StuckAgainSteve
Well-Known Member
If you've skimmed a head, pay careful attention to the lifter preload on that bank, you may have to fit rocker shaft pedestal shims to cater for the head skim.
If you've skimmed a head, pay careful attention to the lifter preload on that bank, you may have to fit rocker shaft pedestal shims to cater for the head skim.
customknight
Active Member
I've just looked for it and it isn't in my list of previously started threads so I've either made it all up and lost the plot, or its vanished. 
customknight
Active Member
I haven't received the product yet, plus I'm replacing the valley gasket which I'm waiting for. Should arrive tomorrow or wed so ill let you know.
I have to drive the truck with the sealer in for three days so ill keep you informed as I go on.
Head back on now too so just a waiting game.
I have to drive the truck with the sealer in for three days so ill keep you informed as I go on.
Head back on now too so just a waiting game.
customknight
Active Member
UPDATE
Before I do anything I have to say that I am in no way affiliated to anyone or anything to do with Irontite or the company that manufacture it. I simply want to try it as a last resort.
So i've rebuilt the top end using new stuff and spent all day with my new items...
It comes with very detailed instructions which have to be followed to the LETTER apparently. So I did!
The cooling system was flushed and back flushed with clean water over and over again.
The Irontite flush was added to 4.5 litres of clean water in a tub, mixed and added to the RADIATOR.
The car was run up to temperature and once operating temp was obtained it was run for ten minutes EXACTLY.
(Note: I have bypassed the LPG system and the heater matrix for this fix)
Once that was complete the engine was switched off and allowed to cool for several hours.
The cooling system was flushed and back flushed with clean water over and over again, again! (While this was happening I was being fed fresh scones with jam and cream by a friend who popped in to say hi.....I think she saved my sanity!)
The Irontite Ceramic Sealer was shaken to death and added to 2 litres of clean water as instructed, then it was added to the RADIATOR.
The cooling system was then topped up with fresh water and usual bleeding and air removal methods were used to make sure there were no airlocks in the system (if there are Irontite will react with it and start to set).
I have run the engine for 30 minutes at operating temp to make sure all is good and then driven home which is 14 miles. We are going to dinner tonight in the Rangey which is probably about 5 miles so we'll see if it is in hydraulic lock again when I go out and attempt to start it!
I must add that after the engine had run for 30 minutes with the sealer in, it STOPPED STEAMING, which is hadn't done before. In fact with the flush in it, it was steaming like a kitchen vegetable steamer so there was obviously coolant going through the cylinder. See this video for steam amount!
RR P38 Cracked Block steam display - YouTube
It is recommended that the engine be run with the ceramic sealer in it for 300 miles (or 4 hours) although I don't know whether my wallet can handle 300 miles of pure unadulterated unleaded use I have to speak to the company I bought it from to see whether I have to follow the mileage or the time guides. As you see 300 miles is about 4 hours on a motorway but 4 hours is not 300 miles on everyday commutes. Dilemma.
Before I do anything I have to say that I am in no way affiliated to anyone or anything to do with Irontite or the company that manufacture it. I simply want to try it as a last resort.
So i've rebuilt the top end using new stuff and spent all day with my new items...
It comes with very detailed instructions which have to be followed to the LETTER apparently. So I did!
The cooling system was flushed and back flushed with clean water over and over again.
The Irontite flush was added to 4.5 litres of clean water in a tub, mixed and added to the RADIATOR.
The car was run up to temperature and once operating temp was obtained it was run for ten minutes EXACTLY.
(Note: I have bypassed the LPG system and the heater matrix for this fix)
Once that was complete the engine was switched off and allowed to cool for several hours.
The cooling system was flushed and back flushed with clean water over and over again, again!
(While this was happening I was being fed fresh scones with jam and cream by a friend who popped in to say hi.....I think she saved my sanity!) The Irontite Ceramic Sealer was shaken to death and added to 2 litres of clean water as instructed, then it was added to the RADIATOR.
The cooling system was then topped up with fresh water and usual bleeding and air removal methods were used to make sure there were no airlocks in the system (if there are Irontite will react with it and start to set).
I have run the engine for 30 minutes at operating temp to make sure all is good and then driven home which is 14 miles. We are going to dinner tonight in the Rangey which is probably about 5 miles so we'll see if it is in hydraulic lock again when I go out and attempt to start it!
I must add that after the engine had run for 30 minutes with the sealer in, it STOPPED STEAMING, which is hadn't done before. In fact with the flush in it, it was steaming like a kitchen vegetable steamer
so there was obviously coolant going through the cylinder. See this video for steam amount!RR P38 Cracked Block steam display - YouTube
It is recommended that the engine be run with the ceramic sealer in it for 300 miles (or 4 hours) although I don't know whether my wallet can handle 300 miles of pure unadulterated unleaded use
I have to speak to the company I bought it from to see whether I have to follow the mileage or the time guides. As you see 300 miles is about 4 hours on a motorway but 4 hours is not 300 miles on everyday commutes. Dilemma.
Last edited:
customknight
Active Member
Let's hope so! I've done 50 miles now and have only used a tiny amount of water so far. Looking good. The misfire on cylinder 4 has been reduced from a constant miss to an occasional splutter, so that is good news.
There is no longer and hesitance in starting and there ahve been no instances of hydraulic lock.
I'll keep reporting.
There is no longer and hesitance in starting and there ahve been no instances of hydraulic lock.
I'll keep reporting.
customknight
Active Member
Hey people, I'm posting from jail due to having had to ROB A BANK to run this beast on petrol!! :violent:
Anyway, I'm up to 230 miles and today I am going to drop and flush the coolant and reconnect my heater matrix and LPG components.
In this mileage I have encountered several different things about the engine.
• It is not using ANY coolant
• It is noticably smoother than it was.
• no longer producing any steam at any other time than morning start up which is fine.
• We no longer have a misfire
• We do now have a knackered o2 sensor on the right bank which needs replacing
• The cylinder is not collecting or seeing any traces of coolant.
The temperature has remained at the centre of the gauge throughout this operation so I'm hoping that's a good thing.
I am planning to buy a coolant temperature gauge that will let me know what the temperature of the water is more accurately but I need to know where to locate it. Any ideas?
I will report back once I have put the third stage (which is a weatherseal product used to coat the inner surfaces of the block similar to the process used in the factory) into the cooling system and refilled with the correct antifreeze mixture.
I'll keep you posted!
Anyway, I'm up to 230 miles and today I am going to drop and flush the coolant and reconnect my heater matrix and LPG components.
In this mileage I have encountered several different things about the engine.
• It is not using ANY coolant
• It is noticably smoother than it was.
• no longer producing any steam at any other time than morning start up which is fine.
• We no longer have a misfire
• We do now have a knackered o2 sensor on the right bank which needs replacing
• The cylinder is not collecting or seeing any traces of coolant.
The temperature has remained at the centre of the gauge throughout this operation so I'm hoping that's a good thing.
I am planning to buy a coolant temperature gauge that will let me know what the temperature of the water is more accurately but I need to know where to locate it. Any ideas?
I will report back once I have put the third stage (which is a weatherseal product used to coat the inner surfaces of the block similar to the process used in the factory) into the cooling system and refilled with the correct antifreeze mixture.
I'll keep you posted!
customknight
Active Member
Everything is crossed here mate!!! If this works I'l start saving for a new block and build an engine up on the bench and when the time comes I'll fit that.
I love the P38's, I just can't give up on it so easily.
I love the P38's, I just can't give up on it so easily.
Pete The Biker
Active Member
Good write-up!
Well done; I'll look forward to your future updates.
Pete
Well done; I'll look forward to your future updates.
Pete
customknight
Active Member
Thank you very much. Well I WOULD have finished the process today if the damn thing hadn't decided to purge every last dreg of its battery power overnight :violent:
Therefore I've been marooned at home until my friend rescued me with a nice Transit van to jump from....need one of those jump pack things...the amount of times it randomly just discharges its battery is scary!
I'll do the work tomorrow and keep you updated!
Check the RF reciever and ensure it is the latest model....Datatek recently posted photos of the different types...search for his posts!
customknight
Active Member
Thanks for the info, ill have a dig.
Back to my engine issues. Day before yesterday I dropped all the coolant and left it empty for 24 as instructed. This is to allow the ceramic sealer to harden.
If you're going to do this remember to disconnect the pipes from:
The inlet manifold (top radiator hose)
Bottom hose BEFORE the thermostat (block side)
Expansion tank
This way you will have the best possible chance of removing all the water from the block. Do not mess with the block drain valves, they'll simply shear off and then you're knackered!
I jacked the back of the RR up about three feet and let all the air out of the from bags to get the engine at as harsh an angle as possible then used my airline to literally blow the water through and out of the block. Worked well too!
After this, I reconnected the matrix and LPG pipes and double checked everything.
Final stage was mix the third stage of the irontite (weather seal) with 2 litres of water and add to the BLOCK through the top hose. Then it was a simple job of refilling the coolant system with the usual 50:50 mix of antifreeze.
Ran for twenty minutes with the cap off, heater on full to get rid of any air, squeezing every pipe available in the process. Cap on and ran it home.
All seems to be ok, gave it a test running on LPG too and all is good so far.
It is running SO much better than it did after the initial right bank rebuild.
I think this crack was there then
Anyway I will continue reporting progress as regularly as I remember to do it!
I hope this has helped some of you who may experience the same problem.
So when the next 'expert' tells you 'oh it's knackered that mate, nothing you can do. You need a new block', you can turn around and say 'actually pal.....'
In the USA they call this stuff 'the mechanics best kept secret'. Now I know why.
Back to my engine issues. Day before yesterday I dropped all the coolant and left it empty for 24 as instructed. This is to allow the ceramic sealer to harden.
If you're going to do this remember to disconnect the pipes from:
The inlet manifold (top radiator hose)
Bottom hose BEFORE the thermostat (block side)
Expansion tank
This way you will have the best possible chance of removing all the water from the block. Do not mess with the block drain valves, they'll simply shear off and then you're knackered!
I jacked the back of the RR up about three feet and let all the air out of the from bags to get the engine at as harsh an angle as possible then used my airline to literally blow the water through and out of the block. Worked well too!
After this, I reconnected the matrix and LPG pipes and double checked everything.
Final stage was mix the third stage of the irontite (weather seal) with 2 litres of water and add to the BLOCK through the top hose. Then it was a simple job of refilling the coolant system with the usual 50:50 mix of antifreeze.
Ran for twenty minutes with the cap off, heater on full to get rid of any air, squeezing every pipe available in the process. Cap on and ran it home.
All seems to be ok, gave it a test running on LPG too and all is good so far.
It is running SO much better than it did after the initial right bank rebuild.
I think this crack was there then
Anyway I will continue reporting progress as regularly as I remember to do it!
I hope this has helped some of you who may experience the same problem.
So when the next 'expert' tells you 'oh it's knackered that mate, nothing you can do. You need a new block', you can turn around and say 'actually pal.....'
In the USA they call this stuff 'the mechanics best kept secret'. Now I know why.
customknight
Active Member
As requested! Sorry, I've been a little busy.
Right well I've done over 400 miles now since the treatment and we're still running fine. No water loss, no overheating, no hydraulic lock, no steam. What you can't see is me vigorously touching a piece of wood next to me!! Haha!!
It did start to lose water on Monday but I discovered that the water pump was shot at, bearings were playing Beethoven's 5th!! Replaced that (eventually) and all is good once again. Well, with the exception of the alternator and battery having fit and requiring replacement on Tuesday. Oh and the EAS being on the blink again. Yeah, and the idle being at around 150rpm. And the rot in the front door.....etc etc
Any questions please ask
Right well I've done over 400 miles now since the treatment and we're still running fine. No water loss, no overheating, no hydraulic lock, no steam. What you can't see is me vigorously touching a piece of wood next to me!! Haha!!
It did start to lose water on Monday but I discovered that the water pump was shot at, bearings were playing Beethoven's 5th!! Replaced that (eventually) and all is good once again. Well, with the exception of the alternator and battery having fit and requiring replacement on Tuesday. Oh and the EAS being on the blink again. Yeah, and the idle being at around 150rpm. And the rot in the front door.....etc etc
Any questions please ask
StuckAgainSteve
Well-Known Member
Everyone I know who has used irontite has had to replace their water pump soon afterwards - I guess the pump should be replaced after using it. If the seals are weeping slightly any bits of irontite ceramic fining their way past the seal must finish 'em off.
customknight
Active Member
This pump was pretty bad anyway. The bearings were absolutely shot and the pulley had significant movement so it was due anyway!
