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DeviousLandyGod

Active Member
I’ve a leak coming from the crank pulley seal.
3814A070-B383-4384-AD41-DBA98AF9BE44.jpeg

is it as easy as it looks to sort, assuming the nut comes off? Is it just slide the pulley out and hook out the seal and pop a new one in? The kit seems to come with some L shaped bits... of cork?

cheers
 
Have bought the right oil seal? The L shaped bits of cork are for doing the rear crank seal. Replacing the front oil seal is a walk in the park compared to doing the rear(engine out job). I usually remove front panel and rad,remove crankshaft starter dog,remove pulley,drop sump(unless you are okay with old rivets from retainer staying in sump),drill out seal retainer rivets then pop a new seal in. You may get lucky and this job has been done before and rivets replaced with self tappers thus negating the need to drop sump and removing front to gain drilling access. Of course the pulley oil seal running surface could be worn too causing the drip. Renew or Speedie sleeve it
 
Having done a few of these I would buy a new pully. Unless recently changed the old one will have a groove worn in and will leak again. Otherwise proceed as Nathan describes. Copious cups of tea can help.....
 
Can’t find the screws in stock anywhere. Anyone know what size self tappers are needed? I assume they screw into the rivet holes that are left? Otherwise they’ll leak? Or will some gasket sealant go behind the mud guard retainer thing.

also, can someone definitively confirm a 41mm socket or spanner will fit? Seems theres conflicting info on tinternet.... guess I should just measure it... but it’s raining :rolleyes:

thanks again for the help
 
41mm ? I thought it is 1" Whitworth but 41mm may be close ?
Late series three's had a mix of Whit UNF-UNC A/F and metric sizes but the metric stuff was all in the smaller sizes.
 
I have feeling its 1" Whit which is 42mm or 1 11/16. !" Whit spanners are dirt cheap if you can find one as there's no demand. I have a selection of large spanners from boot sales as you can pack them to fit with a few bits of off cut. By the time you get to 2" its not critical.
 
Ok, update. Tried changing the seal the “lazy” way, and it didn’t go so well. A 1” whit socket was perfect and the impact wrench made easy work removing the nut. Pulley came off ok too. Then drilled the rivet heads off, and the mud thingy duly came off. Then seal came out easily...

Popped the new seal in but whilst in situ was tricky and it didn’t look quite right, yet the lip looked straight. So replaced the mud thing and then went to screw some self tappers in. Going ok, then as I finished tightening them the heads started to snap off!! Enough stayed on, but overall not happy. Bad job, seal possibly damaged and the rivets knocking around in the sump...

So, ordered new seal and some bolts and went about doing it properly, and took the sump off.

6F0269DF-FD73-4168-9F50-463574B2DCBE.jpeg


Bit over engineered, but at least the seal is straight and no snapped fixings. Plus, used a double lip seal this time.
 
There was a similar problem, before changing the oil, I inspected the car, usually, a leak in this place is associated with the pulley seal, after replacing the problem disappeared. I started using good oil, here you can see a comparison of two leading brands Pennzoil Ultra Platinum vs Amsoil Oil Comparison https://davesoilchange.com/pennzoil-ultra-platinum-vs-amsoil/, and focus on one of them now I choose Pennzoil Ultra Platinum.
 
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