Jamesbil

Jamesbil

New Member
So I was lying about under the landy today (as you do) and found 2 annoying oil leaks i need advice on.

1; where the prop enters the front diff, I assume this is just a pinnion oil seal, but will i need to replace other bits when i do this?

2; transfer oil dripping from the transmission brake drum, is this the oil catcher in the drum, or a seal on the output shaft?

3; exhaust manifold gasket to exhaust pipe, 2 nuts were slack, 1 missing, 1 stripped.

advice appreciated, as i get everything mail order, need to know what to have on hand.

Thanks guys
James
 
1 needs a new seal, fairly simple job, assuming the propshaft bolts come off without a fight. A couple of bolts, a spanner and a piece of tube can be used to lock the diff so you can remove the input shaft nut. Polish up the running surface on the input flange thingy with some very fine wet and dry if it's a bit corroded. You'll need a new split pin for the input shaft nut. The seal that came out of mine was leather and I found it difficult to find replacements - the modern equivalent is rubber/plastic stuff and seems to work okish. (I've got Rover diffs)

2 sounds like the output seal has gone. Never had to do one but it looks easy enough, you'll need new brake shoes.

3 remove manifold, attempt to remove stripped stud, break stud, find a friendly workshop to remove all the studs and replace.
 
just what i needed thanks, the exhaust wont be a prob, will send off for the bits, and will post when job done.

Thanks
 
A dremel type thing with a quality grind stone tip and a bit of patience will sort out the fanimold.
If just the oil seals need chaging, then you can get them at most bearing factor places, they are typed by three numbers, the first is the shaft dia, the second the outer dia of the seal, and the third is the thickness of the seal.
 
thanks again, small q; should there be that much oil in the manifold? i know you get a bit breathing up, but enough to drip?
 
yeah thats what i thought, any ideas as to why there is? blocked engine breather maybe? something more sinister?
all seems well, runs fine, oil and water is clean, no smoke from filler or dip stick.
a bit smokey on start up, but arent they all, it clears straight away.
 
If it was passing the valve oil seals and into the manifold you'd get lots of smoke, dunno how thats getting there, if the engine doesnt smoke a great deal, then I'd be looking at the oil getting there from somewhere else.
 
If it's inside the manifold it should smoke like a chimney, if it's under the manifold it's possibly the head gasket but it's most likely to have dribbled down from the rocker cover gasket, they harden and leak after a few years. A useful tip for replacement is to evo stik the gasket to the cover before fitting to keep it in position.
 
Ooh - that's not good. Can't understand why it's not smoking, though. Is there any sign of oil in the bores? If not then I'd agree with Dr pepper - hardened valve stem oil seals and worn valve guides, oil dripping straight into the exhaust outlets.
 
ok on further inspection and driving it is pretty smokey, altho clear when idling.
so valve oil seals? is this a head off job?
dont worry i wont jump in and do it, just want to know what i might be looking at.
Thanks
James
 
still not done the seal job, thought i might try some oil seal stop leak from redex, not loosing much at €5, and if it works, cool
 
most likely cause are the valve seals after time the seals go hard allowing oil to pass thru i had this on my series111 once the head was referbed oil and smoke cured.
 
what i did was a complete overhall of the head, i put in new valves.new valve seals, new exspansion plugs or core plugs whatever you want to call them, i reground the valve seats and replaced the injectors with recon injectors total cost approx £40.00.
 
ok so head off and stripped this aft.
turns out no.3 exhaust valve seal wasnt fitted properly, just sitting on top of its seat and not popped on!
will change all tho and have ground valves and painted head.
just need a no.4 injector pipe to complete and to remove a sheared thermo bolt.
 
If yer cant get the thermo bolt out, an engine machinist will be able to spark erode it out if they have the gear.
 
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