yella

New Member
i hope some one can help me(please). i have a 1991 200tdi and recently the clutch started to give me grief. first of all the pedal went to the floor but still operated the clutch so i thought it was the slave cylinder. then the clutch started to make a grinding sound when i pressed the pedal, i thought oops, time for a new clutch so out i went and got one,and a slave cylinder, and a master cylinder seal kit,and a new clutch fork. had it fitted by a local landie specialist(top man) and every thing was rosie. now , 2 weeks later the grinding noise is back.i aphoned the local man and he told me to take it in but he isnt sure what it could be, so i just wondered if anyone can help.
 
apart from the noise being back is it slipping? does it need a lot of push to be able to engage gear??
 
no, its not slipping but yes i have to push the pedal right to the floor to engage a gear
 
it does sound like its worn again..i take it you don't ride yer clutch so you need to find out if the adjustment is correct..
i'm assuming that yer garage dude would have told you if there was a problem with the hydralics when he changed the clutch.
one thing you could try is to get some one to pump the pedal while you watch for bubbles in the resovoir..reservoir (that looks better)
 
well he fitted new seals in the master cyl and put a new slave on but its like a grinding noise as if something is catching, you can feel it through the pedal but the clutch still works and there is no nose when driving along
 
i'd still check for bubbles in yer reservoir cos its real easy to catch a seal when your replacing them
 
have checked fr bubbles to no avail, but i have noticed it doesn't do it when the car is cold, only once i have been driving for 5-10 minutes. could it be a problem within the gearbox???
 
Sounds more like a release bearing or spigot bearing in the flywheel. The clutch pedal on a range rover has an eccentric bolt where it pushes the slave cylinder, you turn the bolt to adjust free play and pedal travel, don't know if it is the same on a disco . Might be worth a look.
 
yer maun just had a new clutch fitted ..i would have thought his mech. would have atleast check both and probelly fitted a new release bearing with the clutch.
 
from this distance and not having my klingon super vision working at the moment i'd tell you to get it warmed up then while someone else is pumpin yer crutch check in the resevoir for bibbles coming back up!! i wouldn"t thought it was in the g/box but it hard to say for certain from here
 
they are similar to bubbles..the main difference is that i thought you would know what i meant and i couldn't be arsed to go back and change it.
 
slob said:
yer maun just had a new clutch fitted ..i would have thought his mech. would have atleast check both and probelly fitted a new release bearing with the clutch.


Quite true, any decent self respecting owner will insist if the box is out change the lot and any decent self respecting mechanic will insist on the same. To cast no aspersions on anyone sometimes these things are not done, i was merely trying to help this chap with some diagnosis, having a teeny weeny bit of experience with Land Rovers in general myself. I cannot judge anybody elses know how or how good his mechanic is or his methodology. Having worked for a Scania main dealer i can tell you that under warranty Scania (a rather large successful company ) will only pay to have the driven plate replaced, let alone the pressure plate, spigot bearing or release bearing. Try taking out a truck gearbox knowing it will have to come out again soon because the pressure plate is worn but not cattled. Sorry slob if i tried to point out the obvious but nothing is foolproof because fools are so ingenious!
 
having worked for a large company that has branches all around the world and are at the moment cocentrating most of their work in the basra area.
we would have been wasting our time trying to screw more money from owners as we was the owners. our priority was to get vehicles moving and keep them moving so sometimes even if it didn't need replacing for a few thousand miles it would get done as it was best in the long run.
having only worked in the private area of vehicle repair for a short time( i got ****ed of with all the bollocks ) i can't say what they would or would not do. but i do know that most places will insist on replacing both plates and the bearing and any thing else they can think of just to turn a few bob more.
but as you say nowt is foolproof cos fools are so ingenious. i once seen a driver try to install a battery the wrong way round using a lump hammer to put the narrow terminal on the big post, then using the same hammer to knock a nail into the gap between the big terminal and the small post.
 
I fixed Rovers for the RAF for 15 years and even came across Land Rover saying 'officially' they cannot make and i quote " a soldier proof engine". I agree entirely about changing parts even if they have some life left, seen so many false economies which you know are going to come back and bite you on the a**e even though thats what the customer asked for. Rememeber all the p's. Prior planning and preparation prevent **** poor performance.
Anyway hope matey gets his motor sorted.
 
yes it seems the thrust washer on the crank has fell off, into the sump. the disco is in the garage at the minute being repaired (alledgedly);)
 
Hi

I just found bits of bronze/brass from what I think is my crankshaft thrust washer in my sump after seeing brass/bronze bits in oil drain pan.

What did they do to fix your's was thrust washer easy to replace, had it done any further damage.

Reason I ask is I'm now staring down the same barrell, nice to know before I committ lots of ££.

regards

Mingdiesel
1991 200tdi
 

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