Si Click

Si Click

Well-Known Member
Apologies if this is well covered, but the search facility appears down.
Every once in a while, having used the central locking to get in, when I turn the key after glowplugs go out there is nothing.
It feels exactly like the engine immobilisation is active and in each case I have recovered control after locking the vehicle, waiting for the alarm led to stop flashing rapidly and then unlocking it again.
Though I have not yet been left stranded, I'm concerned that the writing is on the wall and it is just a matter of time.
Is this just a symptom of low power key batteries or is it an impending receiver unit? If the latter is it a straightforward physical plug and play replacement or is there a BCU programming requirement?
I understand that it is behind the headlining by the rear sunroof. Is there a way to replace it without taking out the headlining? I don't want to precipitate the dreaded saggy headlining.
 
I would say that having used the fob to open the central locking allowing you to get into the vehicle without the alarm going off there's little or nothing wrong with the RF receiver or the transmitter in the fob. This would then start pointing towards the starter relay, the solonoid sticking, the starter switch on the ignition lock barrel or the key fob and the proximity coil not talking to eachother.
 
brian47 said:
I would say that having used the fob to open the central locking allowing you to get into the vehicle without the alarm going off there's little or nothing wrong with the RF receiver or the transmitter in the fob. This would then start pointing towards the starter relay, the solonoid sticking, the starter switch on the ignition lock barrel or the key fob and the proximity coil not talking to each other.
Click to expand...

It happened again this morning and the symptoms are indeed akin to a sticking solenoid. The key turns, everything goes dim as power goes to the starter...but nothing happens. However, moving the gear selector from Park to Drive and back again solved the problem and it will start quite happily thereafter.
Sticky solenoid or auto interlink issue? Please don't tell me these are symptoms of an xyz switch issue. I wish the search facility were back up so I could do some research.
 
Si Click said:
It happened again this morning and the symptoms are indeed akin to a sticking solenoid. The key turns, everything goes dim as power goes to the starter...but nothing happens. However, moving the gear selector from Park to Drive and back again solved the problem and it will start quite happily thereafter.
Sticky solenoid or auto interlink issue? Please don't tell me these are symptoms of an xyz switch issue. I wish the search facility were back up so I could do some research.
Click to expand...

I'm now outside my comfort zone, I don't do automaticals.
From what I've heard, whatever has gone wrong, it's always the XYZ switch, even if the wheels fall off, it's the XYZ switch!
 
Sounds like a strange 1.
Lights going dim, but no start.
I would not expect power to even go to the starter if it was an interlock issue.
Was it just coincidence moving from park to drive and back.
Did you hear the solenoid click?
I would think the starter and solenoid may need looking at.
Is your battery in good shape and fully charged.

J
 
New(ish) < 1 yr old battery and yes it has a decent charge showing 12.5v before start.
I have just been through the Security menu on the Hawkeye and turned off Passive Immobilisation, so if it happens again I can rule that out.
Was it coincidence going from P to D and back? Dunno, if/when it happens again I will try a few times and then if no joy move the lever - it it cures it then there is probably a link.
In the meantime I'm going to read what RAVE has to say about auto interlocks. As an experiment I tried to start in Drive and the interlock gave exactly the same symptoms - lights dim but no turning over, or solenoid click.
 
Just tried the 2001 RR. Would think they would use the same logic for starting.
In D I hear a faint click, but no dimming of lights. Except the normal bits that turn off on the starter position sat Nav and havc screen, which do the same when in park and start.

So maybe you are on to your thought of the interlock system somewhere, or as Brian suggests everything is the xyz’s fault.:)

J
 
Sorry, by dimming of lights I mean that the radio, clock, climate control lights go out, not that the headlights dim or anything. This is consistent with what happens when you try to start in Drive.

BTW I have checked for Transmission DTCs and there is nothing logged and the Hawkeye shows that the EAT ECU is showing the correct selector position and movement. Next time is happens I will connect the Hawkeye and check that it knows it's in P/N.
Incidentally, having turned off passive immobilisation can I assume that I have no further need to track down the EKA?
Thanks for he help.
 
Ok yes see it now about the lights basically what I get.

As for the alarm I have no idea you will need help from 1 of the trickery wizards on here. Or wait till search comes back there is loads about BECM settings/workings available.
I would always say it’s worth having EKA (before you need it).
Have EKA for both our P38s just Incase.:)

J.
 
Have you tried pushing the gearlever hard forward (ie making sure it's fully in "P")? Mine frequently does what you describe - the XYZ switch is very slightly out of adjustment. It doesn't bother me but it's caught one or two people out when I've let them drive my car. I see it as a minor anti-theft device!
 
Have you tried starting it in N as the xyz switch will be in a different position? I doubt it will make a difference but worth a try.
I would still check your battery, I have had a few strange things happen and everyone says it's the xyz switch but after a good battery charge they all go away. My car can sit on the drive for a week without moving.
 
iansoady said:
Have you tried pushing the gearlever hard forward (ie making sure it's fully in "P")? Mine frequently does what you describe - the XYZ switch is very slightly out of adjustment. It doesn't bother me but it's caught one or two people out when I've let them drive my car. I see it as a minor anti-theft device!
Click to expand...

I'll give that a go thanks. That does sound exactly like the same issue.
 
Simple check, does the red light by gear selector illuminate and P show in instrument display when park selected when the fault occurs.
If they do, it is not the xyz switch.
If they don't, the xyz switch probably needs realigning
 
Thanks all. So far it has not happened again since I turned off the passive immobilisation, but if it does I will do some analysis as suggested.
 
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