Are you standing on an almost perfectly level surface, ive noticed my oil level change quite drastically based on the levelness of the surface.
I check my level about 5min after engine turnoff thats plenty time for all the oil to drain back down into the sump.

But i feel like the amount its dropped on the dipstick is abit too much oil to just be sitting in the heads if everything is fine on the engine.
It could be that your oil return galleries are gummed up so its not all draining back down into the sump fast enough.
 
Thank you! I have now had another look. Exactly at minimum. I'm topping up a little. But the car is currently standing a little uphill - I'll keep an eye on it.

Do I have to worry that the old oil was a little thick (deposits at the bottom of the drip tray)?
 
If the new oil you added has cleaning agents in it, it will probably loosen up a decent amount of gunk. So i would do another oil change reasonably soon. The how soon would be based on how dirty i think the engine is and how expensive the new oil is.
 
That's exactly what I was thinking about. I will do the change again after 1-2k KM.
I'm afraid that the last oil change was in 2022 - with extremely few killometres.
 
Shouldn’t need time. Mine drains down to the sump pretty quickly. Do you know where the oil was before you started?

At the end of the day, you need to fill the oil until it’s at the top mark on the dipstick.

On mine, the difference between the bottom mark and top mark is 1 litre.
 
You'll loose some in the new filter. If your piston rings are all good then it might take a while to run down into the sump. Always fill, run for a few minutes and then top off.
 
Hello everyone,

I would like to swap the crank seal at the weekend.
I had a look at it today.
Is it possible that I only have to remove the fan to be able to do everything?
I've seen a lot of videos but they always start from the bottom. It seems much easier to me to do the replacement from the top. Thanks!

...I have the right tool. The only problem will probably be fitting the new seal...
 

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I've done it before in situ when I fitted a Speedi-Sleeve.

Belt off.
Fan off.
Get a socket on the crank pulley bolt and undo that. It's bloody tight, you might need something to stop the engine turning. Pull off the crank pulley, and retain woodruff key.
I have one of those seal puller kit things and that made it very easy. You pull the old one out, and then the kit pushes the new on in. No hammering or tap-tap-tappity-tap needed.
Space it tight but I think you'll mange to lever the old seal out if you're careful. I'd measure how deep the old seal was in the front timing cover and put the new one at the same depth.
 
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super! Thank you very much!

Can you please tell me exactly what this is: "I have one of those seal puller kit things "? where did you buy it?
 
Cheap crap off eBay.


Quality is ****e, but it worked…. And has got me out of a bind a couple of times now. One of the hook bits has snapped now, but it’s been so useful, I’d consider buying a good one next…

The best thing is that it uses the crank bolt to refit the new seal, driving it in perfectly square and to a depth you can accurately gauge.

Have you considered fitting a speedi sleeve whilst you’re in there?? The cause of the leak may well be a groove worn in the pulley by the seal. That’s what was wrong with mine.
 
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Yes. It’s a very thin collar of stainless that you push over the damaged shaft and it replaces the running surface of the seal with a new one. Loads have used them. Mine worked perfectly.

I’d just mark where the current seal runs so you can get the Speedo sleeve in the right position. They’re not very wide and if you push it too far on it won’t line up with where the new seal runs on the pulley shaft.

you’ll also destroy it trying to get it off.

If you do some Googling you’ll get the correct part number.
 
 

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