L

Landyfella

Active Member
I am restoring a 75 series 3 2.25 petrol and have a problem starting. It was working before I started dismantling the panels for paint. DOH!

I am getting 12v to the + side of the coil from the ignition.
I have changed the coil, but the problem occurred before changing it.
also a new solenoid
I haven't touch the points or dizzy, but they look fairly new and again worked before.
I would appreciate any ideas.
 
Have you taken a spark plug out and turned the engine over to see if there is a spark? If there is and its sparking at the right time, you need to see if there is any fuel getting through, a wet plug will tell you this. Also check to make sure all the HT leads are connected securely.

Col
 
Are the plug leads on in the right order and right place? Have you had the dizzy out? If so did you put it back the right way round? It can be 180 degrees out.
 
thanks all. Yes fuel getting to carb. Plugs in correct order. No spark when turning over engine. I did replace the plugs so may put old ones back in. TBH i didn’t check the gaps so could be that. I’ll take a look at the points gap.
Also invested in an in-line ignition/spark plug tester. So will try that tomorrow.
Thanks for all the advice.
 
I'd be looking at the points gap first.
You have power to the coil and a wire from negative to one side of the points and earth on the other side.
When the points are closed, the coil energises and as the points open, the field collapses and make spark at the HT connection. If you put a plug in the end of the ht lead you can check for a spark at that point
 
[QUOTE="Landyfella, post: 5099629, member: 165488"
Also invested in an in-line ignition/spark plug tester. So will try that tomorrow.
[/QUOTE]
Something like one of these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/IN-LINE-...524739?hash=item4db219eac3:g:T0kAAOSwvqde12hU ?

I would certainly recommend one. I used one when trying to get my engine running again, and really helped prove I was getting sparks at the right time. One of those things you use once or twice, but really helpful.

As to the cause...if your coil is good, it does suggest your points aren't working correctly. Might be dirty or welded shut, or the condenser has failed (very common). A multimeter/DVM on the 'other' coil terminal (the one to the points) when turning your engine over very slowly, should see it bounce between 12V and 0V (twice per engine revolution). If it's stuck at one level, that's the problem.
 
Have you checked the earth terminal for the coil, you say you have been removing panels you may have disturbed a connection somewhere.
 
Landyfella said:
how should the coil be earthed? Through the mounting bracket?
Click to expand...
Yes, there is no separate earth, one wire from the coils spade terminal goes to the ignition switch and the other terminal goes to the contact breaker points in the distributer. Sometimes, one or both of these wires can break somewhere and cause an intermittent fault.

Col
 
That's a good question. I thought the only connection to ground that the coil needed, was via the points. Certainly won't do any harm to ensure the coil body is earthed, but I'm not entirely sure it's actually needed.
 
definitely no need for a coil body to be earthed but its a good idea for the coil LT contacts to be wired correctly. if its been converted from +ve to -ve earth, then the connections should be swapped
 
It's not unknown for coils to develop an intermittent fault, usually when they get warm. Coils are not expensive and if it is the original I would recommend getting a new one but get the right one. For the price, it's always worth having a spare.

Col
 
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