Raider td5
Active Member
lol... yes thats one way to do it but its all nice and sealed from factory I don't really wanna open it up without reason.
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
if it's hard to start that bleed valve could be a reason, and you'll not know if it is or it isn't the reason until you don't replace ir with a new one.... simple as that... or why did you buy it if you don't want to replace it
Raider td5
Active Member
I want to replace it but I wanna make sure it is there which I have, asked a friend to check it on microcat for my chassis number and my car does use it!
Ruari
Active Member
Both the non-return & the air filter are fitted to my td5 defender (2000) and to a mates td5 110.
Looking at the filter housing from the wheel arch - rear end nearest to you is the port with the air bleed. 19mm spanner and unscrew it. You will soon know. If you re-fit it replace the copper washer.
Non return is front end nearest chassis rail. Again change copper washer.
Check the filter head, it is quite common for them to corrode where the spigots screw in. Possible drawing air as it's corroded to far. WJN000020 is the new filter head at £80 app.
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Raider td5
Active Member
Thanks for the details... I will be replacing it tomorrow!
OakleyPilot
New Member
As to cleaning for the loom and the ECU, isopropyl alcohol is usually pretty easy to obtain (Maplins). It will effectively flush oils and residue from the wires and is also totally non-conductive and fast drying. When I did mine I used first WD40 to thin the oil in the wire and the plug and also to drive out any moisture in the loom then used liberal amounts of isopropyl, worked a treat.
