OMG:eek:... I hope i'll not find that out on my own experience o_O ... though i'll make serious research to find something to avoid that and act accordingly when the time comes

have to remove the belts cover to check if it is the modified oil cover or not , only way to prevent it is to replace it

imagine you’ve seen the difference , enclosed some pics , top right hand side u will see a reinforcement webbing on the cover

seems to be from 2007 onwards, however even from 2005 there were reports of them breaking , mine was replaced at the same time the belts were done, inc the rear belt

83FB1503-8E22-4E26-93D9-A9F798F46854.jpeg
44C031C8-8440-46F9-8C54-AD50C06EDB35.jpeg
C04E5168-365F-4BDB-965D-35C66EC87B14.jpeg
7763F979-485A-4A92-91ED-3FB1C4EF5D42.jpeg
 
have to remove the belts cover to check if it is the modified oil cover or not , only way to prevent it is to replace it

imagine you’ve seen the difference , enclosed some pics , top right hand side u will see a reinforcement webbing on the cover

seems to be from 2007 onwards, however even from 2005 there were reports of them breaking , mine was replaced at the same time the belts were done, inc the rear belt

View attachment 135201 View attachment 135202 View attachment 135203 View attachment 135205
 
I understand that too but i'd rather put some dedicated additive which is filling gaps and stick to the proper synthetic oil cos if it gets cold the thick oil will climb slowly from the sump up to the head and the wear will increase untill it starts making it's job also the turbocharger wont like the thick mineral oil either.... maybe because we get down to -25*C in the winter here makes me so reluctant about oils cos even if my engine would rattle like hell i won't put 10W oil in it to ruin it worst.
I've always put in a bottle of lucas oil fortifier, in my D2-used it in my trucks, really looked after the engines.
 
here’s a pic of the rear D3 belt, ( all belts can be replaced without the body or engine removed )

experienced mechanic can replace the rear belt and bearing in around 40 x mins

B28BDAFA-BB3E-455E-BD00-10CE09FFD9B3.jpeg
 
Last edited:
aplogises that pic confused matters , lol, just put a note next to it

just put the pic there to show where the rear belt was , body and engine doesn’t have to be removed

all the belts can be replaced in situ
Aye that's what I thought by those with experience, I bought my 06 D3 with 98,000 on the clock, with the proviso that the belts were changed, I have a bad feeling they only changed the easier front belt, its, a year later done 112k and it's always at the back of my mind it was not done, how much would this cost me at a garage.
 
Aye that's what I thought by those with experience, I bought my 06 D3 with 98,000 on the clock, with the proviso that the belts were changed, I have a bad feeling they only changed the easier front belt, its, a year later done 112k and it's always at the back of my mind it was not done, how much would this cost me at a garage.

the rear belt controls the fuel pump , as far as i’m aware that if it broke it wouldn’t damage the engine , but please don’t take that as gospel as i’m not 100% sure

have they checked the oil pump cover as well

i didn’t go to a garage but know someone up ur way who i can put u in touch with , he’s from the discovery 3 forum and knows his stuff and an experienced mechanic , who does everything on D3s , has got a very good reputation

plse let me know and i can contact him for u, believe he’s in dundee
 
the rear belt controls the fuel pump , as far as i’m aware that if it broke it wouldn’t damage the engine , but please don’t take that as gospel as i’m not 100% sure

have they checked the oil pump cover as well

i didn’t go to a garage but know someone up ur way who i can put u in touch with , he’s from the discovery 3 forum and knows his stuff and an experienced mechanic , who does everything on D3s , has got a very good reputation

plse let me know and i can contact him for u, believe he’s in dundee
That sounds great, but at present I am sitting on my hands until I start earning a wage, Dundee is hours away, so half a shift there, should he be up for the travel, but yes great to know, and thanks again.
 
That sounds great, but at present I am sitting on my hands until I start earning a wage, Dundee is hours away, so half a shift there, should he be up for the travel, but yes great to know, and thanks again.

ur very welcome , plse just send me a PM and i can put u in touch with him when ever ur ready

is also good the knowledge base is also growing on here for D3s
 
Bare on mind a td5 engine is way way cheaper to source secondhand and way way easier to remove and refit than the tdv6 lump.
Td5 is in old ****ter territory and it wont be to long before the 2.7 tdv6 is there as well, its just when the v6 goes wrong its a lot more hassle/cost to fix.
Some people on the D3 forum are running 5/40 oil in their 2.7s.
 
Bare on mind a td5 engine is way way cheaper to source secondhand and way way easier to remove and refit than the tdv6 lump.
Td5 is in old ****ter territory and it wont be to long before the 2.7 tdv6 is there as well, its just when the v6 goes wrong its a lot more hassle/cost to fix.

hi mate

ur not wrong there ref the TDV6 engine, think there around 5k for a recon engine
 
Bare on mind a td5 engine is way way cheaper to source secondhand and way way easier to remove and refit than the tdv6 lump.
Td5 is in old ****ter territory and it wont be to long before the 2.7 tdv6 is there as well, its just when the v6 goes wrong its a lot more hassle/cost to fix.
Yes I have realised the D3 requires deeper pockets, got two D2's and one D3, .
 

Similar threads