Firebobby1 · Oct 23, 2022

I know I know, it's a LR and they are designed to leak oil, but I have a leak which is getting worser and worser.
It seems to be from the front of the engine, so I've had a look and it seems to be coming from the sump gasket. I can't see oil above the sump area. Is this a known leak area on these engines, a d can I change it with the engine in

Disco1BFG · Oct 23, 2022

Yes, yes, and yes

… though I am aiming for no, yes, and yes

.. use a new cork gasket with red rtv… Mike at Britannica restorations did a good vid on it iirc..

And, … watch the torque setting on the bolts - it’s very low 10 or 11 Nm IIRC

Worth checking it’s not coming from the timing cover .. I.E. the crank nose seal ? Had that twice due OEM seals which had never seen OEM

Stanleysteamer · Oct 23, 2022

Firebobby1 said:
I know I know, it's a LR and they are designed to leak oil, but I have a leak which is getting worser and worser.
It seems to be from the front of the engine, so I've had a look and it seems to be coming from the sump gasket. I can't see oil above the sump area. Is this a known leak area on these engines, a d can I change it with the engine in

Check the sump itself isn't actually porous. This happened to me.

and check it hasn't at some time in the past been overtightened down as this warps the edge of the sump which will lead to leaks. You may be able to sort that out, if it is the case with some light persuasion!

Firebobby1 · Oct 24, 2022

Thanks both, I will check out the Britannica restorations video.
I've taken some photos.

steve24v · Oct 24, 2022

Looks to me like it's coming out of the timing cover hole, could possibly be the front crank seal.

Put a wading plug in and forget about it (I'm joking, don't do that

)

Firebobby1 · Oct 25, 2022

steve24v said:
Looks to me like it's coming out of the timing cover hole, could possibly be the front crank seal.

Put a wading plug in and forget about it (I'm joking, don't do that )

Is that a big job to repair the leak if it is the crank seal?

steve24v · Oct 25, 2022

I've never replaced one before, closest thing I've done is replaced the timing belt. Depending if your handy with the tools (you will need more than just basic tools) it's not too bad, just time consuming as the timing cover will need to come off so anything in the way of that will need removing. Loads of info on YouTube and probably on here of how to do it.

When was the timing belt last done on yours? If it needs replacing soon I would get it done then (can't remember when they're supposed to be changed, 30.000m maybe?)

Firebobby1 · Oct 26, 2022

steve24v said:
I've never replaced one before, closest thing I've done is replaced the timing belt. Depending if your handy with the tools (you will need more than just basic tools) it's not too bad, just time consuming as the timing cover will need to come off so anything in the way of that will need removing. Loads of info on YouTube and probably on here of how to do it.

When was the timing belt last done on yours? If it needs replacing soon I would get it done then (can't remember when they're supposed to be changed, 30.000m maybe?)

The belt was done about a year ago and about 1k miles. I'll have a look at what is involved.
Thanks for the info

Disco1BFG · Oct 26, 2022

To do the crank seal requires the belt off… but a newish belt can be re-used.. have a nosy at the glencoyne site.

personally, I would treat it as essentially like a belt change, so change the seal, keep the tensioner and idler pulleys, but replace the belt - not worth refitting for the £20 they cost.. Dayco or Gates only IME.

Don’t forget to replace the O ring behind the crank pulley.. seen that let go a few times

… but it is right in front of the oil pump, so has its work cut out for it

Use a Corteco seal, or expect to keep doing the job until you do…

www.glencoyne.co.uk/belt.him

steve24v · Oct 26, 2022

Firebobby1 said:
The belt was done about a year ago and about 1k miles.

That's a shame. If you can do the timing belt yourself then go for it, the seal can be replaced once the belt has been removed.

Firebobby1 · Oct 27, 2022

steve24v said:
That's a shame. If you can do the timing belt yourself then go for it, the seal can be replaced once the belt has been removed.

I've had a look at a you tube clip and removing the rad, grill and other bits, gives access, it's messing with the timing belt that I'm not so sure about.

steve24v · Oct 27, 2022

Not too bad to be honest, i followed the instructions in the Haynes manual. Take your time and you will be ok.

You will need a torque wrench to set the tension on the belt I used one like this which is recommended

83FE1175-6BD8-44AA-9336-C1F223849E79.thumb.jpeg.263ffe58e3312a7260e0613999744519.jpeg

Also some locking pins for the flywheel and injector pump.
Lastly a torque wrench to do the crank pully.
Might be something I missed as it was about 6 years ago when I did mine.

Firebobby1 · Oct 28, 2022

steve24v said:
Not too bad to be honest, i followed the instructions in the Haynes manual. Take your time and you will be ok.

You will need a torque wrench to set the tension on the belt I used one like this which is recommended
View attachment 276959

Also some locking pins for the flywheel and injector pump.
Lastly a torque wrench to do the crank pully.
Might be something I missed as it was about 6 years ago when I did mine.

Thanks muchly, but anything to do with timing belts or chains, scares the B Jesus out of me. Think I will have to farm this job out.

Disco1BFG · Oct 28, 2022

Firebobby1 said:
Thanks muchly, but anything to do with timing belts or chains, scares the B Jesus out of me. Think I will have to farm this job out.

it’s an easy job, but you NEED the right tools - the proper torque wrench for the tensioner, and another torque wrench for the crank nut. And the locking pins as post 12.. if you were closer, I’d cheerfully assist.. so, is there anyone closer to you that would help ?

Firebobby1 · Oct 28, 2022

Disco1BFG said:
it’s an easy job, but you NEED the right tools - the proper torque wrench for the tensioner, and another torque wrench for the crank nut. And the locking pins as post 12.. if you were closer, I’d cheerfully assist.. so, is there anyone closer to you that would help ?

I would like to have a go, but with someone else giving advice. I've been quoted £500 +vat for the labour plus parts on top of that, from a local Indy, I did say I would like to help, as it's a small place. He's not interested though.
I don't mind traveling

Firebobby1 · Nov 5, 2022

All fixed and was a lot cheaper in the end. He said that everything came apart like a dream and it took a lot less time.
Also said it's the cleanest D1 he's seen in years.

Firebobby1 · Jul 11, 2023

An update, it started leaking again, so I took it back and he said he put another seal in, but it's still leaking.
Now he's saying, he's not sure why it's leaking again.
I've lost confidence in him doing the job..or not, as it seems.
So still got a incontinent D1, which is not good.

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