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ldrego

Active Member

• Apr 18, 2015

• #1

Looking for some help here on this one. Recently I changed the oil on the car as I thought it may have been overfilled. The Discovery 2 dropped some 10 litres of oil which was really thin and black. I filled up with the new oil and again it seems to be thinning out and the level seems to be increasing. The oil does smell as if it has some solvent present but I am not sure as to whether it could be beacuse of the wynne engine stop leak that I added. Let's be honest I added it after I had filled the car to the correct level and popped in 325 ml of this stuff in. I am wondering if the smell is coming from the Wynne stuff or from fuel mixing with the oil.
Any help would be appreciated.

 

jamesmartin

Well-Known Member

• Apr 18, 2015

• #2

diesel can leak in to engine ,through poor injector o rings or cracked heads on earlier engines

 

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ldrego

Active Member

• Apr 18, 2015

• #3

jamesmartin said:

diesel can leak in to engine ,through poor injector o rings or cracked heads on earlier engines

Click to expand...

It's a 2002 model is that one of the early models with that problem? Thanks for that.
Is it an easy job to do the o rings or an expensive job should i get a mechanic to do it.

 

jamesmartin

Well-Known Member

• Apr 18, 2015

• #4

ldrego said:

It's a 2002 model is that one of the early models with that problem? Thanks for that.
Is it an easy job to do the o rings or an expensive job should i get a mechanic to do it.

Click to expand...

not too difficult o do , you can tell if heads prone to cracking fuel gallery by looking at fuel pressure regulator, early has 2 pipe later 3,have a look at the link it will give you an idea
https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&r...KMgfgC&usg=AFQjCNE94RlAF_DcdO9gpZox7vpaltAZKg

 

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ldrego

Active Member

• Apr 18, 2015

• #5

jamesmartin said:

not too difficult o do , you can tell if heads prone to cracking fuel gallery by looking at fuel pressure regulator, early has 2 pipe later 3,have a look at the link it will give you an idea
https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&r...KMgfgC&usg=AFQjCNE94RlAF_DcdO9gpZox7vpaltAZKg

Click to expand...

Tha is just awesome. Thank you so much. I think I can tackle that.

 

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ldrego

Active Member

• Apr 18, 2015

• #6

Think I had better get one of those injector pullers. An suggestions as to which one / prices

 

jamesmartin

Well-Known Member

• Apr 18, 2015

• #7

ive done quite a few and whereas they can be stuck,generally a small injector bar has done the job for me
Google Image Result for http://www.clarketooling.co.uk/tools/CHT272L.jpg

 

cambridgecockney

Active Member

• Apr 19, 2015

• #8

Only turn crank bolt clockwise.When setting the injectors the cam must be at full lift, it is quite easy to see when the rockers are at the highest point. but if you look at the cam behind the sprocket there should be lines and numbers 1 - 5 marked. (Not in every case)
The number comes round first as you turn the engine over clockwise then a line, the number is the injector that's at full lift and to be adjusted and the line you line up with the straight edge next to the timing pin hole. hope this makes sense.
This indicates that the lobe is in top dead centre position. screw the adjuster down (clockwise)till it bottoms out! NOT just hitting the lock nut.
Rotate rocker adjusting screw anti-clockwise
one complete turn to give plunger the required bump clearance and tighten adjusting screw locknut 13mm to 16 Nm (12 lbf.ft) .
CAUTION: Ensure screw does not turn as
locknut is tightened.
Move on to the next one till they are all done.
The numbers on cam are the firing order.
Firing order is 1,2,4,5,3.
Remember that with every injector you set you need to ensure the rocker is at top dead centre on the cam.
After completion of rocker arm adjustment,
At this point double check the rocker and injector bolts torque.
Slowly rotate engine clockwise 2 complete turns by hand to ensure that no injectors are
bottoming out on their plungers.

 

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ldrego

Active Member

• Apr 19, 2015

• #9

Thank you so much cambridgecockney for that info. I am not a car mechanic but just learning. I will have a mechanic with me when i do this though.

 

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ldrego

Active Member

• Apr 25, 2015

• #10

I am thinking about tackling this job today. Just looking through all the guides as recommended however only one mentioned using a locking pin. Is the locking pin necessary?

 

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ldrego

Active Member

• Apr 25, 2015

• #11

So the injectors cam e out fine but with a lot of slide hammering with a clarkes 9 piece slide hammer for bodywork. Worked a treat.
The o rings looked perfect when they came out. Can they look perfect even though they may be lealing fluid?

 

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ldrego

Active Member

• May 10, 2015

• #12

All fixed. O rings and copper washers fixed it. Thanks all

 

markomate2

Well-Known Member

• May 11, 2015

• #13

Hi

A bit late now but Ill chuck in my recent experience!

Before putting oil back in (but with everything in place ready to put the cover back on) turn the ignition on and let it do the fuel purge, look VERY closely at the head around the area of the injector port, you are looking for any fuel weeping from below the injectors.

Concentrate on No.1 as this seems to be the worst culprit.

Watch it for at least 10 mins, if you cant see any leaks, you should be good to go, after you put the cover back on, and filling with oil!

My head cracked at No.1 port at its a late 15P engine.

But as yours in back together now, just check the oil level every few days at first, to make sure its not smelling of diesel and the level is not rising.

Mark