Leomas

Well-Known Member

• Sep 4, 2016

• #1

This may seem an odd thing to ask but I have been getting regular visits from the 3 Amigos for about a year now and the complete inconsistency of when they kick off led me to just ignore them, but...

This may be co-incidence or paranoia but I think I am noticing a difference is how the brakes work when the boys are here compared to when they are not. Mostly it is as though I can feel the ABS fluttering on hard braking when they are on while with the lights off I don't.

If the lights are on (regardless of whether this is for real or for the hell of it) is there actually a difference in how things like ABS are managed by the ECUs?

 

sierrafery

Well-Known Member

• Sep 5, 2016

• #2

Leomas said:

If the lights are on (regardless of whether this is for real or for the hell of it) is there actually a difference in how things like ABS are managed by the ECUs?

Click to expand...

Off course. there are all kind of default modes according to the fault which triggers the amigos and as long as they are there the behaviour can be erratic... read the codes, fix it and the dillema will be solved

 

brian47

Well-Known Member

• Sep 5, 2016

• #3

+1

The "3 Amogos" are warning lights .... warning you that something is not right. Get it fixed and all will be right again.

 

markomate2

Well-Known Member

• Sep 5, 2016

• #4

+1 They are on for a reason!

 

martys0uth

Active Member

• Sep 6, 2016

• #5

Leomas said:

This may seem an odd thing to ask but I have been getting regular visits from the 3 Amigos for about a year now and the complete inconsistency of when they kick off led me to just ignore them, but...

This may be co-incidence or paranoia but I think I am noticing a difference is how the brakes work when the boys are here compared to when they are not. Mostly it is as though I can feel the ABS fluttering on hard braking when they are on while with the lights off I don't.

If the lights are on (regardless of whether this is for real or for the hell of it) is there actually a difference in how things like ABS are managed by the ECUs?

Click to expand...

Mine are on at the moment, Turns out the driver inner wheel bearing was DEAD (like seriously dead) and the ABS sensor literally exploded out the pocket hence flagging the 3 lights. turns out it caused the axle oil seal to leak as well and goodbye all my axle oil!!

fixed the issue now, and I know exactly what you're saying about hard braking with the brake pedal trying to push you off it, but I used to get that when the lights were not on anyway. I think it may be paranoia, or it may be a co-incidence to me too!

but yes, I do agree, there's multiple reasons, could be the traction control causing an issue hence the ABS may be in complete working order, best thing is get a code read from somewhere

 

sierrafery

Well-Known Member

• Sep 6, 2016

• #6

when the pedal goes hard while braking can be the EBD too caused by uneven tyre pressures or wear or road conditions:
EBD
The EBD function optimises the distribution of hydraulic pressure between the front and rear axles, under all vehicle
load configurations and road conditions, to maintain vehicle stability during braking. EBD operates in forward and
reverse and is automatically enabled whenever the ABS modulator is in the normal braking mode at vehicle
deceleration rates of 0.3 g and above (i.e. medium to high brake pedal loads). EBD operation is similar to that of ABS,
but is calibrated to intervene at lower wheel slip limits and operates the brakes in axle pairs instead of individually.
During braking, if the SLABS ECU detects the wheels of one axle going slower than those of the other axle, i.e. a
potential wheel slip situation, it signals the ABS modulator to close the inlet solenoid valve for the brakes of the slower
wheels. This prevents any further increase in hydraulic pressure to those brakes, while allowing the hydraulic pressure
to the brakes on the other axle to increase and so maximise the overall braking effort. If the wheel speeds of the axle
being subjected to EBD control return within the calibrated wheel slip limits, the SLABS ECU signals a stepped
opening of the inlet solenoid valves, which allows a progressive increase of hydraulic pressure to the related brakes.
Operation of EBD is detectable from a stiffening of brake pedal movement as the inlet solenoid valves close and a
slight pulsing of the brake pedal as the inlet solenoid valves open. EBD operation ceases immediately the brake pedal
is released.
The wheel slip limit for EBD operation varies with vehicle speed. During normal operation, the inlet solenoid valves
always operate in axle pairs, with only one axle pair closed at any one time. Since the most lightly loaded wheel during
a braking manoeuvre will usually be the first to reach the slip limit, under most vehicle load configurations and road
conditions EBD control occurs on the trailing axle. However, EBD control can occur on the leading axle or switch
between axles during the braking manoeuvre.

 

Leomas

Well-Known Member

• Sep 7, 2016

• #7

Ah-ha....Thanks for that @sierrafery, that is a very good match for what I have been feeling from the pedal. With regards to fixing the Amigos, I did start tracking what caused them to come on but it was just so damn inconsistent I gave up. It can be weeks between visits and then they pop-up several days in a row and then just go away again. I have had everything from harsh braking on a bumpy downhill bend to after 20 miles of smooth Motorway cruising and everything in between. I have even had them 'not go out' when restarting after stopping at the shop to grab some bits on my way home.
I had considered getting the codes read but with all the stories on here about shuttle valve codes which were not fixed with expensive replacement parts I am kind of leaving things as stock as possible while I wait for the piggybank to fill up. Once it jingles enough I will decide whether to buff it up or trade it up.

 

Disco DJ

Active Member

• Sep 7, 2016

• #8

Could be just a hub. Get the codes read.

 

Tillytomp

Active Member

• Sep 18, 2016

• #9

I might be worth saying your location,(unless I missed it) as I found a guy in the same town as me, willing to give up his time to help me.
I bit the bullet and got a nanocom and read my own codes, as my mates code reader(generic) said my MAF was bad so I got a new one, and the lights remained, honestly if it is the shuttle valves, it's really easy to swap out, even I did it, and I'm completely useless