What did you actually do?

i see pics but no real explaination of what was happening?

Were your rims banded out?

Flipped the centres?

After market rims?
 
Oh ok sorry dieseldog. I was in a bit of a rush when i posted this. started to make a thread then the phone ran.. cut it short and off to work again (thinking a picture will tell a thousand words)
You are on the money with "Flipped the centres" by pressing out the centers and then simply flipping the rims, welded the centers back in again equals the off set to the standard d1 rims i used.
Before this i was running 265/75r16 tyers front and rear. This size tyer worked well adding a bit of lift ( note. using this size one can run MT's on the rear using stock standard rims) But only able to run all all terrain tyres on the front, plus in doing that, at full steering lock the tyres would hitt/rub the front radius arms. With the off set (flipped) rims MTs at this size can be fitted all round and still stay in side the body line of the vehicle.. See last pic.
 
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I saw a 90 the other day that appeared to be running standard rims just turned inside out...... No sign of the valve on the outside.
 
Yes well godzilla that would be a quick fix and basically the same off set would be reached. Not exactly how i roll though, i at least try to do things with a little class.
 
Iv seen a lot of people turn these wheels inside out and just drill a hole for a valve.. Looks good but I would not advise this at all they need welding properly.. ;)
 
For obvious reasons Dusty, one being it has to be air tight for a tubeless tyre, another strength. (As it is.. the early LR diso rims are one of the strongest steel rims available for a 4x4) So doing what i have done has to retain that (in my opinion). I still have one rim to go (the spare) before i get a tyer fitted, i will take and post a picture or two of the inner band welds.
 

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