I sustain the red part even though the workshop manual doesnt say anything about full syn :
I would use that Halfords oil in my D3 as it meets the specs but I choose not to as I can buy fully synthetic ford oil from Asda for £13 for 5 litre so bought 8 cartons of that and change it twice yearly even though I only do about 6K miles a year. By the way the Halfords oil spec states ford engines upto 2005, as mine is a 2009 it’s not correct for mineI sustain the red part even though the workshop manual doesnt say anything about full syn :
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here's a semi syn which matches the recommendation http://www.halfords.com/motoring/en...-oil/halfords-5w30-part-synthetic-ford-oil-5l
if we corroborate this discussion with the other about the oils for Td5 where i insisted to use full synthetic oil for a turbocharged engine cos it's better and i was contradicted i presume that those who recommended the semi syn or mineral oil for the Td5 would use semi syn in a TDV6 too not a fully synthetic one
Off course that i'm still insisting to use only fully synthetic even if it's not mentioned in the manual.
Those are included within the other "most of the latest high efficiency engines" , but simplifying things the last statement "This oil is also suitable where ACEA A1/B1 or Ford WSS-M2C-913-A/B are recommended" makes it match the recommendation for the D3 which is for all modells between '05 - '09 in that docment issued in 2016 i pasted.... my point is that the oils get better and better each year and if somebody loves his engine will not put older spec or inferior oil in it, for me the oil area was not one where saving money is a factor ...i'm seriously thinking to get a D3 or 4 soon and i'm sure i'll not put a semy synth oil in the engine even if it meets the specs
No light, but I like to know what's going on, hence post, its a crap design, with lots of confusing oil coloured segments.
believe me or not but IMO fixing a rattling engine by filling it with thicker oil is not the way to go on a long run ...provided the oil in it was the correct spec cos i doubt that you can find the same correct spec synthetic and mineral oils.
You’ll probably find out once you’ve a D3 the oil pump fracturing is more of a concern than the oil
OMG
... I hope i'll not find that out on my own experience ... though i'll make serious research to find something to avoid that and act accordingly when the time comes
I understand where you are coming from, but their are two sides to every coin, as a mechanical engineer, (Ex BA) I appreciate the fit between metallic components, and all my older vehicles, be they 20 year old discos, 40 year old kawasaki motorcycle, 60 year old tractors and so on run happier with thicker oil, not oil with the consistency of water, when a modern vehicle is constructed, the tolerances are much tighter ie tenths of a thou as opposed to a single thou (typically the bore to piston clearance on my Harley Davidson) anyway I digress, when the modern unit has hundreds of thousands of miles of wear on the parts, the gaps need more attention to filling, the synthetic oils tending not to achieve this, UNLESS fortified with expensive additives, hence my change of oil, it riles me when the young MECHANIC (read parts swapper, sorry) says ah but the book says, this is the oil in the spec mate, correct son FOR A NEW ENGINE.
