crikey, that was prob the cause of all the hassles. still think how fresh and good your engine will be when its rebuilt, its gonna prob be the best NA in the land
Fine job!, thing is once its done you know for sure its done right! these motors are great, not fast by a long way, but they are fit for purpose and easy to fix, so reckon it will be time well spent
I'm hoping for a quieter, smoother engine with a bit more umph up to speed and up hills but same top end speed. Also expecting it to not eat oil and hoping to seal a few leaks in the gear boxes. Still a few jobs on list once all this is done but getting her running again is priority.
Slow and steady mate. It's been hard getting permission to work on the Landy lately but slowly getting it all cleaned up.
I'm cleaning the chassis whilst it's engineless and giving it some paint. Block is still with shop, other than a rebore everything else was ok. Injectors and pump are also with shop, not heard back on them yet. Found another dodgey bit, pivot for clutch arm was completely gone. Now replaced.
I'm surprised how many little things were wrong and it was still happy plodding along. Hopefully only 3 more weeks and I'll be able to go out for a drive, can't wait!
Tested the new Nato paint, really shows how faded the old paint is;
Painted the bulkhead with some POR15 rubberised coating to aid sound proofing;
Painted Chassis in engine bay with POR15, only tops of rails, and front end were rusty;
Finished off head, valves lapped and cleaned. Painted a few of the ancilliarys black;
Cleaned and painted sump;
Tomorrow I need to replace the live wire to the ignition and thru to the glow plugs, due to a short melting it. Does anyone know if its straight forward replacement i.e. new wire starter to ignition, then new wire ignition to glows? I've noticed at the glow plug end there are 2 brown with red trace wires which both are crimped to the one eyelet. I have some thin 60amp wire to re-do the circuits.
Block is now back and in. Managed to get it all built up yesterday ready for a start, it started to catch but wouldn't go. Eventually it ran on throttle but nearly stalled off, initially i thought it'd be idle screw adjustment but when i got round to the engine bay water was ****ing out the head gasket. Engine was only running for under a minute, barly got warm.
I've stripped head back off and I hope it is just that i hadn't put the new hot spots in far enough, they left quite an indent in the head gasket. All but No.3 piston had carbon on so i think it was No.3 that wasn't sealed properly.
I have now given the hot spots more of a wallop and with a feeler guage at 0.75mm they are only protruding about 1/3 of this, so in spec. Head is now back on waiting for a new pushrod (bent whilst setting tappets due to roller issue and me being a muppet). Oil came out mid-grey colour so lots of contamination. It's now sat empty.
My thoughts are to replace the oil filter, drop sump and clean off, fill with new oil. Start and run engine till nice and warm, then drain out and replace oil and filter. Then run it till the 500mile running period is up and change again.
Bent push-rod. This is because I hadn't backed the rocker arm off as it had been set with the flat-spotted roller. I must have bent it as it was pushing the vlave too far into the engine when setting the clearances.
Milky oil, luckily it was quite runny but a horrible colour.
Sump off and cleaned. Was a little sludgy but came out no-bother.
Fortunately inside the engine was looking clean which was a relief. I was expecting light grey mess everywhere!
Possible causes of this are me being inpatient and torquing the nuts only once straight up to 130Nm, and the hot spots being too proud evident by the big depressions in the head gasket. (ignore scratches, they are from when I removed gasket and threw on floor)
Hopefully between Friday and Saturday evenings I'll be ready for attempt No.2 at starting. I can't see anything else wrong and the head is un-cracked and can't see any sign of warpage. I'll definetaly gradually torque the nuts up and triple check the torque. If i get a repeat of it failing there must be something more sinister wrong with the mating faces, but we'll wait and see what happens
It's alive. Had to charge the battery first but finally kicked into life, I'd also got the oil pressure and stop solenoid wrong way round. Few leaky coolant hoses tightened and sump leaked oil till I nipped those bolts up.
seem to have pump timing pretty close but will tweak it next weekend. Just a tiny tad on the blue/white smokey side under throttle with an occasional knocking. Much smoother especially with new clutch, glad its finally done!
The book of lies (haynes) and workshop manual both said 0.7mm max and I reckon I got them in to 0.3mm or less. Gave their recesses a good clean out beforehand and definitely gave em a good wallop.
so far all seems good but I have yet to run it up to full speed, tweak fuel or guage if I have any oil loss. May get time to play with it this weekend.
Sorry image is a bit big, posting via smart phone. I was really surprised how much it can protrude by and this is a 3rd manual I've checked, I definitely thought it'd need to be far flusher than this.
it is 1 thou minimum ,3 thou max ,1 thou is .025mm 3 thou is .076 mm ,which is enough to clamp them into head but not enough to cause sealing issues, anymore is a problem whatever typos you find in manuals
I didn't notice that actually, must be a typo looking at it now. surprising it's gotten into all 3 manuals though 2 were probably written from the 1 which was wrong in the first place.
My new hot spots were not as flush as that so if I havent been lucky with a seal this time I know where to look. I'm surprised as I was walloping mine with a lump hammer and bit of hardwood to protect head and couldn't get em any further in. Will invest in hide-faced mallet next time.