speeddemon4x4boblol

speeddemon4x4boblol

Member
hi all
So after alot of thought and with alot of whats the worse that can happen
i put some oil additive into my 2ltr auto freelander .
before i put it in i was getting alot of smoke from exaust
and the engine was noisy having done 129k plus acceleration was not intstant
but after putting it in on a warm engine and taking it for a drive for 20min
the stuff bonds to all the parts that have worn
its expencive but wow its made a hell of a difference
having drove around now for couple of hundred miles
no noise at start up no smoke an instant acceleration
the engine feels alot less stressed revs so easy only having only to touch
the throttle.
the stuff is = extralube zx1
 
I've tested lots of these products over the years, concluding that they are simply snake oils and don't work. Maybe I should test this one again? At least it worked for you. Or are you selling the stuff?
 
Last edited:
Nodge68 said:
I've tested lots of these products over the years, concluding the they simple snake oils and don't work. Maybe I should test this one again? At least it worked for you. Or are you selling the stuff?
Click to expand...
I'm the same as you. I don't believe in the stuff. I have a sprinter which is just coming up to 600.000, never put any additives in and it runs like a dream I had a Renault Scenic which had 300.000 never had any additives and also ran very well. I find a good blast on the motorway sorts a lot of problems out; When my Defender feels a bit sluggish I take it out for a good run, it comes back feeling like a new engine.
 
speeddemon4x4boblol said:
hi all
So after alot of thought and with alot of whats the worse that can happen
i put some oil additive into my 2ltr auto freelander .
before i put it in i was getting alot of smoke from exaust
and the engine was noisy having done 129k plus acceleration was not intstant
but after putting it in on a warm engine and taking it for a drive for 20min
the stuff bonds to all the parts that have worn
its expencive but wow its made a hell of a difference
having drove around now for couple of hundred miles
no noise at start up no smoke an instant acceleration
the engine feels alot less stressed revs so easy only having only to touch
the throttle.
the stuff is = extralube zx1
Click to expand...

Nice advert. Do you get a bonus for plugging it?
 
maybe your oil needed changing that's why it was noisy as you can tell when a diesel engine is over due an oil change is by the noise
 
ok thanks for the reply's i just thought i'd put it out there
and see what the thoughts were .
and no i'm not selling it and the oil did not need changing
as id just changed it the week before i put the stuff in
and it was still as loud on the new oil
so thought id give it a try.
i think its gona be a case of wait and see
fingers crossed hey.
 
While most of these are snake oil, zx stuff contains something that they use to harden drills I believe?

Now in day to day driving this means that you won't notice anything because it requires metal on metal contact to bond iirc. But, if you've got something scraping/clattering away because its contacting it might just bond and make the noise go away?

For the record I'm of the opinion that there's no substitute for good oil in the first place, but when youve got impending mechanical failure/something sticking like a ring it might be worth a punt as a last limp into the scrapyard.
 
what i like about zx1 is that it will mix with water
i've got a couple of capfuls in the coolant .. for the water pump and thermostat ..
( could say as a bit of insurance )
also a capful in the power-steering fluid
( had a bit of a squeal on a left hand hard lock corner .. be gone now )
i usually add 60ml to engine oil at change time ..
what's left over goes into my fuel mix
 
B34R said:
While most of these are snake oil, zx stuff contains something that they use to harden drills I believe?

Now in day to day driving this means that you won't notice anything because it requires metal on metal contact to bond iirc. But, if you've got something scraping/clattering away because its contacting it might just bond and make the noise go away?

For the record I'm of the opinion that there's no substitute for good oil in the first place, but when youve got impending mechanical failure/something sticking like a ring it might be worth a punt as a last limp into the scrapyard.
Click to expand...
lol mmmmm not thought of that u right
but i did not hear any bad sounds b4 putting it in
i just want to preserve whats left 4 as long as i can
as it takes a good while to save up the money to buy another car
 
hd3 said:
what i like about zx1 is that it will mix with water
i've got a couple of capfuls in the coolant .. for the water pump and thermostat ..
( could say as a bit of insurance )
also a capful in the power-steering fluid
( had a bit of a squeal on a left hand hard lock corner .. be gone now )
i usually add 60ml to engine oil at change time ..
what's left over goes into my fuel mix
Click to expand...
I'm very pleased to know you have used zx1 two (hd3)
i didn't go as far as putting it in coolent and steering but wow
you have had good results two
a mad thing is happening though the engine is getting even better
and this even after doing 300miles since it went in.
smoother and starts very fast from cold.
so maybe when i clean the egr out i can find a way to use some zx1 on that ??????
 
so maybe when i clean the egr out i can find a way to use some zx1 on that ??????
Click to expand...
best thing is to get rid of the egr valve .. and replace it with an 'egr bypass' unit
engine will run better .. mpg will increase ..and the bypass unit won't cause problems

the egr valve gets a mixture of oil-mist from the turbo .. and exhaust gas ..
the result is a baked on oily mess that ends up making the valve stick
and clogs up the air intake tube ..
( that same oily mess ends up coating the inside of the intake manifold as well
( and restricting intake air-flow ..
( many folk here have removed the manifold and cleaned it out

the bypass unit has nothing inside to restrict air movement ..
egr_bypass09.jpg

( the cheaper option is just to disconnect .. and block off .. the egr vacuum hose )
~~~~~~~~~~

as for power steering .. careful not to overfill as it seems to make the steering heavier ( harder )
probably not good for the system either
( easy to use a syringe to remove excess )
~~~~~~~~

if anyone questions what i've used zx1 for .. potential vehicle applications are on their product sheet ..
( not sure i'd chance it on the gearbox .. even though they say it's ok with synchromesh types )
 
Last edited:
hey hd3 i have thought of doing just that binning the egr valve
but i have one worry the mot test on nx'o exaust smoke.
i've not even looked at it yet but i think as you have said its gona be a mess.
and no i'm not going anywhere near the gearbox.
my son who is a mechanic for Eh Douglas and works on all land rovers
even taking the bodies off just to change blown turbos.
he has said do not touch the gearbox leave it to us.
if you have any probs. but i gota say its a bloody good box.
 
EGR only affects driving NOX emissions. These aren't tested at on the MOT ;)
Nothing complex about the Jatco auto as long as the correct oil change procedure is followed.
 
ok i did try the car with the vac pipe blocked off
and it did not like it one bit (being an auto)
was flat as a pancake would not pull a skin off a rice pudding lol
 
i did try the car with the vac pipe blocked off
and it did not like it one bit (being an auto)
was flat as a pancake would not pull a skin off a rice pudding
Click to expand...

quite a few here with td4 auto-gearbox's have deleted the egr valve
without any problems occurring ..

with the egr vacuum feed disconnected .. and blocked ..
the return spring inside the unit should hold the valve closed
and thereby blocking the intake of ( cooled ) exhaust gas

( unless there's something about the td4 auto box related to the vacuum system that i'm unaware of
( i only know as much about the 'auto' from reading LZ posts .. might have missed something

if you disconnected and blocked off the egr vacuum feed .. then
either your egr valve is stuck open .. letting in exhaust gas all the time
or .. given the engine went 'flat' .. you disconnected the turbo solenoid vacuum feed by mistake
( or maybe the intercooler hose joins .. egr seat seal .. be loose / leaking
( but that scenario would include black smoke from the exhaust most probably

" Freelander TD4: Dealing with the EGR "
http://www.nikrivers.com/freelander-td4/dealing-with-the-egr/

some diagrams ( for when the egr is deleted/bypassed )
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/where-does-this-go.223312/#post-2536215
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

 
Are you sure that you blocked the EGR valve vacuum pipe and not the turbo vent or vacuum pipe. The engine will run better with the EGR blocked.
 
errrrrrm **** ok i hope i got the right one but i put it back the way it was
and it was brought back to life.
the one i blocked off is the easy one to get to
the one on top if you look in one of the pics( hd3 )has very kindly sent
the one arrowed black.
mmmmmm so ive left well alone
as its getting cold out there and
u know what they say if it aint broke bloody dont play in the winter
or when xmas is fast upon us lol
 
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