R

roadster

New Member
Hi all
Did the discs and pads on my wifes `06 TD4 auto, went really well thanks to the great help I got from you all. However, I decided to do oil and filter as well. Now, on the `52 reg we had 6 months ago, it wasn`t too bad getting the belly plate off. This one, well I nearly ended up driving it into a wall. How do I get to the front 2 bolts holding the belly plate, without having to force the plastic covering it away, and using all sorts of weird and wonderful tools? Does the whole middle part of the front come off? :confused:
 
On the facelift models access to the front to bolts is not as easy, I remove the 2 screws each side holding the ends of the front bumper in place this gives a bit more access then use an air ratchet on the bolts but it can be done using a slim ratchet.
 
I find using the suction method to change the oil much easier as I'm too lazy to remove the cover, also saves me crawling under the car (oh to be young again)
 
Im using the same method, vacuum pump. Quicker and easier. Resting the engine undercover above me and trying to find the holes takes too long. Been there with my old MR2.

I believe the modern Mercedes dont have sump plug and have to have the oil sucked out!
 
I put my 05 TD4 up on ramps when I changed the oil a few months ago, gave me a bit more space to crawl about under. The bolts your talking about was a bit of a pig but I did manage to remove/replace them using normal 1/2" drive sockets and extensions.
I have now purchased wobble extension bars just to make access a bit easier next time.
All the best
Dave
 
not a good thing just sucking the oil out for one thing you do not get all the gunge out and another it is no good for your tummy
 
Drill out two large(socket sized) holes in the plastic and then pop a grommet back in when you have finished.
Unless you get down and grovel on the floor you can't see them.
 
Take it to Kwik Fit the do the Freelander oil and filter change using Mobil full synth for £34 and take the pan off and put back for that - that's 6 lts oils and filter and their usual all round car check which you thank them for but don't act on anything!

Seriously if you get to know them you can watch chat and go underneath for a visual all for £34 inc vat - bargain
 
cremator said:
mobil it is not may say it on drum but it anit that not for 34 uk pounds
Click to expand...

It is Mobil 3000 Kwik Fit buy it in huge bulk Nationally and the price by engine size - TD4 is under 2lts so it's in that band - sometimes these big concerns work to our advantage.
 
Yes I watched them do it - to be fair I have been there a few times now and it's always good with them - the fit Unipart filters and replace the rubber sealing ring. They have this ISO thing to adhere to donuts all by the book - they even check water, wipers, lights and Tyres and pressures free ( try and sell you wipers of course!)

They have always been good to me and I don't buy anything else off them nor do I have any connection with them.

I have mentioned this deal in the site before and one guy said his local Kwik Fit wouldn't do it - I don't understand that as its a service nationally - anyhow they do here in West Wales. You cannot buy the oil to do it yourself for this price.
 
just picked up gm dexos 2 5w30 fully synth for 17.50 for 5l, genuine filter for a fiver and a silverline extraction pump for 15 quid, so will be doing mine myself every 6 months from now on... :)
 
roadster said:
Hi all
Did the discs and pads on my wifes `06 TD4 auto, went really well thanks to the great help I got from you all. However, I decided to do oil and filter as well. Now, on the `52 reg we had 6 months ago, it wasn`t too bad getting the belly plate off. This one, well I nearly ended up driving it into a wall. How do I get to the front 2 bolts holding the belly plate, without having to force the plastic covering it away, and using all sorts of weird and wonderful tools? Does the whole middle part of the front come off? :confused:
Click to expand...
Hi , the undertray frame is a pig to remove , after removing mine for the first time, I decided to drill out the pop rivets retaining the plastic cover, and I now use long tie wraps one each side through the existing holes, together with the two retaining bolts at the rear of the cover to retain it. Since doing this it just takes 5 mins. to remove the cover. :)
 

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did my oil change today, extraction pump worked better than I was expecting. it removed just under 6 litres in about 15 minutes :) even used it to suck out the last dregs of the old oil in the bottom of the filter housing. so refilled with nice new 5w-30 fully synth and a gen filter and all done in around 35 minutes, which was a bonus considering it was -3 today.

one tip i picked up on here but will add to this thread anyway is to put a plastic bag over the end of the alternator before you remove the filter as you WILL spill old oil all over it and old engine oil in the armature will kill it....
 
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Ian jones said:
Hi , the undertray frame is a pig to remove , after removing mine for the first time, I decided to drill out the pop rivets retaining the plastic cover, and I now use long tie wraps one each side through the existing holes, together with the two retaining bolts at the rear of the cover to retain it. Since doing this it just takes 5 mins. to remove the cover. :)
Click to expand...

I must be missing something here! :confused:

I do all my maintenance on the driveway in front of my garage so for me the difficult part of the job is finding and flattening a cardboard box to lie on.

I have 4 pieces of 150mm X 50mm (6" X 2" - for those living in a parallel universe) which I run the wheels on to.

Placing the cardboard carefully underneath, I just wiggle my way underneath, whip out all the necessary bolts and screws, using a 1/4" drive socket set with a universal joint, a screwdriver and a ring spanner, and then drop the undertray.

I have never had any problem with this job.

I have made a point of changing the oil myself since the LR main dealer bent the front part of the under-bumper valance on my 2002 Freelander.

The apprentice mechanic given the task couldn't get a socket on the front bolts. Maybe he didn't have as comprehensive a tool-box as I have built up over the years.

Caio,
Singvogel. :cool:
 
I do all the above well almost I just watch the Kwik Fit guy do the spannering.

I do a other work mostly myself but since discovering £34 oil and filter changes I have to admit to a bit if lazyness.
 
:):)
Singvogel said:
I must be missing something here! :confused:

I do all my maintenance on the driveway in front of my garage so for me the difficult part of the job is finding and flattening a cardboard box to lie on.

I have 4 pieces of 150mm X 50mm (6" X 2" - for those living in a parallel universe) which I run the wheels on to.

Placing the cardboard carefully underneath, I just wiggle my way underneath, whip out all the necessary bolts and screws, using a 1/4" drive socket set with a universal joint, a screwdriver and a ring spanner, and then drop the undertray.

I have never had any problem with this job.

I have made a point of changing the oil myself since the LR main dealer bent the front part of the under-bumper valance on my 2002 Freelander.

The apprentice mechanic given the task couldn't get a socket on the front bolts. Maybe he didn't have as comprehensive a tool-box as I have built up over the years.

Caio,
Singvogel. :cool:
Click to expand...
Hi Sing , geting the frame off (05 facelift ) easy , due to gravity , the pig was lifting it back up , i had to get my son to help me lift it back up and aline to fix the bolts , hence my mod , it take 5 mins now to remove the plastic cover , why make an oil change more difficult or any task for that matter :)
 
markyzs180 said:
bet thats tricky getting each wheel to balance on a 2" wide piece of wood........:p ;):D
Click to expand...

Cheeky sod - didn't you do woodwork at school?? Ha ha.

There are 4 pieces each of them about 2ft long x 6" x 2" - a sort of improvised 'hippo-ramps.'

S. :D
 
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