flat

Well-Known Member

• Dec 30, 2015

• #21

You may just be better running a new cable to the pressure sender. That's what I did. On my gauges one of the terminals was marked 'g' and that was the connector to the sender.

Trial and error the terminals on the back of the gauge you won't damage it, connected the wrong way round with the ignition on they will just go to full scale I would have thought

What's the back of your gauge look like?

 

zeaphod

Well-Known Member

• Dec 30, 2015

• #22

Ah, I see now, you're fitting additional gauges. If you pop your dash off a bit, you may be able to see how the terminals on your existing water temp and fuel level are used - your new gauges should follow the same pattern of connectors. You should be able to see the regulated power supply daisy chained to your existing gauges, and the two different coloured wires leading to the senders. You'll need that same regulated power supply for your new gauges.

 

Flossie

Well-Known Member

• Dec 30, 2015

• #23

irlamforet said:

Both terminals are insulated off the gauge by plastic insulators and are marked '1' and '2'...

TTFN.....

Click to expand...

Is the 1 really an I (ign +)?
And 2 is really an S (sender)?
Funny if it was! Lol

 

zeaphod

Well-Known Member

• Dec 31, 2015

• #24

Just found this on 'tinterweb:

 

Attachments

• 
  gauge capture.JPG

  19.1 KB · Views: 161

I

irlamforet

Member

• Dec 31, 2015

• #25

Flossie LOL it's definitely '1' & '2'

Zeaphod... Many thanks I didn't know about splicing in to the power supply to the gauges...I'm all sorted nom.

Thanks to everyone for helping out.....

TTFN

 

FlyingPete

Well-Known Member

• Jan 3, 2016

• #26

I've just been bench testing my coolant temp gauge to try and figure out why it's overreading. It seems you do need an earth connection with the standard gauges, connected to the screw on the back where the u-clamp fits over. What the gauge is doing is comparing the voltage between it and the sender against the voltage between it and ground. Without the ground connection, the gauge reading shoots up. I think this may be the cause of the trouble I'm having with mine- bad grounding means the gauge sees a lower voltage to compare against, so reads higher.

In your case, just fit a ring terminal to a black wire, clamp it under the nut which secures the gauge, and run it to a good ground point.

 

flat

Well-Known Member

• Jan 3, 2016

• #27

FlyingPete said:

I've just been bench testing my coolant temp gauge to try and figure out why it's overreading. It seems you do need an earth connection with the standard gauges, connected to the screw on the back where the u-clamp fits over. What the gauge is doing is comparing the voltage between it and the sender against the voltage between it and ground. Without the ground connection, the gauge reading shoots up. I think this may be the cause of the trouble I'm having with mine- bad grounding means the gauge sees a lower voltage to compare against, so reads higher.

In your case, just fit a ring terminal to a black wire, clamp it under the nut which secures the gauge, and run it to a good ground point.

Click to expand...

i ran an extra direct to the steering column support from the U clamps of each guage when my temp guage was over reading

 

FlyingPete

Well-Known Member

• Jan 3, 2016

• #28

flat said:

i ran an extra direct to the steering column support from the U clamps of each guage when my temp guage was over reading

Click to expand...

I might try that once it's stopped raining (or if it ever does.)

 

flat

Well-Known Member

• Jan 3, 2016

• #29

i am going to change my LR guage though for a durite one amrked in degrees celsius so i can see exactly whats going on

 

I

irlamforet

Member

• Jan 4, 2016

• #30

Thanks for the info 'FlyingPete' the first thing I did was to find a good earth for all my extra gauges as I wired in the instrument lighting ring first.

TTFN