'Kin'ell! you're not kidding mate. I'm with @discomania & likes to keep her as original as possible (300tdi 90 CSW).
I keep fuses in the ashtray too, though I keep my work gloves on the dash so can't see it anyway
I've been to model railway shop. I'm gonna put some oo guage box hedging in it, either side of a leylandi for now.
 
They got that Defender Defender doodad in one of the Landy Mags with a discount..
Anybody got any reports on 'em?
 
Have you put decent security on it yet?

Cheers
Oh yeah. I've bought something called a stop lock pro, as the cops found it to be the best in tests, taking over 10 minutes to break. The alarm fitters my neck of the woods keep telling me alarms are a waste of time cos of criminal laptops and key codes, but I'm having a bog standard one fitted anyway, and a cut off switch near my battery next week. I noticed a tracker in halfords for 44 quid earlier. I'll have the pedal lock next week but undecided about which one. I quite like this one as it doesn't have a gap at the end? https://www.landroverspares.co.uk/i...efender-up-to-td5-without-air-con-da6601.html
 
So, fastest speed fan level doesn't always keep clicked in/lock down. Indicator doesn't click off again when I straighten up from a corner, there's a couple of green bulbs out behind my speedo and temp gauge. Tank is full up but fuel gauge says 3/4 full. I just thought it'd be easier getting it all changed. However, I'm back at default which is keeping it all original, but will probs keep modern wheels on now rather than going back to old coloured white rims.

Fan might just be the Bowden cable is tight and is pulling the switch back - unscrew the little panel and see that the switch has nothing stopping it from going into max setting, if not then I guess the cable is tight - it doesn't really do anything, only opens a flap from 0 to 1st stage which is vent open then after that 2 stages of fan speed, if that cable is tight it can restrict movement of the switch.

The little bulbs are just little 12V 2W wedge (capless) clear lamps - there are two on the speedo and 1 for each gauge.

Tank - hmm - what was the excuse given that it didn't work? Did you say someone had fitted a different tank in a previous post? If so could be a mismatch of bits. It could also be as simple as needing the float arm bent down a little so that there is more travel on it into the "full zone" if it has been bent up too steep or is catching on the tank somewhere it won't let the arm swing fully past the 3/4 mark on the rheostat thus giving a false reading - dead easy to tweak if it is this, but let us know what you have first before I or someone else goes off on a tangent that doesn't even apply to you. You could also test the gauge to see if it will go to full - you can do that by bypassing the sender and connecting the wires together or decking the wire that goes to the gauge, that will in effect give full current to the gauge and it should read full - seek advise here if your not electrically minded, you are unlikely to cause any damage but lets not start causing issues!
 
I have read that beofre, what I read was that the disklok gave the best security, but it was a PITA to use/ store on a daily basis.

Cheers
In the end they put it first and I just thought I'd better quickly take heed of what the chap at my local garage said. Not so much for the professional gangs (they won't bother about anything really), but to deter the average Prestonian scroat in the meantime, I needed a quick, visual deterrent.
 
In the end they put it first and I just thought I'd better quickly take heed of what the chap at my local garage said. Not so much for the professional gangs (they won't bother about anything really), but to deter the average Prestonian scroat in the meantime, I needed a quick, visual deterrent.
Yep, it is all layers, and a device you will use is better than a better device you will not use....

I am lazy and have been known to leave the 90 in Tescos without any doors locked or fitting a security device...I like to live dangerously...:p

Cheers
 
Fan might just be the Bowden cable is tight and is pulling the switch back - unscrew the little panel and see that the switch has nothing stopping it from going into max setting, if not then I guess the cable is tight - it doesn't really do anything, only opens a flap from 0 to 1st stage which is vent open then after that 2 stages of fan speed, if that cable is tight it can restrict movement of the switch.

The little bulbs are just little 12V 2W wedge (capless) clear lamps - there are two on the speedo and 1 for each gauge.

Tank - hmm - what was the excuse given that it didn't work? Did you say someone had fitted a different tank in a previous post? If so could be a mismatch of bits. It could also be as simple as needing the float arm bent down a little so that there is more travel on it into the "full zone" if it has been bent up too steep or is catching on the tank somewhere it won't let the arm swing fully past the 3/4 mark on the rheostat thus giving a false reading - dead easy to tweak if it is this, but let us know what you have first before I or someone else goes off on a tangent that doesn't even apply to you. You could also test the gauge to see if it will go to full - you can do that by bypassing the sender and connecting the wires together or decking the wire that goes to the gauge, that will in effect give full current to the gauge and it should read full - seek advise here if your not electrically minded, you are unlikely to cause any damage but lets not start causing issues!
Owner said "the sender unit was probably knocked and needed lifting up a bit to register a full tank when it was full". Someone else said it could be the float arm. The different position/type of tank thing came from me listening to the chap saying he couldn't have steps fitted because of the fuel tank being where it is. It turns out it was a particular ice step that he bought that doesn't suit any defender without adaptation. Cheers for the things to try. I'll give em a bash tomorrow. It's a bad habit of mine to cognitively distort (black and white). It's not going to do as a Landy owner. I can see that my dashboard changing notion yesterday was this habit in motion. If the dentist told me I needed four fillings, I'd probably tell him to take all my teeth out! Patience and 'process of elimination' is gonna be a tough nut for me to crack. I've always been an 'act in haste, repent at leisure' buffoon!
 
So this weekend I'll try and change the dash bulbs, and the chinese board? Well I dunno why it's wet. Just put some rubber grommets in the back seat holes and will wire brush cargo internal corners and silicone seal tomorrow. I dunno if it's psychological, but I'm sure that dehumidifier tub is doing the trick. Not caught in pictures is a little amber christmas tree nipple bulb on the top of the dash to the right of the steering wheel. Does anyone know what it might be?
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Don’t use bathroom sealant or any other kind of silicon sealant. Better option is sikaflex or tiger seal that can be painted if needed and is just more appropriate in a vehicle. Dunno about the dinitrol stuff as I’ve never used it or even come across it.
Don’t worry about the daylight between the panels....it’ll soon moss up,,,:D
 
Don’t use bathroom sealant or any other kind of silicon sealant. Better option is sikaflex or tiger seal that can be painted if needed and is just more appropriate in a vehicle. Dunno about the dinitrol stuff as I’ve never used it or even come across it.
Don’t worry about the daylight between the panels....it’ll soon moss up,,,:D
Nice one. Just read at the right time. Was just gonna buy bathroom stuff this morning at the stores. Cheers.
 
They got that Defender Defender doodad in one of the Landy Mags with a discount..
Anybody got any reports on 'em?
Fitted a defender defender for someone. Works ok. Shake it and the alert comes through int seconds. Web access is easy to use. I think the base model doesn't have a backup battery. We fitted the top spec one.
 

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