar 7, 2020

I did mine a while back. I found getting the sump off wasn't too bad, had the front end lifted up so the suspension was as much extended as possible and it wriggled out quite easily. However, getting it back in without upsetting the gasket and before the silicon goo dried was a bit more fraught and took a few careful attempts. Biggest worry is getting any crap in and I did give it a careful blast with the pressure washer the previous day.
Important reading here http://www.discovery2.co.uk/Oil_pump_bolt.html

raywin · Mar 7, 2020

stripped my Defender TD5 engine last year after 120K miles, the bolt was tight but had no loctite on it at all.
Gave me a nasty turn thinking that it could have gone bang at any time. If you do it be very carefull to get the sprocket located on the shaft correctly, easy for it to slip up while you are tightening the bolt which is much stiffer when you use the correct bolt.

Feathers McGraw · Mar 7, 2020

There are quite a few sump bolts and I found using an air ratchet driver made it a bit easier to get them back in quickly but not tight, leaving that to a proper torque wrench.

NPG · Mar 7, 2020

Just follow the instructions in the link provided by @Feathers McGraw and you'll be OK. I'd get a new rotor filter drain tube gasket and sort out the rubber PAS pipe as well while you're in there. Putting it all back can be a challenge if you don't have a lift as you need to make sure not to crush the dowels on the gasket as otherwise it will leak. I found the easiest way to do it is to apply the sealant in the areas indicated (I used Loctite SI 5980 from Halfords) and install the gasket first, holding it in place with a couple of small cable ties. This gave me enough time to mate the sump and fit the bolts in the right sequence, cutting and removing the cable ties as I go along. I also allowed 24hrs for the sealant to fully cure before filling it with oil.

Feathers McGraw · Mar 7, 2020

NPG said:
I found the easiest way to do it is to apply the sealant in the areas indicated (I used Loctite SI 5980 from Halfords) and install the gasket first, holding it in place with a couple of small cable ties.

Cunning!

Stanleysteamer · Mar 7, 2020

The gasket for the autobox I found to be impossible. It just went where it wanted to. So I reused the old one. Ain't leaked yet

Intestinalworm · Mar 8, 2020

NPG said:
Just follow the instructions in the link provided by @Feathers McGraw and you'll be OK. I'd get a new rotor filter drain tube gasket and sort out the rubber PAS pipe as well while you're in there. Putting it all back can be a challenge if you don't have a lift as you need to make sure not to crush the dowels on the gasket as otherwise it will leak. I found the easiest way to do it is to apply the sealant in the areas indicated (I used Loctite SI 5980 from Halfords) and install the gasket first, holding it in place with a couple of small cable ties. This gave me enough time to mate the sump and fit the bolts in the right sequence, cutting and removing the cable ties as I go along. I also allowed 24hrs for the sealant to fully cure before filling it with oil.

Okay, so gasket on first eh and temporarily hold with cable ties until sealant cures? Sounds good! Thanks!

I noticed that the discovery2 blog mentions removing a cross-member, so take it that's not really necessary?

Will have to look into the rotor filter drain tube gasket and the rubber PAS pipe - bit of homework required!

Intestinalworm · Mar 8, 2020

Feathers McGraw said:
I did mine a while back. I found getting the sump off wasn't too bad, had the front end lifted up so the suspension was as much extended as possible and it wriggled out quite easily. However, getting it back in without upsetting the gasket and before the silicon goo dried was a bit more fraught and took a few careful attempts. Biggest worry is getting any crap in and I did give it a careful blast with the pressure washer the previous day.
Important reading here http://www.discovery2.co.uk/Oil_pump_bolt.html

Was the bolt okay or did it need replacing?

NPG · Mar 8, 2020

Intestinalworm said:
Okay, so gasket on first eh and temporarily hold with cable ties until sealant cures? Sounds good! Thanks!

I noticed that the discovery2 blog mentions removing a cross-member, so take it that's not really necessary?

Will have to look into the rotor filter drain tube gasket and the rubber PAS pipe - bit of homework required!

Not exactly

So...

1. Apply sealant 2. Install and hold gasket in place with cable ties (you shouldn't need more that 4 as it will also adhere to the sealant) 3. Immediately install sump and remove cable ties from bolt holes as you insert the bolts one by one 4. Torque bolts up 5. Allow sealant to fully cure before oil fill

As for the PAS pipe, the rubber section on mine wasn't badly damaged so I left it in place and taped over it with thick aluminium tape to protect against chafing and heat coming from the engine.

Feathers McGraw · Mar 8, 2020

Intestinalworm said:
I noticed that the discovery2 blog mentions removing a cross-member, so take it that's not really necessary?

Yes it is, the sump goes out backwards and the cross member is in the way. 4 bolts on each side of it, wire brushed and soaked in plusgas and the got a wall drive socket on them. Put new ones on anyway.

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