mudinuri

Active Member
Hi again to all Freelander owners. I have a puzzle for you.
2003 FREELANDER TD4 Automatic. My Wife and I had booked a TESCO Click and Collect for 0800/0900 this morning so at 0740 I started the car with no evident problems then drove to Tesco and loaded the back with the groceries and after 10 to 15 minutes went to start the car to drive back home a round trip of no more than 10 miles. But nothing, the ignition came on, the warning lights came on but nothing more than usual and the engine turned over but would not start. Tried for 5 minutes then phoned Green Flag who came out to me within 1 hour(Brilliant) .The man plugged his computer in but no faults showed up he then admitted to not knowing what to do next so we loaded the car on his transporter and he took us home, And that was it so now I need your Help and Advice. PLEASE. Someone out there must have experienced the same problem so what the hell was/is it?????
cheers all
 
Sorry to hear of your problem.
Most roadside assist companies cannot read fault codes for the Freelander as they are unique to Land Rover. A special reader is required and it would be well worth getting them read. Thus will give a clue.
When car has completely cooled down try it again.
If it starts when cold my guess is the camshaft sensor. I had the same fault. Failed to restart when warm, fine from cold.
Hope that helps.
 
Hi try And's idea, now here is a question for you when you tried to start the was it in park or natural, or was it left in D, usually though when it is you do not get any any turning over.
If after it will not start now the cam sensor is cold, then your next step, if you do not have a diagnostic T4/ or Hawkeye then you could do a leak back test, with one of thesde below.
DIESEL INJECTOR FLOW METER 6 CYLINDER ADAPTOR SET COMMON RAIL LEAK OFF TEST KIT | eBay
if that turns out ok then i would be looking at the HPFP regulator O-rings they can fail and stop the car from starting, easy to repair cost for parts £5.22p and about an hours work.
BMW 525d 2.5 Common Rail Pump Pressure Regulator seal kit Bosch x 1 | eBay
When was your fuel filter last changed?

Diagnostics is the way forward though if you can.
 
Hi Andy and Artic2, thanks for the replies I"ve got the old girl back home, and I mean the car but where the heck can I get it dignosed???? Can I buy one of those Hawkeye things and would I know how to use it and more importantly how much are they?????
Thanks lads
 
Can I buy one of those Hawkeye things and would I know how to use it and more importantly how much are they?????

Bearmach has ceased trading.
the Hawkeye looks to be a 'used' purchase only .. at way-upped prices compared to when new.
'new' ads on various sites be out-of-stock.
 
Thanks for that hd3. So what the hell do I do? I went out late afternoon to try to see if it would start and it started first time. But dare I drive it anywhere because Green Flag tell me that if I do not get it diagnosed and repaired if I breakdown again with the same problem within 28 days I will have to pay for it.
 
This is not an uncommon fault. The sharp money would be in Andy's camshaft sensor.

I'm not sure - but that might not even throw up an error code in the ECU.

If its not the camshaft sensor - then "diagnostics" may not be just getting the codes - if the codes show something, then fine - but its likely to be the pressures etc that you'd be interested in - eg high and low fuel pressures - plus you'd want to read them when the car is experiencing the fault, not when its running OK - although that would give you something to compare to.

I get codes read by my indie garage, its cheap compared to buying a diagnostics tool. However, if you're going to be monitoring stuff, having your own one becomes more attractive - so long as you know what you're looking for (hopefully from help here :D ).

Of the ones that don't cost a small fortune, it looks like the pScan is about the best, but then it looks to cost twice as much as something like an iCarsoft i930

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/freelander-1-diagnostics-what-actually-works.378679/
 
Have PM'd for email so that I can send photos.

What is wrong with this website. No pictures means we can't help people.

Also, it keeps putting in spare gaps when typing. Anyone else get this??
 
Have PM'd for email so that I can send photos.

What is wrong with this website. No pictures means we can't help people.

Also, it keeps putting in spare gaps when typing. Anyone else get this??
I do most browsing on my PC, so I can simply copy an image and paste it into the post.

On the phone though I haven't worked out a way.

If the pics are on an image storing/hosting service, you can usually put a link to it
 
Hi There what's your real name ?
The first thing you can do is drive round your local area, to the equivalent of originally going your your Tesco or a little more, and back home so the engine gets really hot, when you have pulled up on your drive, or outside your house turn the engine off as you did originally when you broke down, wait the same amount of time and see if the car starts, if not, then whip off the cam sensor, which is not hard, engine cover off which is three 8mm bolts.
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1

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once off you will see the plug to the cam sensor, you can see the wiring to it in the photo below, three wires, unplug it then use a 5mm socket to undo the small torx bolt, pull out the can sensor stick it in your freezer for ten minutes then re-fit it and see if the car starts, if it does then you have found your culprit.
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The cam shaft sensor off the car looks like the one in the photo below'
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5

Report back to us if you do the test above.
 
Thanks Arctic. Saved a trip to the workshop in the rain to take photos!!
I can't post photos on PC or phone. Must haf been bad boy !!
 
Hi there. I go by the name of Mudinuri and my name is David or Dave and thanks to all of you who have taken the effort to reply to my post and I hope to get a new Sensor as soon as possible and will then report back,
Cheers all..
 
Sorry but just one more thing.
I "ve looked up Camshaft Sensors on tinternet and Rimmers have a genuine one for £184 or a Aftermarket for £32.70. Which should I go for. I suppose common sense says the Genuine one but money is tight so are the after market ones any good???
 
I would start with diagnostic, and then the cheaper sensor.

On the subject of images, LZ currently seems to be blocking image attachments for all users, regardless of phone, tablet or PC. Personally I hate external image links because they disappear from old threads - hence making the thread less useful. Copy & paste does work, but you need to use the "More Options" button first or they take forever to paste into threads.
 

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