Done a search, various suggestions tried. Can't put a 1/2 inch extension as it fouls, can't pull it with my ratchet, can't get a breaker bar in, can't get extension on ratchet. Thinking I'm gonna have to drop it all (engine and box and IRD) to get at it properly. The other 3 are loosened, extremely tight....Any tips please for the front top one???

I've been able to do all 4 with plenty of extension bars to the socket and a pipe over the ratchet handle for leverage. Might end up with the ratchet nearer the drivers side wheel than the gearbox and with the pipe over the ratchet handle movement is restricted, to possibly 1 click per pull, but it did crack it. That's for L and K Series - dunno what else is around to foul on a TD4.

As above. Lots of extensions and do it from the off side arch. You'll probably need a wobble drive too, if you don't have wobble extensions.

Thanks for prompt responses. I can't get an extension on my 6 point impact socket due to the casting web. I have a UJ but this is a bit bulky - will give it a go. Why they are so tight is a mystery! Should they have loctite applied as I'll be doing them up by hand rather than with a steam hammer !?

I use my 3/8" air ratchet, which gets the job done quickly without effort. However it is possible with normal hand sockets, 3/8" help if you have them. They're nipped up pretty tight, but not burstingly so.

From memory they're not patch bolts, and I've never put Locktite on them. Like I said, just nip them up tight with a normal length ratchet.

You can't get a straight extension on to this bolt because of various obstructions and there is not room to swing any kind of ratchet so a snake of extensions heading out of the right wheel arch is the only way that I could find of getting any serious torque on to the bolt. From memory, the turbo plumbing and the IRD coolant plumbing both get in the way. I found that a shallow socket with a short wobble-end extension on it then another wobbling joint to the extension driving that got me around the major obstacles. I only had one wobble-ended extension so the second joint was improvised using a loosely fitted pair of extensions bound together with duct tape! I found that I couldn't keep a UJ lined up well enough to transmit the force needed to shift the bolt.but I was also considering binding a UJ in tape to try to keep it roughly in line. Once it was all lined up, a breaker bar provided enough leverage which was a relief because I don't think my taped joint would have survived the hammering from an impact driver.

Since I did the job I have seen these - https://www.geniustoolsusa.com/genius-tools-11pc-1-2-dr-metric-swivel-impact-socket-set-tg-411m.html and added them to my wish list with this job in mind. Has anyone tried these or similar and do they work?

I know you are not this far in yet but connect the ird breather pipe before you reattach the water pipes to the cooler plate it will make your life that bit sweeter

Thanks, have ordered some wobble drives and some hex 3/8 inch. Having learned the hard way years ago - I NEVER risk rounding a bolt head or nut - it is not worth it. I mocked up the scenario above with my straight extensions and can see that with a couple of 'wobbles' I can feed the socket extensions out of the RH wheel arch. Turbo servo vacuum thing is a bit in the way but should make it I hope - thanks for all the tips above - does the breather just pull off or is it like the rear axle with a push sleeve in then pull fitting?

andyfreelandy said:

Thanks, have ordered some wobble drives and some hex 3/8 inch. Having learned the hard way years ago - I NEVER risk rounding a bolt head or nut - it is not worth it. I mocked up the scenario above with my straight extensions and can see that with a couple of 'wobbles' I can feed the socket extensions out of the RH wheel arch. Turbo servo vacuum thing is a bit in the way but should make it I hope - thanks for all the tips above - does the breather just pull off or is it like the rear axle with a push sleeve in then pull fitting?

Click to expand...

It just pulls off it could go easy or it could be hard. The plastic pipe fits into a rubber sleeve so you should be able to twist or lever the sleeve off if the pipe won't come out of it or you can cut it at the sleeve if you really need to