Nodge68
Well-Known Member
There's no pressure on the Fuel Pump inlet lines. The primer bulb is there to fill the filter after replacement. The FP will pull fuel from the tank when the engine is running.
There's no pressure on the Fuel Pump inlet lines. The primer bulb is there to fill the filter after replacement. The FP will pull fuel from the tank when the engine is running.
Stickystuff
Member
I think the mot ran out last year. It has been sat up since December, I’ll get a fresh mot on it when it’s running.
Well that remains to be seen, so far I’ve invested enough in buying the thing in the first place. It depends how much it now costs me to get it running.
Here’s a couple photos. The condition isn’t great but it’s workable.
It’s a start anyway.
When I got it running I’ll get it up on the ramp when it’s MOT’d and see how the rear diff fairs. My mate will MOT it for me so I’ll have a look then.
If it looks ok I’ll see about getting a prop shaft for it.
Well that remains to be seen, so far I’ve invested enough in buying the thing in the first place. It depends how much it now costs me to get it running.
Here’s a couple photos. The condition isn’t great but it’s workable.
It’s a start anyway.
When I got it running I’ll get it up on the ramp when it’s MOT’d and see how the rear diff fairs. My mate will MOT it for me so I’ll have a look then.
If it looks ok I’ll see about getting a prop shaft for it.
Stickystuff
Member
Well what I meant was all the fuel had drained back to the tank. Unless there’s a leak of some sort weather fuel or air even if it’s been sat up there should be some fluid already primed in those lines. I’ll try spend some time on it tonight and get an idea what I’m looking at
Stuart hall
Active Member
I think the mot ran out last year. It has been sat up since December, I’ll get a fresh mot on it when it’s running.
Well that remains to be seen, so far I’ve invested enough in buying the thing in the first place. It depends how much it now costs me to get it running.
Here’s a couple photos. The condition isn’t great but it’s workable.
It’s a start anyway.
When I got it running I’ll get it up on the ramp when it’s MOT’d and see how the rear diff fairs. My mate will MOT it for me so I’ll have a look then.
If it looks ok I’ll see about getting a prop shaft for it.
Looks good to me, did message you but god knows where it went lol.
EC Parts have another ! Sale on and a new battery is £51 delivered.
Mine car was completely free but as we all know there's no such thing as a free lunch lol .£££££
GrumpyGel
Well-Known Member
The priming bulb itself has (or should have) a non-return valve in it. If the system is primed properly, when you open the bleed screw on the filter and press the bulb, fuel should come out immediately. If pump it and just air comes out, then fuel has drained back to the tank. Once no air comes out and you close the bleed screw, the bulb should be firm.
I'm not sure if that is the exact/full priming procedure - as that will still leave air between filter and injectors. Dunno if that's fine and just turning it over will draw the fuel through. There will be a full procedure in the LR Rave workshop manual. Info on downloading that here...
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/rave-disk-maintenance-manual.260227/
I'm not sure if that is the exact/full priming procedure - as that will still leave air between filter and injectors. Dunno if that's fine and just turning it over will draw the fuel through. There will be a full procedure in the LR Rave workshop manual. Info on downloading that here...
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/rave-disk-maintenance-manual.260227/
Stickystuff
Member
Well the fuel definitely returns to the tank, and I’ve not been able to get the bulb to really go hard. I can keep pumping, it goes firm but not hard. I’ll need to figure that out but I suspect it’s got a leak of some sort however minor.
Well I checked that there’s fuel at the pump. I cracked off the bleed screw and pumped the bulb and it squirted out. Next I cracked each injector off in turn and cranked it for a few times each and all 4 have fuel coming out. My suspicion is the pump timing, or worse the cam timing.
Injector pump primed
Injectors primed
Checking the tension on the pump belt I feel like it’s not tight enough so I’m hoping that it’s jumped and got itself out of time. Easy enough to fix if that’s the case. I won’t be able to spend any more time on it until next week now though.
Does the crank lock from the flywheel side or the cam belt side? I best check the cam belt timing while I’m at it.
Well I checked that there’s fuel at the pump. I cracked off the bleed screw and pumped the bulb and it squirted out. Next I cracked each injector off in turn and cranked it for a few times each and all 4 have fuel coming out. My suspicion is the pump timing, or worse the cam timing.
Injector pump primed
Injectors primed
Checking the tension on the pump belt I feel like it’s not tight enough so I’m hoping that it’s jumped and got itself out of time. Easy enough to fix if that’s the case. I won’t be able to spend any more time on it until next week now though.
Does the crank lock from the flywheel side or the cam belt side? I best check the cam belt timing while I’m at it.
Stickystuff
Member
Well I think I managed to buzz some life back into the battery. I charged it on full whack for an hour or so(it got a little hot...oooops) then pulled the water caps off and left it on trickle charge for the rest of the day. Doing a drop test it held 9 volts for about 10-15 seconds before the handles became hot and it returned to 12. And after connecting back on the car it cranked over nicely for the 10-15 mins I was cranking it over(not constantly mind).
If I need a new battery I’ll have to get one but for now it works.
Stuart hall
Active Member
Great looks like your well on the way to bringing her back to life.
I agree would make sure timings spot on before you attempt starting just in case.
Might be worth your while to replace the belt while your there, just for peace of mind.
Have you considered if it was used on a farm etc it might have any old fuel in it ?
At least red or worse old chip fat etc !
If so with recent cold weather could have waxed up and blocked the system.
I wish you well and keep us all posted.
Just to add when timings sorted you could try a few squirts of start you b@tard it might draw the fuel through.
Stickystuff
Member
Well up on priming the pump etc it’s definitely got or had red diesel in it. The mot expired last April and it’s been as up since December so I suspect it’s been used off road for the months between then and it sitting up.
Once I’ve sorted the timing I’ll see if it will start. I’ve got a little brake cleaner that might help fire it up. But don’t worry I’ll only use a teeny squirt. I’ve had diesels pick up before on brake cleaner !!
Once I’ve sorted the timing I’ll see if it will start. I’ve got a little brake cleaner that might help fire it up. But don’t worry I’ll only use a teeny squirt. I’ve had diesels pick up before on brake cleaner !!
Stickystuff
Member
So I looked at the timing and it appears that from the last pump belt change that it’s timed up correctly but that’s from the paint makes they put not pinned. I looked at the pump wiring/plug and it looked ok. What is it that I’m looking for on this? I’ve not had chance to plug it in yet and see if there’s any sensors showing anything.
One question.... is the glow plug light supposed to turn on upon switching the ignition?
One question.... is the glow plug light supposed to turn on upon switching the ignition?
Stuart hall
Active Member
Yes on mine, perhaps your glow plugs aren't heating the fuel ?
GrumpyGel
Well-Known Member
Yes, the glow plug light should be illuminated for a few seconds when you turn the ignition on. However, you've got me thinking now whether it comes on when the engine is hot. Which makes me think that if the ECT was broke it might not turn the glow plugs on. The ECUs generally fall back to a "no fail" setting if the ECT is unplugged - so unplugging it would presumably always glow the plugs.
However, glow plugs failing isn't going to stop it 1/2 way across a field and you would expect some 1/2 hearted attempts to fire it up even if it won't start from cold.
The glow plugs are (presumably) controlled by the ECU/EDC, and it is that which sends the signal to the dash to illuminate the bulb - it may indicate the initial ECU fault problem if the plugs are not working. Various other reasons of course, down to a blown bulb or loose wiring connection.
However, glow plugs failing isn't going to stop it 1/2 way across a field and you would expect some 1/2 hearted attempts to fire it up even if it won't start from cold.
The glow plugs are (presumably) controlled by the ECU/EDC, and it is that which sends the signal to the dash to illuminate the bulb - it may indicate the initial ECU fault problem if the plugs are not working. Various other reasons of course, down to a blown bulb or loose wiring connection.
Stuart hall
Active Member
Yes mine illustrates even after a long run if I stop then immediately restart.
However as it rarely drops below 20 deg during the day here I don't think I need them here as often start phoebe from cold without waiting for the light to extinguish.
I literally put in key and she fires on first crank.
Stickystuff
Member
See I did think that the glow plug would light up even if it was hot.
What’s the ECT? I’m assuming your referring to engine temp?
I’m starting to think it might well be the ECU. Oh man I think I’ve bought a lemon!
Well I haven’t had a chance to plug it in and see what the sensors are telling me that’s if my diag can read it. I might be able to have a quick look tomorrow morning and see what’s going on.
Stuart hall
Active Member
Don't panic yet ! Very simple basic engine, should be good for 200000 miles.
Set up/check timing, attach good battery, give a squirt of easy/ brake cleaner she should at least cough/splutter. If she does you know its a fuel delivery problem.
The worst way if a lemon which I doubt, will easily get money back by selling parts etc.
Your lucky, this site is rammed with very knowledgeable guys who will advise you what to do next.
Stuart hall
Active Member
Just noticed re your photos of timing belt, is there a chunk missing on the left hand side of the pulley ?
Could be as you said it's jumped a few teeth.
What you think guys ?
Belt looks paper thin to me and I'd personally change it.
I've just enlarged your photo and you can clearly see the toothed belt isn't sitting in the channels ? ? ? ?
If you have fuel at the injectors then its very unlikely to be ECU. When you check the timing have a look at the air filter and piping, could be a blockage there. If a paper element gets wet parts of it can get sucked in and be a real nuisance to pull back out. As said above these are very good engines capable of a lot of miles, I had one in a Rover 600 that went off to the scrapyard with nearly 250k on it and it still ran perfectly and used no oil
Stuart hall
Active Member
I'd definitely be changing that belt if it was mine, not only because it looks old but seeing a piece missing out of the pulley makes me wonder about the skill of the person that was in there last. Same goes for the timing belt, if I don't have faith in the last person to do it then I will re-do it
