If there is 1/2 litre or diesel in the oil it will be a lot thinnner so I would not run it more than absolutley necessary.
 
OK.

The LR specialist has quoted £200 to replace the injector seals. I assume that includes an oil change.
 
OK.

The LR specialist has quoted £200 to replace the injector seals. I assume that includes an oil change.

Doesn't seem too unreasonable when you consider labour charges, it's a couple of hours work. Hopefully they'll be using genuine parts - O rings and copper washers genuine are around £30-£50, genuine injector harness (they should be replacing this) around £60, plus oil and filters etc.

Did they look to see if there was diesel coming up from the injectors?
 
My 2000 TD5 had this problem. I changed injector seals to no avail. Also the wiring harness. Ended up putting on a new Spanish head which had a better casting with stronger fuel galleries. From memory it was about £1100 for the head and about the same for fitting. When removing the old head all the glow plugs were seized, which helped justify having a new one.
 
There's a useful thread on another forum about this. Google Td5 Cylinder Head Repair ?

There are mixed opinions about welded heads, some people have been really lucky others the heads haven’t lasted very long. Very much down to who does the welding.

The op has a 2003 vehicle so presumably the later head, cracks are uncommon. Lots of people have needlessly had new heads. According to our local engineering place if it’s cracked then it should just be visible when the injectors are out. I’ve read on other forums people saying they tend to crack more internally but I’m inclined to believe our local engineering place more, particularly if diesel is getting in the oil it’s more likely to be the injector socket.

Hopefully it’s just the £5 o rings and not a head issue
 
O rings and a very close look for cracks. If there is a crack I would seal it if its not through to the combustion space. Welding can cause as may cracks as it fixes if its done poorly and the level of seal need only be the same as provided by the o -ring.
 
I hope this turns out to just be O rings. I did mine before I changed the head. Had a really good look around the injectors and found no cracks. Sadly in my case it was the head. No water in the oil, just diesel.
When did the new heads come in? I seem to remember it was 2002 - although a 2003 car may be late registered. Any easy way to tell which head you have? Casting number?
 
The later heads have the different fuel pressure regulator - 2 pipe as opposed to the earlier single pipe. The engine number will be good guide as well, 15P or 16P are later heads. Engine number is on exhaust manifold side
 
I think mine is a 15p.

It’s going in tomorrow l will report back on what they find.

Cracks aren’t unheard of but I wouldn’t be panicking about a head just yet, and if the garage know you suspect it might be the head and then tell you it is get a second opinion
 
Keep an eye on the oil levels. Hopefully its sorted but if not then dont run with elevated oil levels as it will eventually "run away" and kill the engine.
 
Mines 15p, I found it weeping from the top oring and had a damaged copper one too. My level was high so I changed them and the oil.

CHecked the day after doing the seals and a oil change and the level had risen turns out that if I fill it on the dip stick the level jumps the following day. I measure how much I put in now, Its almost like the oil pools somewhere when filling it
 
Looks like it, l’ve been using it for work instead of the 110 to put some miles on it, and the oil level has remained exactly on the full mark, which is where it was when l got it back from having the seals changed.
 

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