C

Ceprice

Member
Hi Guys,

New to this to please bear with me and not mechanically minded.

Bought a 2000 Disco 2 TD5 and it's been in for repairs already.

Since then I've notice the car has no guts and won't rev over 2500 rpm when either cold or warm.

Tried Reving in neutral and still the same issue.

Checked the red ECR plug this morning and it's got a bit of oil in it but nothing major. All been cleaned with contact cleaner & put back together. Will let mechanic know it's due for replacement loom when its back in on Tuesday.

Taken it for a spin after cleaning ECR but still having the same issues.

Disconnected the MAF sensor and took it for a spin with no noticed improvement either.

I'm completely lost. If I can narrow it down to possible causes I'm hoping it saves me a ton in labour charges for mechanic to poke around.

I should point out it's also got a loud whirring noise from front Passenger on accelerating. Noise goes when coasting but very prominent once you hit the accelerator.

To top it all off there also seems to be air in the cooling system as there's a sloshing sound behind the dash when you turn the engine over and turning corners etc. from what I've read this is a common problem with the issue being that the outlet valve is located on the bottom of the heater matrix so when air rises you can't get it out.

My main concern being the lack of guts. When stationary at a junction or roundabout it really struggles to hit 20kph and will rev to 2500 and nothing much happens. It eventually kicks in and will get upto speed usually once I've sworn at it a few times and hammered the accelerator with my foot. Something seems lacking.

Any suggestions where to point the mechanic or what to look for??

Thanks heaps!

E
 
hi

if u don't mind me saying, is always nice u popping over into the introduction section first to say hi ;);)
 
Hi Ceprice,

A similar thing was discussed just this week. If you look im the Disco section you may find it, plus their is a link to a youtube vid that shows how to bypass the wastegate modulator and the little pipes gpoing to it. One other thing is to check all your turbo pipes for looseness and splits.

Cheers
 
Thanks heaps mate, just in the process of finding my way around the site. Will have a look.

I've heard there's a lot of issues with sticky wastegate etc but have no idea where it is or what it looks like, back to YouTube for me haha.


neilly said:
Hi Ceprice,

A similar thing was discussed just this week. If you look im the Disco section you may find it, plus their is a link to a youtube vid that shows how to bypass the wastegate modulator and the little pipes gpoing to it. One other thing is to check all your turbo pipes for looseness and splits.

Cheers
Click to expand...
s
 
Does not look like it. I cannot check at the moment. But I did incude the link in the post I mentioned above. Cheers
 
Ceprice said:
Hi Guys,

New to this to please bear with me and not mechanically minded.

Bought a 2000 Disco 2 TD5 and it's been in for repairs already.

Since then I've notice the car has no guts and won't rev over 2500 rpm when either cold or warm.

Tried Reving in neutral and still the same issue.

Checked the red ECR plug this morning and it's got a bit of oil in it but nothing major. All been cleaned with contact cleaner & put back together. Will let mechanic know it's due for replacement loom when its back in on Tuesday.

Taken it for a spin after cleaning ECR but still having the same issues.

Disconnected the MAF sensor and took it for a spin with no noticed improvement either.

I'm completely lost. If I can narrow it down to possible causes I'm hoping it saves me a ton in labour charges for mechanic to poke around.

I should point out it's also got a loud whirring noise from front Passenger on accelerating. Noise goes when coasting but very prominent once you hit the accelerator.

To top it all off there also seems to be air in the cooling system as there's a sloshing sound behind the dash when you turn the engine over and turning corners etc. from what I've read this is a common problem with the issue being that the outlet valve is located on the bottom of the heater matrix so when air rises you can't get it out.

My main concern being the lack of guts. When stationary at a junction or roundabout it really struggles to hit 20kph and will rev to 2500 and nothing much happens. It eventually kicks in and will get upto speed usually once I've sworn at it a few times and hammered the accelerator with my foot. Something seems lacking.

Any suggestions where to point the mechanic or what to look for??

Thanks heaps!

E
Click to expand...

its a 2000 so not exactly brand new

i was more focusing that on even the engine wont rev past 2500 rpm even in neutral this is with out an engine load
this could be an over boost issue once after a drive (waste gate issue ) to test pull open the waste gate and lock off with vise grips jam open the waste gate
the engine in neutral with a jammed open waste gate the engine should rev freely and reach over 2500 rpm this then also rules out over boost

or possible fuel delivery / an intermittent power supply to the fuel pump ....
 
Last edited:
Thanks, I can hear the fuel pump start up and when I turn the ignition off I can hear it power down within a few seconds so I don't think the fuel pump is on the way out.

I'll check the wastegate and see if there's any improvement.

Cheers

ozzyboydeano said:
its a 2000 so not exactly brand new

i was more focusing that on even the engine wont rev past 2500 rpm even in neutral this is with out an engine load
this could be an over boost issue once after a drive (waste gate issue ) to test pull open the waste gate and lock off with vise grips jam open the waste gate
the engine in neutral with a jammed open waste gate the engine should rev freely and reach over 2500 rpm this then also rules out over boost

or possible fuel delivery / an intermittent power supply to the fuel pump .... here is a vid i did with the fuel pump fuse and relay disconnected 2500 and 3000 rpm seems to be the limit




/

however just wondering why is your speedo in KPH ? as i once had a member try to correct and tell me to post in MPH not KPH https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/comparing-tc-lock-up-to-others-disco-2.317120/
Click to expand...

ka
 
Ceprice said:
Thanks, I can hear the fuel pump start up and when I turn the ignition off I can hear it power down within a few seconds so I don't think the fuel pump is on the way out.

I'll check the wastegate and see if there's any improvement.

Cheers


ka
Click to expand...


the fuel pump pressure is instant the moment the ignition is turned on ...and fuel pump stops intantly the moment the key is turned off

so unless you do hear the fuel pump located inside the fuel tank wind down for a few seconds ..yes this could be a fuel pump or fuel supply issue
 
Last edited:
Awesome well in that case it's possibly f***ed with whatever else is wrong hahahha.

i wanted a pug wife wanted a Great Dane, so I compromised and got a Great Dane.....

Wife wanted a Landy, I compromised and got a Landy

Neither turned out well hahah
 
Ceprice said:
Awesome well in that case it's possibly f***ed with whatever else is wrong hahahha.

i wanted a pug wife wanted a Great Dane, so I compromised and got a Great Dane.....

Wife wanted a Landy, I compromised and got a Landy

Neither turned out well hahah
Click to expand...
its not F33ked yet
if it is a fuel supply or a turbo issue these things can be easily fixed
you need to run some tests maybe even some preasure reading s ...fixing the issue is the easiest part
 
I'm supposed to be towing a caravan Wednesday morning 9 hour trip, how'd you reckon it would cope? Tare is 1080kg max revs we get is 2500. Doable?

It eventually gets to speed as long as it's a gentle acceleration and you're in no hurry, which considering the weight of the van we would be doing just under posted speed limit.
 
Ceprice said:
I'm supposed to be towing a caravan Wednesday morning 9 hour trip, how'd you reckon it would cope? Tare is 1080kg max revs we get is 2500. Doable?

It eventually gets to speed as long as it's a gentle acceleration and you're in no hurry, which considering the weight of the van we would be doing just under posted speed limit.
Click to expand...
the whirring noise could be a boost leak either a boost hose or maybe a split intercooler
to be honest I would be not going far towing if you are only managing 2500 rpm with out a load even in neutral
myself when towing I normally use the low down torque of the engine
although a 1ton caravan should not make the td5 engine sweat but it will if the engine is lacking performance

just becarfull lugging the engine to low as the stock temp gauge is useless

this is why I would suggest getting the issue fixed so the engine can rev freely

I was going to suggest also see if any one in Yorkshire has a scan tool nearby that maybe able to scan for any logged faults or sensor values and run a injector test but your location has changed to Queensland

in the meantime you can perform some self checks and basics ..like air induction like a blocked air cleaner or a fatigued air intake pipe or a clogged exhaust clean all sensors ..pressurise intercooler

fuel pressure mechanical gauge
boost pressure mechanical gauge

ps is this an auto or manual
 
gstuart said:
was this the one, see if this helps @Ceprice

Click to expand...

:confused: the only problem is that the guy who made the video doesnt know that the wastegate port doesnt have a spring so it's not supposed to move back alone while it's not attached to the actuator also that the Td5's actuator is not "vacuum actuator" as he stated at the beginning of the video at 0.30 cos no vacuum is involved there.

in most cases wastegate issues are caused by the actuator not by the mechanical port cos the actuator valve becomes sticky due to internal corrosion and wear
 
Ceprice said:
Hi Guys,

New to this to please bear with me and not mechanically minded.

Bought a 2000 Disco 2 TD5 and it's been in for repairs already.

Since then I've notice the car has no guts and won't rev over 2500 rpm when either cold or warm.

Tried Reving in neutral and still the same issue.

Checked the red ECR plug this morning and it's got a bit of oil in it but nothing major. All been cleaned with contact cleaner & put back together. Will let mechanic know it's due for replacement loom when its back in on Tuesday.

Taken it for a spin after cleaning ECR but still having the same issues.

Disconnected the MAF sensor and took it for a spin with no noticed improvement either.

I'm completely lost. If I can narrow it down to possible causes I'm hoping it saves me a ton in labour charges for mechanic to poke around.

I should point out it's also got a loud whirring noise from front Passenger on accelerating. Noise goes when coasting but very prominent once you hit the accelerator.

To top it all off there also seems to be air in the cooling system as there's a sloshing sound behind the dash when you turn the engine over and turning corners etc. from what I've read this is a common problem with the issue being that the outlet valve is located on the bottom of the heater matrix so when air rises you can't get it out.

My main concern being the lack of guts. When stationary at a junction or roundabout it really struggles to hit 20kph and will rev to 2500 and nothing much happens. It eventually kicks in and will get upto speed usually once I've sworn at it a few times and hammered the accelerator with my foot. Something seems lacking.

Any suggestions where to point the mechanic or what to look for??

Thanks heaps!

E
Click to expand...
It sounds very like a problem I had last year with mine, after trying all the other stuff,wastegate, etc etc it was the in tank fuel pump not working right,simple replacement and full power restored
 
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