Everyone has their own views on what represents value for money.

I've had my RRC professionally treated 3 times over the past 14 years using Dinatrol (2 different grades according to the application .. chassis exterior or interior/cavities) at £500-600 a throw. Consequently the car has remained corrosion free, apart from the common rear lower seat belt mounts (repaired) with the the total cost for the treatment over those years equating to barely 10 percent of the car's current market value.

I can cope with that ;)
 
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We'll give it a proper clean up over the weekend and then seal things up next week during the supposed good weather on its way. Like you say it is not what it looks like, it is how it works and survives. Don't want to be spending too much more time underneath, would rather enjoy on the road. Funnily enough it does seem firmer, but that might just be in the mind!
 
Datatek said:
You are entitled to you opinion but I have used Waxoil for decades and found that it works very well with very little prepping needed.
Dintrol is, or was probably better but very expensive by comparison. Ziebart was another anti rust treatment but not available to the public, had to be done by an approved place.
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That is what I like about the UK I can have an opinion as can anyone else.

My fil applied waxoyl to his new Nissan Sunny in 1989, it rusted away despite rewaxing every year.
I used to use it but found in wheel arches it was gone very quickly, the cheap as chips chassis waxes are much the same, much more expensive is better but ultimately ends up the same.
 
rich28uk said:
Again some people don’t like it but I find it works fine if applied / topped up each year and applied warm and thin. Most seem to slap it on an inch thick, that’s when water seems to get behind and eat the steel away, or apply cold and it doesn’t creep so again steel rots away, think that’s where people go off it, if applied thin and hot seems fine, personally I prefer to apply and performance of Bilt hamber UB, but at £14-16 a can it’s costly to treat what’s nearly a 20 year old car all over, where treat the more exposed areas with BH UB and less exposed with Waxoyl for what’s in my view a decent and cost effective treatment, and as a regular suspension and quick spray, chain lube as it sticks and is anti corrosive.
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Chain lube is great and I have been using it for my sills for a few years now, which reminds me they need doing again.
 
Chain Lube reminds me of my old dad's technique. Couple of pics from this AM PXL_20230401_084831159.jpg PXL_20230401_084826256.jpg PXL_20230401_084836559.jpg PXL_20230401_084718867.jpg PXL_20230401_084527461.jpg PXL_20230401_084745484.jpg
 

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The steel on the l322 is boron steel and is hard and thin which makes welding harder as it cracks if to much heat is used, it was a way of making the cars lighter but means very thin panels which rust out quicker:(
 
lynall said:
Size of them (very neat) weld beads, what did he use for the new metalwork rsj?
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I am not sure, what I do know is it can actually be jacked up using the points without anything going wrong....probably the first time in 15years! Metal he used he desrcibed as 'substantial'.
 
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