Hi All,
This is not so much a question as I think I’ve pretty much had it diagnosed by way of elimination. It’s more of this happened and….
Anyway away in North Wales for my birthday and my FL1 gave me about 30 minutes notice of refusing to let me select any gear, before flatly refusing at all. When we eventually came to a stop after luckily coasting down a hill into Nefyn I noticed some fluid on the road and big patch of same on the undertray. There was no grinding of gears, just a worsening of the ability to select a heart that was initially solved by pulling up the clutch pedal with my foot but eventually the clutch pedal just went floppy. Apparently the symptoms are a slave cylinder that thrown in its towel. Any road RAC took us back to the cottage and are taking us all back home tomorrow ( we were due home tomorrow). We waited in the lovely Nonharon Arms hotel with a coffee sorely tempted by their Sunday carvery but resisted ( we’ll have just started to tuck in when the “were here” text landed to ruin things even more). So I’ll ask a question or two anyway after reading some relevant threads on LZ: assuming it’s the slave cylinder what’s your view on progressing - replace it, the master and the clutch? Is it necessary to do all, or is it a sensible precaution for the future? The all important question - estimates of how much bearing in mind its being recovered to LR specialist two miles from home.
It’s 06 and 156k miles.
Your sympathy and opinions would be greatly appreciated.
Regards,
Michael.

Bugger.

Always best to break down at a nice place though.

In my much younger days me and my mates were heading down to Camber Sands for the day when the Spartan popped 3 studs on a wheel. Luckily I managed to stop before the last 1 went.

Happened right outside an Oast house cafe, so coffee and cake while we waited for the RAC recovery.

Nice brekkie at nefyn golf club

MaxTheDog1 said:

Hi All,
Apparently the symptoms are a slave cylinder that thrown in its towel. Any road RAC took us back to the cottage and are taking us all back home tomorrow ( we were due home tomorrow). We waited in the lovely Nonharon Arms hotel with a coffee sorely tempted by their Sunday carvery but resisted ( we’ll have just started to tuck in when the “were here” text landed to ruin things even more). So I’ll ask a question or two anyway after reading some relevant threads on LZ: assuming it’s the slave cylinder what’s your view on progressing - replace it, the master and the clutch? Is it necessary to do all, or is it a sensible precaution for the future? The all important question - estimates of how much bearing in mind its being recovered to LR specialist two miles from home.
It’s 06 and 156k miles.
Your sympathy and opinions would be greatly appreciated.
Regards,
Michael.

Click to expand...

Yes, it'll be the concentric slave cylinder, sadly.
Unfortunately not cheap. There's no point in just fitting a new slave, as the box has to come off, so you might as well have a complete new clutch assembly fitted. That will often mean a new flywheel is needed, it could even be the flywheel that has caused the concentric failure, so it's best to have a new flywheel too. This all adds up to a substantial amount of money, and any decent garage won't fit cheap parts, so you'll be looking at probably over £1k for the job.
You can save a lot by doing the work yourself, if you are a keen DIYer, if not leave it to the professionals.

As anyone ever used this guy below in the video Williams Mobile Clutch Service?

35minutes into the video is an FL1 1.8 clutch.


2005 TD4 FL1 clutch.


This is a 2009 TD4 Fl2 clutch.


2011 TD4 2.2 FL2 clutch.

Nope - but watching one with interest!

Thanks GG. Yes indeedy. Every cloud an’ that…
J_D. We were staying in Degenwy, so we and it were recovered back there. The FL is going into secure storage to be recovered back to my mechanic in “the next 3-5 working days “.

Nodge, ouch, yes much gnashing of teeth and sucking noises expected. We’ll see exactly what it requires but I’m happy to do other jobs while the ‘box is out for future proofing. Incidentally it’s booked in next not for a new back box and hydraulic fluids and coolant change. It’s waaay beyond my expertise is this….So I’m mentally getting ready for a gut punch!

I’m very much a novice in this ‘vehicle recovery’ malarkey. It’s the first time I’ve had to use one since I passed my test in 1981! Whether it’s my bad luck or just the low level of organisation I can’t say it’s been a blast. Ended up being given a hire car to get us home while the FL slowly makes its way across the Pennines.

Arctic.
Interesting but I’ve really nowhere for someone to do that at my gaff.
Thanks as ever to you all who took the time to reply.
Updates as and when…
Regards,
Michael

Arctic2 said:

As anyone ever used this guy below in the video Williams Mobile Clutch Service?

35minutes into the video is an FL1 1.8 clutch.


2005 TD4 FL1 clutch.


This is a 2009 TD4 Fl2 clutch.


2011 TD4 2.2 FL2 clutch.

Click to expand...

Ok - just watched the ‘09 FL2 video. The guy has clearly done plenty of them, but the way he is just throwing the bolts on the floor here, there and everywhere leaves me wary. What does he do when he cant find one of them?
I’m sure they are much cheaper than most due to no overheads for premises etc., but that looks a bit too ‘fly by night’ for me. It’s like a DIY’er in a rush, that you are going to pay.

Oh, and if you have an issue after, be prepared for a wait under warranty…

Not for me (if they did my area). If you are going to the expenses of doing the clutch, and you are paying for someone to do it, I’d want a bit more peace of mind that the job is going to be done correctly.

Freddie17 said:

Ok - just watched the ‘09 FL2 video. The guy has clearly done plenty of them, but the way he is just throwing the bolts on the floor here, there and everywhere leaves me wary. What does he do when he cant find one of them?
I’m sure they are much cheaper than most due to no overheads for premises etc., but that looks a bit too ‘fly by night’ for me. It’s like a DIY’er in a rush, that you are going to pay.

Oh, and if you have an issue after, be prepared for a wait under warranty…

Not for me (if they did my area). If you are going to the expenses of doing the clutch, and you are paying for someone to do it, I’d want a bit more peace of mind that the job is going to be done correctly.


View attachment 330307

Click to expand...

Hi Freddie.
Now you have pointed out the small print like you I'm afraid he would be given a wide birth on my cars, I would either carry the job out myself if i was up to it, if not then i would trust a company I've used in the past on my R40 FL1 and quite local.

The video does show though what to expect if you are thinking of under taking the job yourself and how much work is involved.

Arctic2 said:

Hi Freddie.
Now you have pointed out the small print like you I'm afraid he would be given a wide birth on my cars, I would either carry the job out myself if i was up to it, if not then i would trust a company I've used in the past on my R40 FL1 and quite local.

The video does show though what to expect if you are thinking of under taking the job yourself and how much work is involved.

Click to expand...

Yes - it is a very good video for seeing the job at a diy level.

Thanks to all for your replies and info, vids etc.
Apparently the FL will be delivered today at my usual LR mechanic so hopefully I’ll soon have a diagnosis!
Nodge, as the DMF is the most expensive part how would it be determined that it should be replaced, and would you change it irrespective? I’ve seen the price anywhere from around £400 to a LUK one at £695 at AF.
Cheers,
Michael.

MaxTheDog1 said:

Thanks to all for your replies and info, vids etc.
Apparently the FL will be delivered today at my usual LR mechanic so hopefully I’ll soon have a diagnosis!
Nodge, as the DMF is the most expensive part how would it be determined that it should be replaced, and would you change it irrespective? I’ve seen the price anywhere from around £400 to a LUK one at £695 at AF.
Cheers,
Michael.

Click to expand...

I believe the mechanic should be able to tell if the DMF needs replacing when the gearbox is out according to how loose it is but some will replace them every time. My theory is they should be good for 200k miles so if yours has done 150k or more it should probably be replaced regardless. Last time I replaced a clutch I didn't bother changing it as it had only done 120k and I felt the DMF wasn't slack enough to warrant it. The clutch was fine for a couple more years until I ripped it out and EV'd it.

Thanks Alibro for your input. I will be changing the entire guts in the bell housing - at the very least it’ll be a good selling point for quite a while, and peace of mind for me in the meantime. I’ve managed to find a LUK DMF for £449 here:
Also AF sell their LUK for £695 here:
Obviously these are prices to me as Mr. J. Public.
Why the big discrepancy? AF has a 3 year warranty, DLS 1 year presumably.
I’ll go see the mechanic tomorrow and have a proper discussion, we’ve only briefly spoke about it actually being the CSC that’s failed.