2.0_hippo

2.0_hippo

Well-Known Member
Well, Not been my luck this weekend !

iv had a very slow leak in the cooling system, ie needs the expansion tank topping up every month or so. could this slow of a leak just be a simple thing like the expansion tank cap ? as i cant see any drips or wet patches and its a very slow leak ! ??

eitherway got "check coolant level" error pop up yesterday as the level had got low since i topped it up last month. so filled it back up but the error hasnt cleared on the dash ?

any idea why ? or has it "hard" stored the fault in the ECU ? or a sticky low level sensor ???



oh, and today, car working fine, then start it to come home from work and after its started i then got "air suspension inactive" message which wont clear when i re-start the car !!!

the height adjustment switch was locked off so i couldnt change the height !

So i disconnected the compressor and then re-connected it to see if it could reset itself, the faults still there and this time the whole suspension control panel is off, ie no lights etc..

although i could here the compressor running for a couple of seconds so a fuse couldnt have blown :confused:


i think it could be my compressor as its been slow changing heights lately ?

can anyone confirm this before i go and buy another ?


and to add onto my list of problems it then decides that it doesnt want to start !!!! :mad:

ie it doesnt turn over, i had the same problem last month and i was told it might be a faulty inhibitor switch in the gearbox as it sometimes starts when you move it in and out of Park and neutral a few times ?

so can anyone also confirm that the inhibitor switch is at fault too before i go get it repaired ?



Oh well, iv had a good 6 months of trouble free ownership, i suppose it had to happen (ALL AT ONCE) ! :mad:


would appreciate any replys ASAP as need to get it booked into specialist this week.

Many thanks guys :(

FML :confused2:
 
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Not being funny fella but how can we tell you what has gone wrong without you doin some checks have you got rave have a look and do a bit of fault finding

I know that you are asking for help if there something common but more info is needed

Have you checked the earths and feeds connections of units, water ingress will it now start if u play with the park and neutral
 
im simply asking if these are common problems !

and yes i have rave.

i have done the simple checks and was simply asking to see if anyone could shed anymore light on my situation.

i will give the earth connections a good looking over and i would like to disconnect battery to see if it resets anything but im worried it might make things worse :(

i'll end up taking into my local specialist this week as i need it done asap so i can get it plugged into diognostics to at least start to find out what my problem is.

it could be something as simple as a low battery ? or bad earth ?? thanks
 
I wasn't having a go hippo I wuld ask the same common problems but alas we all know these rangies like a good battery
 
2.0_hippo said:
Well, Not been my luck this weekend !

iv had a very slow leak in the cooling system, ie needs the expansion tank topping up every month or so. could this slow of a leak just be a simple thing like the expansion tank cap ? as i cant see any drips or wet patches and its a very slow leak ! ??

eitherway got "check coolant level" error pop up yesterday as the level had got low since i topped it up last month. so filled it back up but the error hasnt cleared on the dash ?

any idea why ? or has it "hard" stored the fault in the ECU ? or a sticky low level sensor ???


oh, and today, car working fine, then start it to come home from work and after its started i then got "air suspension inactive" message which wont clear when i re-start the car !!!

the height adjustment switch was locked off so i couldnt change the height !

So i disconnected the compressor and then re-connected it to see if it could reset itself, the faults still there and this time the whole suspension control panel is off, ie no lights etc..

although i could here the compressor running for a couple of seconds so a fuse couldnt have blown :confused:


i think it could be my compressor as its been slow changing heights lately ?

can anyone confirm this before i go and buy another ?


and to add onto my list of problems it then decides that it doesnt want to start !!!! :mad:

ie it doesnt turn over, i had the same problem last month and i was told it might be a faulty inhibitor switch in the gearbox as it sometimes starts when you move it in and out of Park and neutral a few times ?

so can anyone also confirm that the inhibitor switch is at fault too before i go get it repaired ?



Oh well, iv had a good 6 months of trouble free ownership, i suppose it had to happen (ALL AT ONCE) ! :mad:


would appreciate any replys ASAP as need to get it booked into specialist this week.

Many thanks guys :(

FML :confused2:
Click to expand...
i had a similar prob on a 330d i used to have(same engine) it used a bit of water say a pint every month,it turned out to be a rubber seal on what seemed to be a pre heater sort of thing directly at the front of the engine above the waterpump when the top engine cover is removed it is visible and easy to remove and repair,

as for eas not sure its a shame your not near cause ive got a rsw solutions eas mk111 you could have plugged in, read & reset,

finally it does sound like your inhibitor is playing up or failed:(
 
wil2813 said:
i had a similar prob on a 330d i used to have(same engine) it used a bit of water say a pint every month,it turned out to be a rubber seal on what seemed to be a pre heater sort of thing directly at the front of the engine above the waterpump when the top engine cover is removed it is visible and easy to remove and repair,

as for eas not sure its a shame your not near cause ive got a rsw solutions eas mk111 you could have plugged in, read & reset,

finally it does sound like your inhibitor is playing up or failed:(
Click to expand...


Thanks for your reply :)

i shall have a look at what you described.

iv just been out in the dark to have another look over the car.

checked most of the accessable earthing points including the battery terminals and they are all tight and clean.

managed to sort out one error, the "check coolent level" by looseing the switch in the expansion tank by giving it a good old knock ! lol

Oh ! and low and behold the cars starting fine now ! lol

Its definitely an intermittent problem, hopefully just something simple like the inhibitor switch ;) are these common to go tits up ? or is it expected of a 9 year old motor ?


thanks for the kind offer regarding your EAS reader, yes a real shame your not closer !

infact after this EAS gets sorted im thinking of getting a proper fault reader so i can deal with more of these faults at home :cool:

any recommendations on which make is best ?

cheers
:eek:
 
i had a td6 in the other day with random faults like yours including the starting issue, the power in the battery is monitored by the ecu and if not up to a pre programmed power level it will not engage the starter. anyway long story short is a new bosch battery sorted all the problems. batterys can suffer floating cells where as one minute they will be low but left to stand can move and start your car fine.
eBay - The UK's Online Marketplace

im not saying it will be with yours but like others state range rovers like power and its probably your cheapest option to start with unless you have diagnostic equipment to hand.

a link to the diagnostics i use, free software undates for life when bought too, look over on fullfat range rovers for loads of info on this equipment.
http://www.rswsolutions.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=415&Itemid=81
 
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arron beast unleashed said:
i had a td6 in the other day with random faults like yours including the starting issue, the power in the battery is monitored by the ecu and if not up to a pre programmed power level it will not engage the starter. anyway long story short is a new bosch battery sorted all the problems. batterys can suffer floating cells where as one minute they will be low but left to stand can move and start your car fine.
eBay - The UK's Online Marketplace

im not saying it will be with yours but like others state range rovers like power and its probably your cheapest option to start with unless you have diagnostic equipment to hand.

a link to the diagnostics i use, free software undates for life when bought too, look over on fullfat range rovers for loads of info on this equipment.
http://www.rswsolutions.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=415&Itemid=81
Click to expand...


thanks for your reply.


regarding that battery, is that the biggest one available ? as i thought they did a bosch 120ah ? or am i wrong ? i am thinking of getting a new battery anyway as iv occasionally been getting HDC inactive quickly flash up and disappear wihtin a second when starting from cold, would this suggest a bad battery then ?

i currently have a varta 110ah fitted with 850 CCA (not sure on its age tho)

might give it a go and buy a new battery then, cant do any harm. will it cause any more problems by disconnecting the battery ? or possibly reset something ? ETC... as i havent got any EKA code for my immobiliser :eek:

Thanks
 
as far as i know thats the biggest one available at the mo, you dont need a eka on the 322s so no need to worry about that. the hdc message is a classic sympton of a week battery on the l322, i would replace the battery and go from there. dont forget to reset the steering angle when you fitted your battery. the only bit of advise when replacing the battery is to open the boot and remove the panel so you can see the nav system. wait for the red light to go out before disconnecting the battery, failure to wait can result in damaging the nav unit. oh make sure you dont leave the key in it either, they sometimes lock themselfs on refitting of the battery.:doh:
 
Check coolant level is a typical sign of a leaking radiator. As the car goes past 100000 kms a radiator swap is often needed.

Else it can be you originally had a 200 marked expansion tank cap and replaced it with a 140 cap (which has become prescribed as standard although some cars do not run well with it). With a 140 a BMW petrol V8 car may begin wetting fluid out at least mine did.
 
arron beast unleashed said:
i had a td6 in the other day with random faults like yours including the starting issue, the power in the battery is monitored by the ecu and if not up to a pre programmed power level it will not engage the starter. anyway long story short is a new bosch battery sorted all the problems. batterys can suffer floating cells where as one minute they will be low but left to stand can move and start your car fine.
eBay - The UK's Online Marketplace

im not saying it will be with yours but like others state range rovers like power and its probably your cheapest option to start with unless you have diagnostic equipment to hand.

a link to the diagnostics i use, free software undates for life when bought too, look over on fullfat range rovers for loads of info on this equipment.
http://www.rswsolutions.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=415&Itemid=81
Click to expand...

Yes if the battery is low the air suspension can also throw wobblers because it doesn't get 12 volts on start up, and gets very confused! With itself?

New battery first port of call
Good luck
 
arron beast unleashed said:
as far as i know thats the biggest one available at the mo, you dont need a eka on the 322s so no need to worry about that. the hdc message is a classic sympton of a week battery on the l322, i would replace the battery and go from there. dont forget to reset the steering angle when you fitted your battery. the only bit of advise when replacing the battery is to open the boot and remove the panel so you can see the nav system. wait for the red light to go out before disconnecting the battery, failure to wait can result in damaging the nav unit. oh make sure you dont leave the key in it either, they sometimes lock themselfs on refitting of the battery.:doh:
Click to expand...

The new 2010/2012 ranges had a recall and all battery's changed for a new larger gell filled one?
Don't know much about the battery but guy salmon at Wakefield stuck one on my 2006 one in january whilst hunting down a faulty ignition sitch( which was only alowing 9 volts into air suspension ecu) causing suspension faults to apear.
 
Holey thread resurrection Bat man .... Hippo asked for help in January. I think its fixed now.
 
lowfat said:
Holey thread resurrection Bat man .... Hippo asked for help in January. I think its fixed now.
Click to expand...


tell me about it ! :rolleyes:

still not fixed it though ! lol

level drops to one point in header tank, not any lower after that.

i believe these tanks can get some hairline cracks and that its a common problem ?
 
2.0_hippo said:
tell me about it ! :rolleyes:

still not fixed it though ! lol

level drops to one point in header tank, not any lower after that.

i believe these tanks can get some hairline cracks and that its a common problem ?
Click to expand...

Merde alors, not another problem on your ultra reliable L322?:fencing:
 
Ok let's start with the easy one. The coolant tank works on a density. As you have topped up over time slowly you have changed the ideal 50/50 mix of coolant towards 100% water. When you get the check coolant it's probably because you have the wrong mix now.
The air suspension has gone into hard error. You will need to get the codes read and reset to get it back to life. You can go to Landrover or Indy round you or buy a diagnostic tool. When you has air suspension error and lights on the height display you had a soft error. These sometimes clear the selfs and sometimes a battery disconnect will sort it.
The not starting issue can be a number of things, but the L322 needs a good battery. If your battery isn't up to it, the ECU will start shutting down systems to keep it running. You will loose HDC, air suspension, first as they are the most indispensable. After that will come transmission and ABS.
The loss of coolant could be something minor, but could be a HGF. Now I would start looking at the rad, expansion tank, hoses, water pump. The rads are prone to going at the bottom left if your looking at the front of the car from outside. You won't get a puddle at first as the fan draws the coolant towards the engine where it evaporates. The next is the expansion tank. Being a V8 you should have a 200 cap, not a 140, after then look over the tank for a hairline crack. You would normally get a white tell tail,but if you don't have much antifreeze in there you won't get that help. Check the hoses for small leaks, there are several at the back of the engine which are prone but would guess if they had gone you would have a puddle under the car. The water pump is also a weak point and sometimes leak through the seals when they get old. Again the fan can hide this as its directly in front of the fan.
Think that should keep you going for a while. Lol
 
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